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42 minute(s) of a 106 minute read
4-5-2013
Thanks fellas....as Dan said the stock pump should be sufficient for stock and slightly modified builds...my pump has a Toda pump gear in it which greatly reduces high speed/high rpm failure...also has a different springs setup which increases the oil pressure in the engine...my engine will be a 10000 rpm setup but wont spend all its time in that level like the formula atlantic race engines so I decided to stick with the wetsump setup for now....
4-6-2013
key to any good engine is the head fellas....u need a good flowing head to make good numbers....bottom end is just part of the equation....i see alot of guys build their block up but dont do anything to the heads and thats fine and dandy for turbo setups but in N/A u need to concentrate more on the head then the block...cams are good but u need to open to ports so the engine can breathe better since u gave it the tools to do so....valves, port jobs, valve jobs...velocity stacks and headers all work hand in hand....once u got that then u can bump compression, bore out for more displacement......u wont get the full potential of a built bottom end without a built head...so instead of dumping 1-2 grand in the block use that for the head...
4-8-2013
Cnc porting is cool in the aspect that its consistant in making the same numbers but who is to say its a good cnc design? Without any numbers of what their head makes over lets say stock with the same cams 3500 is a little to much to take someones word for...!
Duece that rod is a N2 adjustable pan hard support rod...got it from japan.
4-28-2013
Since Moto recovered the old club4ag Im going to post stuff from my old blog here....some might be repetitive but I will try to edit as much as i can.
Well after a 4 or 5 year absence I finally came back full circle to one of my favorite hobbies of all time....spending all my money and time on one of the first cars I had as a teen way back in the late 80s early 90s. For those of you who dont know me Im Tony...aka Jspec Performance for the old school member aka gaijin_rokurunner which was one of my alias's from back in the day when Moto first started this site.
some pictures of my old cars...
Okinawa 1997
washington DC 2009
same car as above after TMO brought all my JDM parts
After parting out the above car in about 2000-2001 my original good line bumper found a new owner and went down into history on the Paradise Racing AE86 nice bumper lol
Around 2002 I bought this from a friend I sold the yellow car above in Okinawa to years earlier. This car actually got upgraded with a TRD wide body kit, some very deep watanabes and a pair of "real" red bride bucket seats i had stashed from when i was in japan. Crazy what 10 cases of beer can get you in okinawa lol
there was a few cars after this I dont have pictures of one was a RHD original sprinter. I think i have a picture of it somewhere will upload it later and this car you can view the link below http://forums.club4ag.com/zero...=8947
two years later I finish my Levin clone and this is how it turned out
anyhow las year I was looking for a commuter car and had about 4g to spare....never in a million years would i have thought I would be buying another ae86...but it was calling me like that ring called gollum from lord of the rings...."tony my preciousness" lol quick view of club4ag and holy crap local maryland resident selling a 1985 coupe for 3800 bucks...i couldn't resist...and so it began
3800 bucks got me this car which had zero rust thanks to the owner doing a full restoration including replacing of cancerous metal, brand new greedy coil overs (1800 bucks alone), sparco buckets which i wasn't a fan of, carbon hood, zenki front bumper with brackets and lights all original but had a fiberglass zenki lip molded to it...not bad but i would of a preferred factory lip but beggars can't be chosers, complete interior and stock engine besides the air filter. This car had no options except power steering, no a/c, power windows, sunroof, and no LSD. Not bad for the price in my book.
Car needed some minor work like brakes so instead of just doing an oem replacement I opted for the rx7 big brake setup since I knew big mods was coming down the pipe. I have some brake pictures somewhere but needed some bigger rims to fit the setup the 14s above just weren't cutting it....sooooo i got some bootleg hiyashi streets off ebay i know i know before i get flamed I needed something fast and cheap and these were the best bang for the buck at the time. 15x8 and 15x9 0 offset....still required some shaving of the calipers to fit but ended up looking pretty good for 500 bucks
Ok brakes done, rears rebuilt and given some project mu upgrades, all brake lines upgraded to steel braided....im good to go. About this same time Ronny out in cali decided to part his avocado hatchback and the credit cards started to burn up. Wasn't sure what engine i was going to swap in but Ronny had some rare and hard to find parts so I bought his 4.77 kouki TRD pumpkin and his silk road 20v header....guess a 20v it will be. Always wanted to do a 20v swap i done just about everything else, turbo, supercharged, N/A and the only person at the time I left the AE86 scene who had done it was Moto. Anyhow once the LSD arrived i decided to rebuild the full rear end and not just do a half ass job...
