Pics & Review of My Bilstein PSS10 Lowered Red Turbo by cannga

6 minute(s) of a 612 minute read

10-26-2014

Ok, I've been corrected (thanks). There are indeed 2 versions of Bilstein B16 Damptronic. I am a little embarrassed that I did not know this; it's been *only* 6 years  since I've been posting on this topic. 

1. Model 49-135817, $2839: http://www.awe-tuning.com/bilstein-b...onic-49-135817

2. Model 49-135985, $3053: http://www.awe-tuning.com/bilstein-b...onic-49-135985 (this is what I have)

How do I know which version I have? Going to the Bilstein web site, I see two versions also, and since the booklet that comes with my kit says "Type GA5-D598," which matches number 2, I am sure it is number 2 that I have. It is the Sport version, NOT Comfort version.

http://cart.bilsteinus.com/search/mm.../drivetype=AWD

1. Part Number: 49-135817

Series: B16 (DampTronic)

Position: Front and Rear 

Descriptor: (PASM) Damptronic

Descriptor: Comfort Setting

Descriptor: Front Lowered Height: 25-35mm

Descriptor: Rear Lowered Height: 15-35mm

Old Part Number: F4-GA5-D581-H0

Old Part Number: F4-GA5-D581-H1

Old Part Number: F4-GA5-D581-H2

2. Part Number: 49-135985 (this is what I have)

Series: B16 (DampTronic)

Position: Front and Rear 

Descriptor: (PASM) Damptronic

Descriptor: Front Lowered Height: 15-35mm

Descriptor: Rear Lowered Height: 15-35mm

Old Part Number: F4-GA5-D598-H2

Old Part Number: F4-GA5-D598-H3

12-29-2014

Hi there, I had a discussion on this on the first page of this thread that I reposted below. With cost in mind, I would think of the following 3 mods: lowering springs, sway bar, and more negative camber in front.

I would add that while 997 TT is similar to 996 TT and basic principles still hold, as far as specific brands of lowering springs that would work for 996 TT, I do NOT know. You might want to ask in the 996 TT forum also. All lowering springs are not the same, for example for 997 TT, Eibach/GMG and Techart lowering springs are likely to be stiffer than H&R, and for my taste (YMMV), I would lean towards the stiffer lowering springs. I see this Eibach kit by carid: http://www.carid.com/2004-porsche-99...t-7606832.html that seems to be very reasonably priced, but I do not know the details: does it work for the Turbo, is carid a good company, etc. The only thing I know is that Eibach is an excellent and reputable company, so I would definitely check on 996 TT forum also.

Hope this helps. Have a happy, safe, and healthy New Year (to all 6speeders).

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From first page of this thread, post number 4 : Pics & Review of My Bilstein PSS10 Lowered Red Turbo

My Idea of Stages to Upgrade Your Car's Suspension: First please keep in mind the following rambling :-) of "suspension" stages is merely my opinions, although ones that are based on a lot of experimenting, reading, and questioning of professional tuners. It is a very generalized guideline so relax, and don't nit pick :-). I assume before going further, the first question to ask is WHAT are we trying to accomplish when we mod the suspension? To answer this question is to understand the hundreds of posts that follow. The answer is, in general, we mod the suspension to: 

A. reduce body roll/weight transfer (not the same thing, but long story and will not cover here)

B. increase grip in corners.

It is because of A and B above that you will notice that *in general* nearly everything we do goes towards stiffening and lowering the car, and increasing tire contact in corners.

Stage 1.

***Coilover or lowering springs: I prefer coilover but if cost is a problem, stiff lowering springs like Eibach, GMG (made by Eibach), or Techart are good alternatives. Keep in mind people move/upgrade from lowering springs to coilover, never the other way around so going w/ springs might cost more in the long run. For coilover, I recommend Bilstein Damptronic (with PASM) as a perfect street/occasional track car, and Bilstein PSS10 (no PASM) if you worry about PASM's reliability. For a track car only, then there are other choices such as JRZ, Ohlins, etc.

***After-market sway bar: Set front softer than rear, to counter our 4WD cars' tendency to understeer. I have GMG but there are a few good ones on the market: Eibach, H&R, TPC, etc. GMG is only company that publishes specs on their sway and that's why I prefer it. 

***Alignment change: Increase front camber to its max value, around minus 1.2. The simplest and cheapest mod to our Turbo; recommended without reservation. This is also known as the GT3's street setting and you WILL feel the difference in corners from the higher front end traction. Also decreases understeer, an inherent "problem" with our 4WD 997 Turbo.

Stage 2.

***Drop links with heim joint: Heim joint is metallic, as opposed to stock rubber/PU/plastic links/bushings/etc. After-market drop links like those from Tarett Engineering (well known, reputable, and cheapest) are stiffer and make car feel less rubbery and much more planted. It also reduces a lot of lateral and vertical motion of the Turbo's rear wheel under acceleration. This is among the most cost effective of all suspension mods and I cannot recommend it highly enough: cheap, adjustable by yourself at home. It's also totally reversible so if you don't like it, just take it out. And why wouldn't you like it? It makes the ride stiffer and road noise louder; as always, suspension tuning is about trade-off. Click Here to See Rear Tarett Drop Link . I have this on versus off every few months, sometimes just to study the behavior of the car.