DIY Instructions Front Suspension Installation & Ball Joint by phollero

By diyauto
( 2 )

9 minute read

DIY Instructions Front Suspension Installation & Ball Joint


Compliments of phollero @ www.clublexus.com


I changed my stock front springs and shocks last month to KYB shocks and RSR springs. Following the Lexus service manual, here are a few pictures and some notes on what I did and did NOT have to do. The final result was successful and have already put over a 1,000 miles since without issues.


1. Loosen, but do NOT remove lug nuts. Jack up the car at the front cross member and support both sides with jack stands. 

Remove front wheel. Notice I used a secondary jack to support the lower control arm. I found it very helpful to carefully lower the shock/spring assembly.



2. DID NOT DO: Remove the brake caliper. The manual says to do this because when removing the upper control arm, the weight of the caliper could pull the brake line and possibly damage it. 


3. Disconnect the ABS speed sensor. In reality, I just removed this part of the speed sensor so I could move the suspension without pulling it.



4. Disconnect upper suspension arm from steering knuckle - 

Here's what I'm talking about



Pull out the castle nut clip.



Use a ratchet to remove the castle nut.



Use a Pitman Arm Puller like this (I bought from AutoZone) and tighten it until the arm pops off. This is where you have to support the suspension so that when it pops off you do not pull the brake line and possibly make it leak.



Here it is after you disconnect the arm.



Hook a coat hanger from the upper suspension arm to the steering knuckle so the lower control arm doesn't pull the brake line.



5. Disconnect Stabilizer bar from stabilizer bar link. Remove bolt and nut (although it looks like these are both bolts, one is a bolt and the other is a nut).



See next post for continuation...


6. Remove the front shock absorber. 

Remove the bolt and nut and disconnect the shock absorber from the lower suspension arm. This was the hardest part because that bolt is @#!$Damn tight. I ended up spraying it with penetrating oil several times and using an impact wrench. 



 


Remove the 3 nuts and shock absorber from the body.

The center nut (piston rod lock nut) should be loosened, but remove it AFTER you put the spring compressors on because it is under high tension.



I lowered the jack supporting the suspension so I could lower the arm slowly and pull the shock absorber out.




7. After you have removed the shock and spring:

Compress the spring using a spring compressor.


Unscrew the piston rod lock nut.

Remove the suspension support (aka shock mount) from the shock absorber.

Remove the insulator (boot) from the shock absorber.

Remove the rubber spring bumper from the shock absorber.

Remove the coil spring.


8. Reassembly:

INSTALL SPRING BUMPER TO SUSPENSION SUPPORT

INSTALL INSULATOR TO SUSPENSION SUPPORT

Make sure you match the bolt of the suspension support with the cut–out part of the insulator. Note picture from manual since I did not take a picture.



Compress the spring and INSTALL COIL SPRING TO SHOCK ABSORBER.

Fit the lower end of the coil spring into the recess of the spring

seat of the shock absorber.

INSTALL SUSPENSION SUPPORT

(a) Install the suspension support to the rod.

(b) Temporarily tighten a new lock nut.

(c) Align the suspension

lower bolt, as shown.



9. Installation: is the reverse of removal.

Left - the new spring and shock

Right - original stock spring and shock



Just note some torque specifications so you tighten correctly:

Castle nut - 64 ft lbf

Stabilizer bolt/nut - 41 ft lbf

Shock absorber lower bolt - 116 ft lbf - This mother is tight so TIGHTEN SLOWLY so you don't break the bolt!

The 3 shock mount nuts - 41 ft lbf

Piston rod lock nut - 20 ft lbf (USE THE NEW nut that comes with shock)


Some of you may wonder about how to reattach the upper control arm since you needed a pitman arm puller to pop it out: fortunately attaching it is just merely ratcheting the castle nut to the correct torque and that's all. It will lock right back in. I did end up buying new castle nuts because mine were getting stripped from overtightening. You should also buy a new clip (cotter pin) since the manual says it is should not be reused.


This is also a good time to inspect your upper ball joint for cracks in the rubber and for excessive play.



You may loosen the piston rod lock nut with a spanner or socket wrench while it is still installed on the car. After you take out the shock/spring assembly and compress the spring, then you fully remove the piston rod nut. I just held the shock/spring assembly down on a table with one hand and used a socket wrench to remove it.


4-11-2007


To replace the top ball joint, I THINK you have to replace the entire control arm as every online parts store I have checked sells the arm/joint as one assembly. Not 100% sure. 


The lower ball joint indeed has 3 points of attachment. 2 are plain bolts and the third is a nut connected to the tie rod. After you take out the clip and unscrew the nut connected to the tie rod, you need to use the pitman arm puller to pop the tie rod out of the ball joint. You can then remove the ball joint and its mount.


4-12-2007


W4SIM,

Good luck with the bottom ball joint!


Here's what the service manual says about the procedure (note SST means special service tool - such as pitman arm puller is an SST):


REMOVAL

1. REMOVE FRONT WHEEL

Torque: 103 N·m (1,050 kgf·cm, 76 ft·lbf)


2. REMOVE BRAKE CALIPER

(a) Remove the 2 bolts and caliper.

Torque: 118 N·m (1,200 kgf·cm, 87 ft·lbf)

(b) Support the brake caliper securely.


3. DISCONNECT TIE ROD END FROM LOWER BALL

JOINT (see first picture below) 

(a) Remove the clip and nut.

Torque: 87 N·m (890 kgf·cm, 64 ft·lbf)

(b) Using SST, disconnect the tie rod end from the lower ball

joint.

SST 09610–20012


4. DISCONNECT LOWER BALL JOINT FROM LOWER

SUSPENSION ARM (see second picture below)

(a) Remove the cotter pin and nut.

Torque: 127 N·m (1,300 kgf·cm, 95 ft·lbf)

(b) Using SST, remove the lower ball joint.

SST 09628 62011


5. REMOVE LOWER BALL JOINT FROM STEERING

KNUCKLE

Remove the 2 bolts and lower ball joint.

Torque: 113 N·m (1,150 kgf·cm, 83 ft·lbf)


  


4-15-2007


Check it out Lexus Boy...

It took me a while, but I finally did the rear suspension.


http://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-1st-gen-1993-1997/276535-diy-rear-suspension-removal-and-installation.html


Next...Putting on some 19" RH Evo GT-5's!




Comments