Removed the rear, sanded it and put a coating of por15 on it...warning this crap is very messy and if you get it on your skin you will wear it until your skin decided to shed a layer of skin. Came out pretty good...inside had 25 years of crud in it which i power washed out and whipped clean with about 2 bags of shop bags. I think the old diff probably shaded about albs of metal shavings over its life time as that diff was full of metal. called my old buddy alex up at BV and he sent me over a 4 link and lateral rod, toyota provided all the new seals and bearings, obtained a set of kouki axels from the forum, forgot from who but they were pretty cheap and i would need them since the LSD i got from Ronny was kouki. Changed the bearings, seals, breather, drain and fill plugs and installed everything. Heres what i ended up with. Oh and thats a cusco rear sway i got along with the front form someone on the forum i forgot who.
continuing.....
Ok rears done, front brakes are done, rims ok for now....so i start doing research...what do i want to do with this car and how much do i really want to spend...we all know u can put in 30g into these cars and won't even be able to sell them for 10g complete so u got to part them out to make 2/3 of your money back....well i decided I'm going to give this to my 1 year old son when he is of age to drive so money is no issue for this build. Do my research want to swap a 20v in....find one one ebay from someone in delaware, whole engine, ecu and loom 375 bucks just have to pick it up....no problem. need to get rid of my OEM back bumper but dont want a kouki bumper so search begins for a zenki....fnd one in AZ...550 dollars later its at my house needs painting to match the yellow though (that can wait). Find zenki side moldings on ebay...50 bucks shipped for all 6 pieces...need painting that can also wait...going to end up doing a yellow panda like my coupe in Okinawa above...only thing is the car I bought the previous own painted this stupid ass pin stripe about 1/4 inch above the black bottom the length of the car...needs to be completely repainted FML.
For those on here needing JDM parts I higgle suggest hitting up Robert and his wife at EP Importer....90% of all my JDM parts came from him...rare and hard to find stuff. Only thing is shipping will hurt your pocket these days from japan since they did away with surface mail, but if you want to be different its going to cost you. Anyhow did some more research on real zenki coupes...purchased the JDM coupe tail, trunk garnish and trunk spoiler(still need hardware to mount it if anyone has any).
the spoilers are pretty easy to find but the zenki trunk garnish is almost impossible....I lucked out
Robert from EP importer found me some old bomex power aero mirrors, still need painting this was test fitting and wiring. Also got some custom carpets, and very rare true no coupe factory window shades, HKS air filter, NGK Iritop racing spark plugs, 20v Derlin Dizzy cap, Some 1NZ coils, Traction brackets and a steel clutch line
At this point I'm just buying everything up that I can find thats hard to get...not in any particular order but things pop up and if you dont jump you might not see it again for 5 years with these cars. Since i had this 20v here I wasn't sure if I wanted to go all out and make the ultimate N/A 20v around or just do a stock rebuild. Knowing myself I wouldn't be happy with a stock engine and guess what pops up on the forum ....42mm HKS crank....great the spending begins again.
Ok Stock blacktop, HKS crank....hmmm good start to this ultimate 20v setup...ok lets start finding parts for this build...contacted my buddy Robert at EP importer for my hard to find needs and started shopping all over the net. One HKS oil pressure kit and, N2 timing belt tensioner from EP importer
Custom windage tray and teflon scraper(not pictured) from http://www.crank-scrapers.com/Toyota_4a.html good product, takes forever to be made though
sent CP the HKS 5ag piston i got with the crank and a stock blacktop piston and they sent me back 83mm 12.5c/r blacktop pistons with the pin location moved to suit the cranks extra stroke. had the pistons ceramic coated at Swain and the pins DLC coated at Richter precision in PA.
I chose to use the adaptronic ECU setup as its pretty easy to use, cost effective and will do the job i need without spending ridiculous money. check them out at http://adaptronic.com.au/.
Jeff at Orion scored these Tomei 20v poncoms for me at the best price on the market , want to see what VVT does through out my power range before I try some kelfords with more lift. Also scored a set of Tomei crank Ladders off the net.
