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6 minute(s) of a 128 minute read
12-17-2010
Thanks for reading thru it. Not sure that I have pics to show you where everything is but I'll do my best to describe it.
1) Just above the oil filter on the side of the block there is a little plate with a hole that is halfway drilled thru. Pop it off, drill it and tap it.
2) I honestly don't remember where I got the fuel rails. Most likely Speed Inc. Just make sure to find out what threads are on the end so that you can get the correct fitting for it. I've seen some that are done in standard AN and others that are shallow and require an oring fitting.
3) Oil return is going into the driver's side of the pan towards the top. Use atleast a -10 , -12 if you can get it to work.
4) PCV system is really basic. I have a pipe welded to the back of the driver's side cover and I had the front fill neck on the passenger side modified then it goes to a catch can.
5) 99 PCM should work fine. You'll need to flash it with a custom OS, get a 3 bar MAP and a tune.
3.55:1
12-18-2010
For sure there is no contact but the reason that it is so close is that I twisted up the splines in the slip yoke that (is supposed to) slide into the transmission. Right now (and in those pictures) in has my entire rear suspension in a bind and is causing the back of the car to lift up like that.
I have since discovered that it caused some other problems as it is pushing forward on everything including my crank. I'm pretty sure that I have to pull the motor and change some bearings as a result. I have a forged slip yoke on order that should be here in the next few days. I have replaced 3 standard slip yokes in the last year because I keep twisting up the splines in them but figured better the splines than the output shaft. Not anymore as I'm ready to replace this transmission. It has gone far and above the call of duty already and owes me nothing.
1-10-2011
Anyone who was at our track rental saw that I was having major struggles with traction. Usually my car hooks on low power and if I turn it up too much on the launch it hooks too much and goes up in the air. Also if you saw the video, my rear end was lifting alot on the launch. Right before I went to make my last pass I noticed that my oilpressure was down to around 30-31 psi at idle when it's usually closer to 36-37 psi hot. I decided not to make that last pass and live to fight another day. Got home without issue and with plenty of pressure while cruising and no odd sounds coming from the motor. I pulled the filter, brought it to Mike @ TEC and he told me there was definetly bearing wear happening due to the gold sheen in the oil.
My driveshaft slip yoke that slides into the transmission twisted the splines and and had my entire suspension in a bind. This is why my rear was lifting on the launch and it was jamming the entire driveline into the crank shaft. I got the main caps off tonite and here they are starting from front to back. You can see that the 3rd one is completely hosed. Thats the thrust bearing and you can see the extreme wear on the side from the crankshaftgetting jammed forward. The 4th one was about to spin and is also in bad shape. The back one didn't look all that bad.
I'm going to pull the rod caps tomorrow but I doubt I'll find anything wrong with them.
Heads, pistons, and bores all looked great.
The twisted spline problem will not happen again as this time I bought the bad boy yoke. This yoke will rip the output shaft out of the trans before twisting the splines. The transmission is a TH350 with RMVB and a HD JW 36 element sprag/drum assembly and red clutches. Everything else in it is bone stock. I couldn't tell you about how it's put together though as that's way outside of my realm of expertise (just like shortblock assembly LOL). I have replaced the input shaft and main drum assembly one time myself but I just took it apart making sure to keep everything in the same order as it came out, replaced the piece and put it back together. Parts changer style.
What I am being told and it makes sense from having been inside the trans is that the input shaft and the output shaft dont touch. Meaning that pushing on one shouldn't effect the other. I've now also been told that if the converter was ballooning, it would take out the transmission pump way before hurting the crank. So that just leaves the mains walking I guess. I'm going to see my engine builder this morning so that he can check out the stuff and see what he says. Hope to have an update tonight.
One thing to keep in mind is that this is not a race car that was loaded on a trailer to go to the track, made 3-5 passes and back on the trailer. This thing is driven alot and have been together for a year and half with atleast 8 8sec passes and she's heavy. I'm kind of bad about changing the oil also which I plan to get better at doing.
In short, no other motor that I have had has gone this fast or lasted this long. They also all came apart in an ugly way where as this is just a freshning up so to speak as no machine work will be required. As I said in another thread, the top fuel guys do this work between every round. We're talking about a $500 fix here.
Mystery solved. None of the above. Crank is bent .006.