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6 minute read
How to Change Front Brakes (Pads and Rotors)
Compliments of LoadedTaco @ www.tacomaworld.com
11-24-2014
I created a write-up with a video in case anyone is thinking about learning how to change their own front brakes. I am currently trying to grow my Youtube channel so if this is useful, please like the video, subscribe to my channel, and maybe click the ads that pop up. It really helps me a lot!
Link to My write-up on Google Drive (Here)
Changing the brake pads on a 05+ Tacoma.
Tools & Materials Used:
- Floor Jack
- 2 Jack Stands
- Wheel Chock
- 3/8” Drive Ratchet
- Sockets (17mm, 12mm)
- Needle Nose Pliers
- Torque Wrench
- Sledge Hammer- Impact Wrench
- Impact Sockets (17mm, 12mm, 3/4”)
- Caliper Piston Press ($18.99 Ebay)
- Silicone Paste (Used on Caliper Pins)
- Brake Lube (3M Copper Anti-seize)-
- Breaker Bar
If you have any reason to look at 1-6 stop and get help from someone.
1) Park on flat ground
2) Brake lugs loose
3) Apply Parking brake/chock the wheels
4) Jack up the truck
5) Support the truck with jack stands
6) Remove front Wheel(s)
7) Spray Brakes with brake cleaner and let dry.
8) Remove cap from Brake Fluid reservoir
9) Pull the cotter pins that hold the caliper pins. (Save if you don’t have replacements)
10) Pull Caliper Pins that the pads slide on.
a.These can be difficult to remove if they are rusted.
b. Try tapping them with a hammer.
11) Remove the pad retainer clip (Kind of looks like a w) (Save if you don’t have replacement)
OPTIONAL STEPS 12-14, 16-17 : Some people say that it can be bad to push the pistons back without opening the bleeder valve because it can damage the ABS. If you are one of these people then do the following. One reason you may not want to do this is because you can introduce air into the brake system. If you do then you will need to bleed the brakes.
12)--PART OF OPTIONAL STEPS-- Clamp soft brake line being careful not to damage the line.
13)--PART OF OPTIONAL STEPS-- Attach hose to bleeder nipple
14)--PART OF OPTIONAL STEPS-- Open Bleeder valve
15) Push Pads back using
a. Big Screw Driver, Pry Bar, wedge of some kind between old pad and
rotor. Be careful not to damage the rotor.
b. Brake piston separator tool like one used in the video. ($18.99 Ebay)
NOTE: Once you push back one side you will need to prevent it from coming out while you push the other side.
16) --PART OF OPTIONAL STEPS-- Close bleeder valve
17) --PART OF OPTIONAL STEPS-- Unclamp brake line
18) Now you can remove the old pads. Note which side they came out of. Typically the the metal warning strip will be on the inside pad. Make sure you match up your new pads with the old pads.
Rotor Removal and Replacement
19) First you will want to unbolt the clip on your spindle that holds your the hard brake lines to the soft brake lines. 12 MM
20) Loosen the two bolts that hold on the caliper.
21) Remove the bottom bolt first.
22) Remove the top bolt **be aware that the caliper will now be loose.**
Don’t let the caliper hang as it could damage the lines.
23) With the caliper out of the way you can remove the rotor.
a. It can be really difficult to remove these and some slight persuasion with
a hammer between the studs can help. ***Do not hit the studs***
b. If that doesn’t work you can thread two bolts into the rotor. Once they
are both loosely in begin tightening them a little at a time. Switching
between each bolt until it pops off.
c. You can also hit the rotor from the back like I did in the video.
24) Before you install your new rotor it is a good idea to clean the rotor surface with brake cleaner. Most rotors come with a coating to prevent rust.
25) Put on your new rotors
26) Bolt the caliper back on. (80 ft. labs for 2WD and 91 ft. lbs. for 4WD)
Installing Pads
27) Properly Lubricate the correct parts of new pads with a brake lubricant. **Warning** Do not use regular grease!
a. Back of pads
b. Sides (Pieces where the pads slides on besides the pins)
c. ***Warning*** Do not apply any lubricant to the pads themselves
28) Insert new pads & try your best to line up the holes where the pins will slide through.
a. Orient the new pads the same way the old ones were installed.
b. When in doubt metal warning clip goes on the inside leading edge of the
rotor.
29) Lubricate top pin with silicone paste. It is even more important to use silicone paste on floating calipers that have the internal sliding pins.
30) insert the pin into the top pin location and insert the cotter pin.
31) Insert the pad retainer clip
32) Lubricate bottom pin with silicone paste and insert the pin into the bottom holes through the new pads and retainer clip. Replace cotter pin.
33) Turn your vehicle to the on position and pump your brakes. They should get firm.
a. If they don't get firm you probably did the optional steps incorrectly and
now need to bleed the brakes… It takes a couple of min if you have the
right stuff or a friend.
34) Replace brake line bracket. 12 mm Socket
35) Repeat all previous steps on other side.
36) Once you are done check brake fluid level.
a. Chances are it will be higher than when you began because your brake
pistons are all pushed in requiring less fluid to activate the calipers.
37) Put your tires back on and lower the vehicle safely.
38) In a safe area go test your brakes.* (Make sure you completed step 33 before putting the truck in gear)
a. If it feels squishy there is probably air in the brakes and you need to
bleed the brakes.
39) Bedding-in new pads properly.
a. All pad companies have different recommendations. Typically they say
go easy on them for the first 300-400 miles. More important with new
pads.