Custom harmonic balancer for the 20v from BHJ...if your interested in one or curious about what these do check them out here http://www.bhjdynamics.com/ind...d=266,
Ogura pro carbon clutch disc....this is a discontinued setup but very expensive...after 6 months of bargaining I finally got it for a good price off the forum. Im planning on doing the LEEN tranny swap and PIT ORC of japan has agreed to make me a custom disc hub to work with the J160 trans but still fit this setup...yessss
KING main, rod and thrust bearings, along with ARP head and main studs for 20v.
I chose King for their silicon based material and super accurate sizing. Sent the bearings up to Richter Precision for dry film coating. No need to comment on the ARP hardware...its a must have.
Toda oil pump gear(left) next to stock 20v blacktop gear and a Power enterprise ae111 timing belt,
TRD/carrillo rods from hasselgren. Got these from Billy_Andre here on the forum great rods for 400 bucks but the 20mm rebushing hasselgren did was very sloppy and actually bigger then the 20mm pin so I had to have them rebutted. Not a big deal but not the type of service I would expect from them. My advice anyone buying anything reconditioned from Hasselgren get it checked.Rods are about 78gr lighter then stock 20v BT rods
Ok had Zeke down at Ferrea design me a new valve train setup for the 20v blacktop....sent him a head and 6 weeks/1200 later he sends me these. Comparison picture below are stock, and Ferrea....the middle valve spring is Toda AE111 spring. The valve train consist of new valve spring and seat which Ferrea rated at 9800rpm capability safely, light weight retainer they are now producing (not titanium but just as light), Intake and exhaust valves with back cuts, swirl polish and redesigned tulip degree to increase flow. Flow bench test at Ferrea on stock valves yielded 175cfm, redesigned valves 205...all on a stock head and cams. Ferrea recommended a 3 angle valve job and port work on the short turns of the head to gain another 20-25 cfm of flow. Thats almost a 25% increase in flow.....
Sent my pistons pins, rings, and valve buckets out to richter Precision in PA to be DLC coated...If you dont know about DLC (Diamond Like Coating) google it....greatly reduces friction between metal, hard as hell, a lot of Formula race car builders use it on their parts....not mainstream yet because of cost but car companies like Nissan are utilizing it in their engines now for longer life. if you have a little extra money i recommend it, friction robs engines of HP...so in the quest to have the highest output of your build every little detail must be taken into account. Picture below is stock used bucket and pins and DLC coated next to them...
Many of you know i have carbon fiber drive shafts made for any application...heres one for the AE86...the stock shaft is about 32lbs if i remember correctly yoke to U joint....mines 13.8lbs...can handle 500hp...balanced to 180mph....look for my post for more characteristics of carbon fiber drive shafts...Unfortunately i sold this one because I purchased the LEEN 6 speed tranny swap so I will be making a new shaft for that application as soon as the tranny gets here.
Stock 20v blacktop piston 81mm(398 weight with pins and rings) and CP 5ag spec 83mm piston (384 with rings and pistons) weights..not a big difference in weight then again they are 2mm bigger and a whole lot stronger..Final c/r with the over bore size but same dome characteristics as stock 12.5
Next i took some advice from the Techno square build and de-burred and de-sanded the inside of the block from rough edges and casting sand that was still in there..when u spend a lot on a build you dont want any of that sand breaking loose and getting in between those moving parts. Kind of a pain in the ass and long process but at least i will have a good piece of mind that no sand will be floating around in there....plus the smooth sides should help with oil shedding some...Block water jackets were also HardBloked half way up to help reenforce the cylinder walls since they are being bored out 2mm and give the block a little extra strength...for those thinking about the engine over heating...I have an upgraded oil system (pan, cooler) as well as an upgraded radiator (koyo) so with the extra oil capacity and the cooler water temps im hoping it will make up for the cemented block. If you cement your block allow it to cure for at least 30 days before boring and make sure u put some type of vibrating device under the block when u pour it in to settle it before it drys..i used two electric sanders duck taped to the block for about 30 mins...
