1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project by BearsFan315

4 minute(s) of a 636 minute read

Ok, so I should remove the rope seal from the block & bearing cap. May be the reason WHY the oil is running out the back. Oil can not drain fast enough so it is seeping and over flowing out the back of the bearing into the flywheel cover.

This would be the Flange/ Slinger ??

Flange/ Slinger

Block Half

Assume whomever redid the engine did what they thought was correct, not period correct...

From my reading looks like there was NO Seal on the rear till about 1940 or so. Basically oil is flung around the flinger in the groove, and then runs to the bottom of the groove, and drains down the hole and out the front past the ball. That is unless the ball is stuck or is blocking the path when on incline.

Some picts of the New Springs & Gear

Parts n Pieces

Got New Clevis Pins, Cotter Pins, Springs for front and rear, and a New Clutch Return Spring...

Been working with a few guys from the VCCA (Thanks NC Chip & Andys29) on my brake issue, one issue that NC Chip has pointed out was that the rear Bracket that mounts (riveted) to the Flange seems to be out of place.

Bracket in Question

Bracket Close-Up

Bracket Top Down Assembled

Bracket Top Down

Bracket from the Inside

Bracket from Rear

This varies from his that seems to be pretty Flat against the flange ?!?

Now Looking at the location of the Proportioner as well and the End Linkages of the Cross shafts and front / rear linkages. Here is a picture of the Proportioner in position using the Brake Gauge/ Tool to set the pin hole at approximately 35 deg. 

Proportioner Set-up, now with this setup here is what the crossshaft linkages look like Cross shaft end linkagesThe front is to the left, and linkageis slightly angled to hte front, where the rear is more angled to the rear at a steeper angle. Here is a shot of the front linkage Front Linkage it is almost straight up and down, slight angle towards the front. Then here is the rear linkage Rear Linkage Rear of 1929 is to the left, Linkage is slightly angled towards the rear. hard to get a side shot of this one since it is in a tight spot behind running board.

Trying to figure out if this is correct or even in the ball park. Seems with this setup I can connect all the linkages back up after the brakes are set and the stops and adjustments are made.

Looking at my Rear Brakes, was trying to figure out how to get teh drum off. I have removed the cotter pin & Castle Nut off the shaft. Thought that the Drum would just slide off, but was wrong.

Did Some homework and it seems that the proper way to remove the rear drum is by using a Really Big & Heavy Duty Gear/ Pulley Puller ?? 

How have you guys done it, and what is the Best/ Safest way to do this, with OUT damaging the drum or anything on the Rear Axle ??

Looks like everyone has their way, seems most use a large hub puller or crum puller. I am going to see if I can rent one from the local parts store before I buy one to make sure i buy what i truly need.

How do you reinstall the brake drum and make sure it is secure and on all the way ?? Does it have to be pressed on or jsut slid on then tighted up and pinned ??

Answer: Replacing the drum is easy. Push it on with the brakes loose and tighten the castle nut and replace the cotter pin. I would look into the torques specs before I tightened it.

Well got my Hub Puller in last night !!

Will post up some picts of what I got. It is stamped as a Hunt brand, anyone ever heard of them. This thing came in an old metal case, weighs a ton. In excellent condition and will long outlast me and the next 12 owners