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6 minute(s) of a 636 minute read
9-5-2013
Ok, Working on my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action] I am verifying the Dipper Depth into the Trough. From doing my homework, Reading the Forums & Owners Manuals, etc... It seems that the recommended depth for the Dipper to dip into the trough is roughly 15/64" or .234".
I did simple measuring, using straight edges, calipers, etc... and then confirmed/ verified my numbers by using the grease method Which was fun !!
Oil Pan Troughs Loaded up w/Grease
Would like to know what the proper depth should be for the rod dippers into the oil troughs to ensure proper oiling of the rods...
9-16-2013
Got the Oil Pan All Done, so Installed the Spring & Screen on the Oil Pump so that I can start to close it up
Oil Pump Spring & Screen Pict 01
Oil Pump Spring & Screen Pict 02
Oil Pump Spring & Screen Pict 03
Oil Pump Spring & Screen Pict 04
Getting Closer to Test Firing !!
Had some time Sunday Night to install the Oil Pan Gasket !!
Did a test fit, made sure the Gasket Fit and laid propery against each other, and no interferences. Installed the Oil Pump Spring and Screen on Oil Pump 1929 Oil Pump (Identification & Replacement) I Read and then ReRead all the recommendations posted above about installing the gasket, and proceded as follows:
1-Cleaned Gasket Mating Surfaces on Oil Pan and on Engine Block, Made sure no debri, film, oil, etc...
2-Applied a thin coat of Grease to the Engine block to assist in holding the Oil Pan Gasket in Place
3-Screwed in my homemade Alignment/ Guide Pins Alignment/ Guide Pins
4-Installed and seated the Side Oil Pan Gaskets, made sure they seated properly against the Bearing Caps wear the End Cork Oil Pan Gaskets will seat against them
5-Applied a Small Dab of Permatex 2 in the Corners where the End Cork Oil Pan Gaskets will seat
6-Installed the End Cork Oil Pan Gaskets in the bearing Caps, made sure htey were seated and aligned correctly Gaskets Installed Rear, Gaskets Installed Front
7-double checked all Oil Pan Gaskets to ensure holes are lined up, seated properly
8-Slowly & carefully installed the oil pan using the guide pins...
Man they work great to keep the pan straight and in line, 1.00" is optimal length when installing Oil Pan while Engine is in Car
9-Inserted 2 screws to hold and position oil pan in place.
10-Installed Slotted Round head Machine Screws .625" long, with a Flat Washer against Oil Pan, then a Split Lock Washer, gently hand tight to hold pan in place. Screwed in Place 1, Screwed in Place 2, Front bearing End Oil Pan,
11-assured everythign was lined up and in their proper location
12-Tightend up all screws
13-Doubled checked and cleaned up !! Oil Pan Installed
Looks Great !! So Happy this is done, puts me close to test firing the Engine and moving forward with my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action]. Another Check on the List of Completed !!
Need to move on the the next step...
9-23-2013
Still working on my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action]. Waiting on my Spark Plug Thread Chasing Tool to clean up the threads so I can TEst Fire and FInish the TUne-Up, so I decided to Install the Fuel Filter, Screen, & Gasket I got from The Filling Station A Few weeks back.
Some Pictures of the Process:
Close Up of Lip/ Recess for Paper Filter in Glass Bowl
Close Up of paper Filter Sitting in Glass Bowl Lip/Recess
Glass Bowl w/ Paper Filter & Gasket Ready for Install
Complete Assembly Installed & Ready
This was a pretty Quick & Easy job overall...
Took some time to look at the wiring on the 1929, I am trying to figure out HOW the wiring is supposed to be done for the headlights/ lamps on my 1929. I have the Armor Coated Wire from the NEW WIring harness routed to the front and in the wiring hold downs. I know that there is a Grommet that goes into the holes that are in the Radiator shell. These holes measure approx .781" Diameter. Here is a picture of the Wire from the Harness: Wiring for Driver's Side Headlight/ Lamp, it is three wires, with cloth insulation, as well as a metal wrap over the length. As for the Connectors, this is what I have: 3-Wire Housing Solder/ Button End, 3-Wire Housing Wire End I know the wires go thru, get soldered, like button ends for electrical connection, that is no problem. This is the Bayonet Connector Shell Shell/ Housing. I KNOw that slides on the Wire, and then slips over the 3-Wire Housing. Now I also have this piece, one end has a larger opening, and tapers to a smaller opening, we shall call this the Taper Adapter, Taper Adapter - Taper End (Large Opening) & Taper Adapter - Small Opening. Now I also was giving these, Metal Wire Looms/ Guards and told they gover over the wires to the COnnector End, basically run through the hole in the radiator shell w/ grommet, to back of headlight/ lamp. Metal Wire Looms/ Guards, They have a end cap on each end like this End Caps.
I am trying to FIGURE OUT HOW this is supposed to all go together. I have seen some with just the wire going through the Radiator Shell with the ARmour Guard, NO Metal Wire Looms/ Guards, then I have seen some with the Metal Wire Looms/ Guards installed. Also which way and how does the Taper Adapter MOunt, I know it goes on before the Boyenet COnnector, taper end towards bayonet connector or towards the wire ?? If I need the Metal Wire Looms/ Guards how are tehy secured/ mounted to the Connector End of the wire to secure them ?? and do they just run into through the grommet with extra length inside the shell for movement, or are they cut to length and stop at the grommet ??
Any Pictures of how this is SUPPOSED to go together would be greatly appreciated.
Great car !
Posted by Diggymart on 9/7/19 @ 3:48:57 PM