Update.....i think i mentioned it above i purchased a LEEN 6 speed setup....but had a problem the ORC clutch package i have only fits the t50 trans and the disc that LEEN provides wont work on my setup so i had two options either buy a whole new clutch/pressure plate and flywheel package or somehow have a new clutch hub modified or made. I contacted Ogura and they said the clutch package i have is discontinued and they do not provide any support but a shop called Pit Orc http://www.pit-orc.com provides aftermarket support for discontinued Ogura setups....great! Robert and his wife from EP Importer contacted them relayed what i was doing and what I wanted and they made me a custom hub to fit my clutch package and the J160 tranny...paid them a few days ago and my hub is already on its way...they are fast!!! if you scroll up some u can see the original clutch hub and compare the center sizes....great thing about this setup its rebuildable so if i happen to wear out the carbon disc (which i doubt very much) i can just buy a replacement disc
another nice little item....speed sensor to work with the AE86 worm gear and fit the J160 trans. Apparently the people who make this already did the mods and to work properly.....guess i got to wait until it gets here to find out....If it doesnt work right i will use the OEM electronic speed sensor with a speedo healer and my s2000 cluster to get the correct speed...i know u have to compensate for final gearing and tire size like Dan stated in his post about these so will see what happens and let you guys know...
got some parts in today...all my earls fittings and 6AN hose to make my fuel lines for this blacktop....also using the Tomei fuel pressure regulator. Forgot how expensive these things are but they do look good when all setup.
Still waiting for my fitting and line for the Earls oil cooler....Im trying their oil thermostat also see how it works out...basically when the oil is cool it circulates the oil through the thermostat and back to the engine by passing the oil cooler....once it reaches a specific temp the oil is allowed to flow thru the thermostat to the cooler and back to the engine...also to the left I have an old school HKS oil filter relocation kit
On this setup im scratching the strut tower and trying out Nagisa Auto Shakitto plates....they brace the struts to the firewall instead of across to each other... see what happens...i like how they look when installed
found this website that had plenums for the blacktop in RWD applications...plenums with short stacks will make some good power so I picked one up on yahoo japan for less then the maker sells them for only catch i get to drill all the holes...yeah...one shot to get it right...they also make a nice air box for cold air intake but kind of pricey...maybe down the road I will pick one up check out their site http://www.mekaru.jp/AE86%20ea....html
Went to the shop today to see how everything was going...block was just getting done being bored and honed with the torque plate. I thought u only honed with torque plates but Sandy likes to do both with it on. Looks good
Took some other pictures of the shop...cleanest shop i ever seen for the amount of work they do there. Some of their machinery, some engines waiting for service, Formula Honda Fit engine they pioneered for honda about to go into the engine dyno...apparently they have these things up to 140-150hp range, All my crap on a cart waiting in line to get worked on...last picture is one of the Dynos looking thru the glass...they have a double dyno side by side..pretty cool
had a chance to work on my car some today...installed my JDM coupe wing. Herb from Cabe Toyota hooked me up with the correct metal clips and bolts to do the install and i got the plastic OEM snap fasteners from Robert at EP Importer....I drilled the holes and bolted everything down....I think i might of made the holes for the snap in fasteners a little to big...doesn't stay flush on the passenger rear corner...might revisit that later on...not really noticeable but im a perfectionist so it bothers me lol
Dropped the tank and installed a Walbro GSS250 190lph pump....the 255 everyone uses was over kill...this one might be slightly bigger then i need but i think it is a happy medium between stock pump and the 255. Dropping the tank and swapping pumps is a pain rear big time
Dug deep today and pulled out my brand new factory side skirts and end caps....still in the box....thats niceeeeeee
pans complete
Got the LEEN transmission today....boy is it pretty and the tranny is actually a lot smaller then I imagined .... Joe even gave me a free short shifter for the delay...
Talked to Sandy at quicksilver today...he is personally doing my head which is great news...block is about done ready for mock up. He asked me why i decided to use the Tomei poncams with my setup.....as you know these cams are made to run on a stock engine and ecu....he basically told me if I wanted to run cams for a stock engine i should of saved the thousands I've spent and rebuilt a stock engine. For all the work and parts i got it was advised to go with something thats going to make some real power.....soooooo i made some phone calls and hit up some of my contacts and came up with a custom setup from Toda....300 duration 10.7mm lift....pistons need deeper reliefs now and a fresh coating from swain...you wont ever find these cams anywhere..well except for in my engine. The whole cams have been WPC treated ( m http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles ... t-wpc.aspx m ) and then using the same process as WPC coated with the solid lubricant molybdenum disulfide which cuts friction. In conjunction with my DLC coated valve buckets there should be very little friction throughout the whole drive train.
