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5 minute read
Easy Wire Tuck
Compliments of Frankiago @ www.evoxforums.com
9-3-2011
Parts Required:
- 18-22awg black wire x12"
- 18-20awg pink or red wire x12"
- Heat shrink tubing
- 1-3 zip ties, depending on the mood
Tools Required:
- Heat gun or good hair dryer
- Wire strippers or razor blade (don't cut strands, be careful if using razor)
- Solder (soldering iron, 60/40 or 63/37 or lead-free, rosin core or rosin flux)
or
- Non-insulated butt-splices and crimper, heat shrink over the connection
Recommended Number of People:
- 1
Difficulty:
- 1 for electrically inclined
- 2 for electrically dumb
Time to complete:
- 1 hour
Step by Step Instructions:
1. Unclip everything that branches off from the left two injectors on. This will consist of two injector plugs, one plug going just under the left front side of the valve cover, one plug going into the power steering pump, and the last plug that normally drapes over the valve cover to plug in on the back left side of the valve cover.
2. Tuck all five of these plugs through the gap between the fuel rail and the intake manifold right in the middle of the four injectors.
3. Send the two valve cover plugs (cam position/phase sensors? don't actually go INTO the valve cover but just below it on all four corners) and one power steering pump plug back through inbetween fuel rail and intake manifold inbetween the left two injectors.
4. Take all three of these plugs and send them down between the left-most intake runners on the intake manifold.
5. Fish these plugs through the left side of the intake manifold and guide them past the power steering pump. The one that needs to be extended will no longer reach so you should've had the wires and tools ready to extend at this point.
6. Guide the two injector plugs through the same way between fuel rail and intake manifold and plug them back in. The one with the zip tied clip and the white paint marker marking goes in the far left side injector.
7. Connect in the power steering pump plug.
8. The plug that goes into the head (cam position sensor or something?) needs to be zip-tied to keep it clear of the belt that runs just to the left, so plug it in and zip tie it close, but don't put too much tension on the wires to keep them in the plug.
9. Extend these two wires approx. 10" or whatever it takes for your specific routing to get this last plug to its intended connection. Pull the "sheath" of insulator that surrounds both wires back as far as you can, you ideally want to make the cut an inch or two behind the opening where the wires come out. You make the splice deep in there and you are able to pull the sheath back over your splice, giving cleaner results. On the other end use either non-insulated butt-splices and heat shrink over OR solder them together and heat shrink over. Either way, try to use heat shrink as much as possible when doing these types of splices.
10. After extending, you may need to zip tie this extension in somewhere to keep it closer to the head so it doesn't stray towards the belt. Wrap in electrical tape.
11. Get some lotion if your hands are ashy like mine from cold, dry garage and cleaning your hands too often.
To extend the wires, I used 18 gauge black for the black wire and 18 gauge red to extend the pink wire. To match factory wiring exactly, you'd want to use 20 gauge pink wire and 22 gauge black wire, respectively.
This wire tuck involved 1 cut across those 2 wires mentioned, that is it. Everything else is left undamaged, uncut, etc... so if the need to go back to stock ever came, I just have to re-shorten the extended wires :P
Can you make a cleaner wire tuck? You sure can. Will it be anywhere near as easy as this? Nope.
I basically went the easiest, least invasive route.