Aaron's 76 Type LT Project

9 minute(s) of a 383 minute read

I started adding sound deadener to the cabin when I have a few minutes here and there. I figure this has to be done before I can proceed with electrical or other cabin-related tasks. I am using Second Skin Audio Damplifier and Damplifier Pro. The "Pro" is a thicker product but I had less of it, so I used up what I had and moved to the "regular" product. I will come over the top of of this product with a "Mass Loaded Vinyl Barrier" product to create an even quieter cabin (called their "Luxury Liner" product).

I am a little over 50% done with the cabin (excluding the roof). I like to cut the deadener into smaller, more manageable sections. It goes pretty fast without anything installed

I got the other side mostly done and a little extra. I have the roof, dash/firewall area and a few small spots to do.

2-11-2016

In the spirit of getting some stuff out of the way, I had the front seat covers made. While I wont be installing the seats for a while, it is a huge boost to see them. The interior of my 76 was always one of my favorite things about the car with the "hounds tooth" insert on all the seats and the door panels. I was lucky enough to find original door panels and rear seats, but the front seats were always elusive. So I got some NOS material from SMS, repop seat foams and some sacrificial seat covers in the same style. The place I used is called Pro Tops & Trim in Pasadena, TX. They did a great job.

2-12-2016

thanks, they really did a great job. I called a place called Classic Cars of Houston to see who they use for upholstery and recommended these guys. They've been in the same location for 30 years now, so that was a good sign. Their shop is tucked away in one of those business row type places and the inside is organized chaos. Fabric and supplies all over the place. It was almost an upholstery museum of sorts. You'd never know they were there and likely would never use them unless someone told you about them.

Getting a set of aftermarket seat covers to use as a pattern really helped and was a cheap way to get optimal fitment. They said they could have made the covers without them but it would have taken more time, which means more cost and possibly not having enough material. I found some closeout set of funky blue covers for like $99, so pretty cheap in the grand scheme.

I finished the sound deadener install today. I think this is as far as I am going to take it. I MIGHT install some other product I have for rattles, but that's it. I think this will get me the results I want.

It's a vinyl material in a black/white color. It's not really a true houndstooth pattern. I have some material left over if you want a small sample. I am not sure what other years had this interior style, but I know it's at least original to my 76 Type LT.  

Here's some pics of the material.

2-13-2016

I was messing around with my electric door lock set and decided to investigate the door rods while I was in the mood. The plastic clips on my door rods are a little worn so I ran across this nice replacement clip set on ebay for anyone interested. I tried mixing and matching the separate pieces but it was hard to beat the price of this set.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-COMPLET...ash=item2811ac2ab4:g:aGUAAOSw-jhUGzcU&vxp=mtr

2-14-2016

While I wait on a few things to arrive before I can tackle the AC hoses and heater hoses I decided to start reassembling the door internals, which is a task I can start and stop pretty easily.

I decided to use the power window setup by Specialty Power Windows. They seem to be well made and bolted up without any problems. I have some original, unused power window motors I will be selling soon since I decided to use an aftermarket kit.

I am also installing some power locks. I decided to use a Klassic Keyless kit. While the install is easier due to my car being apart, the install is straightforward and fits well. The actuator attaches to a bracket that is held in place via the two lower screws for the door latch assembly. Aside from the need to drill a larger hole for the actuator clips to fit into (the yellow clip in the pics below), the install was pretty much bolt-on. We'll see how well it performs, but reviews were favorable for this kit.

A few pics for anyone interested in how it goes together and installs.

2-18-2016

I rebuilt the steering shaft as one of my smaller side projects. I used this thread as a reference: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92926

That thread covers pretty much everything you need to know in order to rebuild the steering shaft, which isn't difficult (esp if you have a bench vice). The one thing I would advise is when you go to re-assemble the two pieces, consider using a pipe clamp. I tapped the two pieces together a little bit with a hammer and then finished it off with the pipe clamps. Just make sure you use padding and blocks when doing all this so you don't booger up the ends or scratch your nice paint job

The Jeep boot suggested in the above thread fits well. I had two steering shafts and took the little rubber sleeve from the other to wrap around the replacement boot.

2-20-2016

I did another small job when I had 30 minutes to spare and installed the LED brake lights. This is more of a necessity than anything else with the psychos who drive in Houston. It was easy to do. I used the Dakota Digital kit, for anyone interested. I will just need to wire the lights up when the electrical gets run.

Here's how the sit inside the tail light housing.



Pretty straightforward mounting plate on the back to hold everything in place. The lense separates from the housing after 5 screws and a tab are removed.

2-21-2016

I finally mocked up the core support and wheel well so I could run the AC hoses and get them sized up and the fittings installed. I was able to get the condenser unit assembled so at least that is out of the way when I am ready to do the final install. I had to buy a 90* fitting for the #10 AC hose and some adapters for my Sanden compressor, so I will get the fittings installed later this week after those arrive.

Here's the mock up



I clamped the beadlock crimper to my portable workbench



and VOI LA! One fitting installed



BTW, here is my core support after getting it powder coated in chassis black finish.



I will have to notch the wheel well for the compressor bracket arm, which I knew ahead of time. I will try and notch it in a nice "soft" pattern so it doesn't stand out too much.