Got these parts in a few weeks ago...brand new unreleased in the USA yet TRD FT86 manuel shift knob.....will suit the LEEN trans nicely
110mm hub for my new personal 340mm steering wheel...
had some time to do some work on the car instead of just buy parts haha...Quaife steering rack installed! 2.5 turns lock to lock...
Installed T3 LCA, T3 Steering knuckles, T3 Outer tie rods, Cusco tension rods, Greddy RCA and put the Greddy coilovers with FC3S brake upgrade back on....yeah a little surface rust they been sitting for a half a year.
Purchased this Oil capacity spacer.....its 10mm thick and allows u to increase the oil capacity by 1 quart....not sure if im going to use it since i just had my pan done...TEC -ARTS sells these for a few hundred bucks...might copy and offer to the community for half the price...
Painted my engine bay myself preparing for my engine...not the best picture but this is a spray paint job.....before u laugh you wouldn't even be able to tell if I didn't tell u.....bought 8 cans of the exact color paint of my car from Automotivetouchup.com along with clear coat.... I actually painted in in sections and looks great....
Old school revolver rear strut bar....
Billet hood rod holder....few bucks off Yahoo Japan...
Modified tensioner to ensure my timing belt doesn't jump a tooth when the factory one fails....ive seen to many forum members destroy their engines because of this damn tensioner....this mod prevents that with my engine.
Want to give a shout out to Herb from Cabe toyota.....long time member of this board for hooking me up with new parts when i need them....he sent me a new clock bezel and a new fuel sender.
Half the block is assembled...HKS crank is balanced and in, Tomei crank ladders and ARP hardware have been marked and bolted up....(Quick note for anyone building a block as anally as i am....when you switch from stock main bolts to ARP and also add the ladder crank have your builder line bore the block with them on...We found because of the different way the bolts tighten down the main caps line boring was needed). If you look closely at the crank QuickSilver did a little mod by removing the round press in plugs for the oil passage and replaced them with screw in plugs. The purpose behind this is the round plugs somethings come loose and that causes the oil pressure to drop. We all know with the 4age engine oil pressure is very important if the engine is going to last. Again the block has been ported and polished inside to remove all the sand left over from the casting and all the flashes have been smoothed out...this helps prevent oil from sticking to the sides keeping it in the pan where it belongs and eliminates those little sand particles from coming loosing and tearing up our engine. I recommend it to everyone...takes a few hours but worth the effort. You cant see but the oil pump has been ported out and the Toda oil pump gear put in. It also has the HKS oil pressure up kit pictures above in it.
Intake manifold has been match ported with the intake porting on the head...QuickSilver likes to leave a slight dimpled texture on the intake side for better atomization purposes. Intake ports have been cleaned up concentrating on the short turns and bowl area...the valve stems have been tapered to allow better flow around them also. Bowl work looks great perfectly blended and 3 angle valve seat cut. The spark plug tubes had to be dimpled so the lobes on the cams cleared....now thats lift.
Thats all for now the pistons had to have slightly deeper valve reliefs cut on the exhaust side, intake side and one very small relief made for the edge of the center valve. Sandy is pretty set on all the valves having the same amount of valve to piston clearance across the board. Pistons are now at Swain to touch up the ceramic coating on the crowns.
Next update will include the flow bench results....aiming at 225-230+cfm for the head...that would be an improvement of 55-60cfm over stock or a 25% increase in overall flow. More pictures of the final assembly to come...then dyno time!
Heres some of the exhaust work during the final process...guides are angled more then you see...
this is another head im actually doing myself... has alot more port work done...I want to experiment between the one sandy did for me....as you know big ports dont always make more power which is the case for the 20v..but since i had another head I decided to see what he differences really are....will be later down the road though as i need some extra cash to get another set of valves and springs...after my car is done.
Back at the shop today, the pistons are back and ready for final build....head was cc'd and now they just need to measure the pistons to calculate the exact C/R and then decide on if the head will be shaved so we can reach the target ration which is 12.5. I picked 12.5 because im having two maps made on the dyno one for pump fuel which is probably going to pull a crap load of timing out and then one for track using 110 octane. The engine setup will also be different the pump fuel map will utilize the plenum and filter I have and the short velocity stacks and the track map will be with the 100mm velocity stacks and the pipercross filter.
