Oil change on my 2005 V50 T5 AWD (w/ pics) by m4gician

5 minute read

Oil change on my 2005 V50 T5 AWD (w/ pics)

Compliments of m4gician @ swedespeed.com

7-8-2010

Hey guys,

This board has been a great resource for me already. I found the two other write-ups on oil changes, as well as the instructions in VADIS (vague as hell), so I finally got the tools I needed to do this and I got it done. I went with a full synthetic set-up, and while we could debate to death the oils, I went from dino to Castrol Syntec (as per volvo recommendations...lol) 0w30 as it's the cheapest, and only Group IV basestock I can easily get my hands on.

Tools I used:

• 10 mm socket -- for removing skid guard (7 bolts)
• 8 mm socket -- for removing the Airbox piping near the oil filter
• 17mm socket -- for the drain plug
• 36mm socket -- for the oil filter (~$10)
• 1/2' swivel socket -- for 36mm socket and oil filter
• 10' 1/2' drive extension -- for connecting to swivel to remove oil filter
• Volvo/OEM oil filter -- part number 8692305
• Drainplug gasket (should come with the filter)
• Shop rags to absorb oil
• Oil bucket or similar
• 6L (5.8L capacity) of the Oil of your choice -- I went with Castrol Syntec 0w30

Step 1: instead of jacking the car up (i only have one jack), I moved the car up some ramps, blocked the rear tires with other tires, and engaged the parking brake. Here's a pic after I've removed the 7x10mm bolts holding the skid plate. You'll see it off to the side.

Step 2: I located the drain plug, attached a 17mm socket to my torque wrench (yes, for more leverage) and loosened it. Once loose, you remove the bolt by hand. Be careful, this plug is not a magnetic plug and the oil is very hot (or should be very warm if you've warmed up the car first). I let the oil drain completely, but I did remove the oil filter while the oil was draining.

a better shot of the plug

Step 3: Now the "hard" part, changing the oil filter which really isn't hard, it's just that you will need the 36mm socket, a swivel and the extension. I'm also assuming you have a ratchet or torque wrench to use. Now, it's not on tight so take it easy, it'll unscrew easily.

Step 4: Reinstall new oil filter, replace gasket, lube case with some drops of the oil oil. 

remove gasket

install new gasket, and lube it up with some of your old oil. Just dip your finger in some oil, and rub it on the gasket

put it together

retorque to 25+5 nm (or like 25 ft/lbs -- it's tighter, but it won't tighten anymore). Do NOT tighten it too much. I can't stress that enough.

Step 5: reinstall drainplug, pour in 5.5 - 5.8 L of oil

oil

and just a tid bit, the reason I know this oil (and BITOG) knows that it's a full Euro Spec group iv synthetic: "Made in Germany"

Step 6: reinstall the skid guard, lower car off ramps, start car, turn off car and check oil level. Add if needed. Please check on a level surface. 

Step 7: Reset service indicator. Hold trip computer knob with key off, then move from position 1 to position 2. Orange "i" will blink once successful.

Sorry I didn't get more pics, but when I was in the thick of it, I forgot. The total thing took me 2.5 hours. Long? Sure, it was my first time, and I wanted to make sure I didn't break or lose anything. Lots of the time was taken in setting up the ramps, and reinstalling the skid guard. Also, I forgot to mention that it was 40 degrees with the humidity (like 100 F). Also, disposing of all of the oil, putting away my tools, and changing out of my oily/dirty clothes.

Hope you enjoy guys.