Louie4's YJ by Louie4 | jeep | wrangler-yj | builds

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Louie4's YJ by Louie4

By diyauto

( 2 )

13 minute(s) of a 411 minute read

9-3-2016

Made more progress.

I'm hoping I have enough tubing for the cross member. I got my traction bar kit from Ruff Stuff

9-4-2016

Riding higher than I thought.

Pic due to being on my iPhone.

I can still put two pieces of metal together. This is the top member for the traction bar. Ruff Stuff sending the beef.

9-6-2016

Started messing with the cross member. I welded one end and tacked on the other once I had them bolted in for mock up.

9-7-2016

It sits about level with the stock skid and it just barely touches the exhaust pipe. Any higher and I would need to relocate my muffler. The cross bar is 1.5" OD so only 3/4" will be below the centerline. The poly bushing tubes on the end are 2" OD.

I may put some plate over the tab openings to give some protection and I'll need bigger tires to get the belly up.

9-8-2016

Workspace as it looks today.

9-12-2016

One day.

I did more work on the jeep this past Sunday. I was going to take pics but didn't. I burned in the crossmember mounts and tacked the spring perches but that's all I did. I need to get the top bar of the anti-wrap measured and cut and tack the mounts on the axle tube.

One thing I did do was burn my back on the tip of the welding gun. I laid on it by accident. Second degree burns are no bueno.

9-20-2016

Not a ton of things being accomplished. I did mockup the top bar on the anti wrap and marked where to cut so I can put the helm joint in. I also sent my rear driveshaft back to Tom Wood to have it lengthened. This will be the first time I've had to modify it since I bought it 10 years ago. Luckily I was able to fit it in a USPS flat rate box and ship it for $18. Otherwise it was going to be $45.

The burn on my back is healing where I laid on the MIG welding tip so I hope to get back to it soon. Getting close now.

9-26-2016

Got a call from Tom Wood's Driveline today. They said most of my driveshaft is worn and the $70 lengthening turned into $215 rebuild. I think the only thing they are retaining is the main splined shaft and u-joint holder. Anyway, I got that shaft second hand and had it shortened about a decade ago. I replaced the u-joints over the last several years but I have no doubt it's worn.

Some pics from the past:

9-27-2016

I forgot to post what my wife got me for an early birthday/anniversary gift. It will come in handy for chopping tube and cutting down a driveshaft for a trail spare.

10-2-2016

Lots-o-welding this afternoon.

10-3-2016

My driveshaft has arrived. This is what a $225 repair looks like.

10-15-2016

Got some angle on it.

10-17-2016

Of that I have no doubt!

Well, I put my fab'ed up crossmember in for the anti-wrap bar only to find out it's off by 1/8". I didn't realized it at the time but I had a sleeve in the bushing for 9/16" bolts, not 1/2" bolts when I mocked it up for welding.

Anyway, my fix will be to cut off a 3" piece of 2" O.D. x 0.25" wall pipe and used that to sleeve the 1.5" O.D. crossmember after I cut it in half. Should be pretty easy once I get the tube smoothed out and polished.

I've also ordered some new rear shocks. It's a little bouncy in the rear. The anti-wrap bar is really all I need to finish and then small stuff like adjusting the e-brake, painting, etc. It seems to run great at the moment, minus the bouncy back end.

1-1-2017

It's been awhile since I've updated my build thread. I feel like I've been posting my own threads for advice but not updating this one. Anyway, I had an issue with oscillation on the back going around curves with a dip and at speed. The jeep would oscillate side to side when I straightened up. It's not a huge issue but one I think could be fixed. My initial reaction was my crummy Pro Comp shocks on the back. I just went and bought the cheapest ones with the correct length and slapped them on. Well, I decided to revisit this and try some Bilsteins. I've only heard good things and figured it was time to do it right.

So I bought some 5125's.

After I rode on them I liked the feel so I bought some for the front. Except for the front I got the heavier valving and lighter in the rear. The only problem is the shock length. I got a 29.7" shock versus the longest one. To keep the range of travel I need to relocate the mounts for that reason and the fact that the cans hit the spring plate now. I plan to run the Bilsteins can up.

Here's the tabs I bought from Ruff Stuff.

I also decided to buy some shorter rear boomerang shackles (4"). I want to get the rear shorter if possible.

Once I get the shocks situated my next step is to get new tires. This is my next big decision on how to proceed. My first inclination was to run 35" KM2's but my buddy said I should plan for the future and get 37's with a 17" wheel. I have the room but I'll have to run wheel adapters for a 5x5.5 bolt pattern. I have hesitations about that because I have 4.10 gearing and a D30 front that would be failing at the u-joints but the reality is I don't wheel as much I use to. Another consideration is the narrow 8.8 rear. The adapters will help but all the alloy 17's have 4-4.75" backspacing. On top of all that, my cost for (5) tires and wheels will double from 35's on a 15" rim to 37's on a 17" rim. With a baby on the way it's just doesn't seem feasible and the wife had sticker shock.

So, I'm left trying to figure out if I should bite the bullet or just settle for 35's and run those awhile. This February I'll of had these 33's for 7 years. Their age and wear are showing but they have been great tires. I think 35" KM2's would be fine but I'll probably want something bigger later...when later is, I don't know.

Opinions and advice are welcome.

1-1-2017

Here's the 37" tire I was looking at.

1-8-2017

Had some winter weather here in Raleigh. Jeeps were out in full force.

On the road.

1-16-2017

Did some work on the jeep this weekend. Found out the drivers side TRE was loose so I bought replacements even though I just needed to tighten the castle nut.

Here's my removed shock tabs.

Tabs.

1-17-2017

Jeep as she sits in the brand new driveway.

Posting on my phone so only 1 pic per post.

1-18-2017

Well, I bought new TRE's from Autozone, the ES2010L & R to replace my old ones that I got with the tie rod years ago. I also found this on Autozone and kind of wish I would have bought these TRE's instead:

http://www.autozone.com/suspension-...rod-end/746123_10302_3152?&searchText=ES2234R

Here's a link to SOLID's website with good stuff on TRE's.

They are longer but appear to have a jam nut. I ordered a jam nut for both left and right hand thread yesterday. Additionally, the TRE's in the link are $10 cheaper each. I couldn't remember where I got my drag link TRE's but later saw them on Ruff Stuff's website and knew that's where I got them.

Anyway, I painted my fuel filter guard, the new 4" boomerang shackles for the rear, and the shock mounts I welded to the front axle. All that's really left is getting the jam nuts and putting the new TRE's on then installing it along with shocks and my rear shackles.

The only thing I never finished from my rear SOA was the anti-wrap bar. I have the bracket on the axle and the cross member tabs welded in but I have not completed the bar itself. It's only half done. I need to fabricate the lower arm. Once that is done I plan to wait for a good deal at 4 Wheel Parts and buy new 35" tires. If I have any money after having the baby I would like to get a new UCF skid (the 2" one) to replace my old beat up stock one. I'll post more pictures once I get all the parts and back out in the garage.

1-22-2017

I got some work done on the jeep today. I bought jam nuts for the new TRE's but I received the weld in tube inserts for them instead. No problem though because I needed to change out the threaded inserts on my tie rod because the had no hex end and flats to put a wrench on. I just need to make sure that's OK with Ruff Stuff and tell them to send me the correct parts I ordered.

Once I got it chopped I had to measure how much to cut off the tie rod because the new inserts were longer and I needed room for the jam nuts and to set the toe.