Pistons have valve relief cuts for the 10.7mm cams. As you can see there is still no intake reliefs except for half of the center. Keep this in mind when u buy those aftermarket pistons that have these deep valve reliefs for no reason....No one on the market has any cams with a higher lift then these...(except maybe Kelford) so dont get fooled when u ask for blacktop pistons and get silvertop send them back and ask for Blacktop pistons and no they are not the same. If you look at the middle edge of the dome on the intake side there is a small relief cut. the way the blacktop combustion chamber is designed and the way the OEM pistons are designed there are dead spots along the back and sides of the intake valves that spark cant reach, that relief allows the flame to travel to that area now and burn that fuel. My piston and what people sell as Blacktop pistons elsewhere...Looks like a silvertop to me with reliefs for 18mm lift cams lol
Valves are in and the combustion chamber has been cc'd like i said....you can see they are all pretty close to the same and dont need any work done.
Picture of the inside of my custom pan from Moroso, has a baffle plate and you can see two of the four trap doors in the shape of a diamond....this keeps the oil in the center at the pickup and not in the wings when cornering...the doors only open inward.
This car was in the shop for some work...its an original lotus and worth somewhere over $100000 according to Sandy Pretty cool
New parts.......
60mm Rein Hard exhaust.....almost done with every part I need....next battery relocation setup, Catch can with duel inlets one from valve cover and one from oil pan....(custom setup to draw crank pressure from below and above the pistons) need a new electric fan setup...my fans are two thick...going to wait for the engine to get here and measure again before I buy though.
update...engine was cc's and comes out to exactly 1798cc....true 1.8 setup....compression ratio fell short at 12.1 so the math was done and the head was shaved enough to bring the final c/r to exactly 12.5. Was going to have two maps one for 93 pump and one for Sunoco 110 but after thinking about it for a while, this is not going to be a daily driver and 110 isnt that expensive to purchase every few weeks when I will drive it so I will still have two maps one with the plenum, 20mm velocity stacks and cold air intake, and second with 100mm velocity stacks and the piper-cross filter...Block is all together...had to remove the pistons because the extra stroke from the crank caused the bottom skirt of the pistons to tap the top of the oil squirters...no big deal, pistons were removed and notched on all sides equally to ensure the proper balance is maintained. Custom teflon crank scraper is all sized up....this is a great mod for our engines with wet sump setups...Heres some pictures...85% there...final assembly tomorrow, then all the small stuff and dyno time...lets go 250hp+
Had some time to work on the car....painted the whole engine bay with spray paint ....but you couldn't tell if i didnt tell you... m http://www.automotivetouchup.com m can provide you with automotive paint codes in a can and if you know how to paint you can get some good results....sucks all that time and money i spent doing this i decided to take the car to the shop to get repainted Lexus LFA yellow....no pearl though...AE86's dont look right with pearl paint lol. had my aero mirrors painted and had to drill some new holes to install but looks good....
Thanks man got an amazing bill to pay back also now lol.......heres some more pictures from today...head was cut and final C/R is 12.6:1 and displacement is 1798cc.
Flow benching.....283CFM at 28 inch water 10.7mm lift...not bad!
Long Block being assembled. The Black valve buckets you see are DLC coated to reduce friction between the cam lobes and the buckets. My cams are also WPC coated for additional hardness, friction reduction and wear reduction.
Coil packs being modified to fit the 20v spark tubes
Head on the table to be cc'd
John at JSP hooked me up with a custom bezel for my s2000 cluster...heres some test fitment pictures...fits great you have to use the 2 brackets he provides with the bezel on the lower of the 2 mounting holes on the cluster..Im going to customize the face with something special, im not a fan of the raw aluminum look...Since mines is a JDM cluster the MPH function is disabled for some reason so im using this http://www.yellr.com/yb_home.htm to calibrate the KPH to MPH...not using most of the features like oil pressure/temp, or water temp just blinkers, door open, fuel, and a few others haven't figured it out yet...I have Omori gauges to read exact levels of the other stuff
Engines all done....next is setup on Dyno and hopefully get it running before Christmas. Final displacement 1798cc and 12.6:1 C/R
A lot of detail!
Posted by Diggymart on 3/24/20 @ 4:53:18 PM