1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project by BearsFan315

4 minute(s) of a 636 minute read

Well ventured out to replace my trunnions...

was not as bad as I thought it would be but also not as easy as I hoped.

Worked on the Drivers side first. Removed the Hex Cap Screw that holds to the outter side support on. As JYDog described had to pry this off. Had to fight with the old Pot Metal Trunnions, yeah they broke and crumbled, but the round portion that went thru the hole in the supports was stuck...

Basically ended up removing the small brake assembly in order to drill out and clean out the rest of the trunnion stuck in the supports. In order to remove this assembly had to remove the castle nut and the front drum.  Small Brake Assembly Removed & Cleaned

then I cleaned the threads on the bolt for the brass nut, as well and cleaned & greased the moving components and related parts. Test Fit on Brass Nut I did a test fit of the New T6 Trunnions and found out that there was some interference with the brake part Trunnion Interference this Interference prevented the trunnion from being able to rotate, which is essential in adjusting the brakes, ince this is a pivot point. so to solve this I filed down the corners a bit and success. Trunnion Filed Corners once this was complete I assembled the parts back together Assembly w/o New Clevis Pin & Cotter Pin

I then reinstalled the assembly to the car. was tricky to get the assembly back in since had to find a way to keep the shoes spaced out so that the cam could go between them and still align with the two cap screws that held the assembly in. Found a Hex Coupling Nut of perfect size that solved this issue. Basically spread the shoes apart slid in the coupling nut then slid in the assembly from the back side and pushed out the coupling nut. 

Completed Assembly w/ New Trunnions

Assembly Installed

once completed, I readjusted and set the brakes. 

Then moved on to the Passenger Side, which took half the time, now that I knew what I was doing & how to do it. Installed and reset the brakes on this side.

SO Now have all NEW trunnions installed... now need to move on to finishing the brakes up.

8-4-2014

Well spent some time adjusting brakes per the instructions in the Owners manual/ Repair Manual as well as Service News from 1929 :-) think I have everything set and seems to function properly. 

TRULY want to make sure they WORK PROPERLY BEFORE I do a test drive and can NOT Stop !! that would be scary !!

Since brakes are to a complete point, still need to do a test and then install all the cotter pins in the linkages and clevis. that is ALWAYS FUN !!

I decided to tear down the bottom of the engine, remove oil pan and clean it out one more time. there was a little sludge, but I can live with that compared to what I started with !! 

Also checked the oil pump and innards while I was there. also removed the FUZZ/ Rope Seal on the rear Bearing. Hoping this eliminates or at least REDUCES the oil leak I have. put it all back together, cleaned up the area and then filled it back up with oil...

did a test fire and let it run for a few to get warmed up and circulating.

figured I would do a FINE TUNE on the 1929

so changed out to the NEW wire set I got from Marx Parts, VERY NICE SET, put in the NEW AC Delco C87 gapped at .40, per VCCA Recommendation, changed to my new coil. and fired right up. broke out the timing light and messed with the timing to get it to the recommended 18 degrees. did not sound too happy so dropped it back till it smoothed out, at about 12 degrees or so. 

decided to call it a night, and will tinker with the plug gap and timing till it purrs and runs smooth...