Aaron's 76 Type LT Project

7 minute(s) of a 383 minute read

Got the fuel tank installed today. I had to drop the tank and re-route the wire over the shorter part of the tank, but other than that it went pretty smoothly. Next step is to run the fuel line to the engine bay. I have the hard lines that will get cut up to some degree, so I need to mock them up and decide where I need to cut.

5-18-2016

I got 50-60% of the fuel line installed today. As usual I underestimated the job but still got a good amount done, but I wasn't working at a world record pace or anything. I will try to install some more flex lines tonight after the little one goes to sleep.

I decided to mount the filter/regulator up high on the bottom-side of the car rather than the frame rail. I didn't really like how the filter would have mounted on the frame, so went with this location. The nice part is the filter will be on the same level as the tank fittings, so those lines should have a direct path to the tank.

For anyone curious, I am using the following parts for the fuel line install:

* The Right Stuff stainless steel fuel line (3/8", 2 pieces) -- I used ~60% of the lines, the rest will be braided line

* The Right Stuff fuel line clips, but these are available everywhere

* Earl's Performance fittings -- I used some 3/8" line to -6 AN, some braided line to -6 AN (both straight and 90*)

* I wrapped the hard line with some rubber tube to provide some extra protection once installed in the clips

A few pics of the rear line installed, minus the lines to the tank





This is where I decided to terminate the rear hard line. There will be 12-15" of flex line in between the front and rear hard lines.



Here's the front hard line section ready to go. I used all the "gravel guard" (aka spring wrap) so I need a few feet more, just to complete the look.

5-19-2016

the return line will come off the filter/regulator. There's the supply fitting and return fitting on one side of the filter/regulator and the outlet fitting to the motor on the other side.

Here are some crummy pics of the supply and the return lines connected in between the filter/regulator and the tank.



The short run of flex line in between the front and rear hard lines.

I started assembling the gauge cluster while the wife and I caught up on some shows. It was a fun change of pace after crawling around under the car the last few days (and much easier, lol).

I decided to use an aftermarket bezel versus modifying an original bezel. I sprayed the bezel with SEM Landau Black. I am pleased with the way the gauges sit in the bezel. I added a clock to the right as I always liked the original clock so wanted to have something there. The gauges are Auto Meter Sport Comp II.

I added some Painless indicator lights for the blinkers, high beams and check engine light. I still need to get the headlight switch and wiper switch sorted out.

5-20-2016

BTW, I am planning out the audio portion and discovered the doo-dads below are called "cable pants". I see them on RCA cables but never knew the name of them. I wanted to get some eventually for the speaker wires in the trunk to dress up the ends. Figured I'd share my discovery.

7-4-2016

It's been awhile since an update. My wife, son and I all got some nasty virus that was like an extended version of the flu, but not as severe. That knocked us on our butts for 2-3 weeks. I finally got some work in this past week, mostly electrical related items.

Since I am not going to run a subwoofer I wanted to get some beefy 6x9s. The ones on my list perform the best when amp'd, so I decided to construct a floating panel to mount the amp. I wanted to have easier access to the amp if it fails or I need to make adjustments. I had some U-Pol Raptor bedliner left over so I sprayed the trunk again and the amp panel, which is just 1/2" plexiglass I got from my work. The panel will be mounted using 3/8" carriage bolts that pass through the trunk divider. I made the holes more square for the bolt flange so they sit flush. They won't be visible when the amp is installed. In fact only ~1" of the panel's perimeter will be visible, which was the idea. I need to buy some locking washers so it's not fully mounted, but you get the idea.

Here's the panel:



Here's the panel loosely installed:



I have gotten some electrical items done too. I have the gauge wiring harness pretty much ready to go. I made the connecting wires longer so I could have ample room to make connections (and disconnections) away from the dash.



I removed all the un-needed wires from the Painless harness and have that ready to go. I am getting closer to the point of having to install the dash to do any further electrical connections. Same goes for the engine-side wiring. I will knock out the brake lines and exhaust before I begin installing more parts though.

7-17-2016

Progress has been slow but I was able to get the interior wires run and organized as far as possible before the dash has to go in. I can run a few 12V wires to the fuse block, but that is about it. The wires look like a mess but they are pretty well organized and should be easy to install.

I got the amp loosely installed in the trunk. I like the way it looks on the "floating" panel. I ended up only needing two carriage bolts to secure the panel to the trunk divider. I will clean up the wires when I am closer to actually connecting them.