Aaron's 76 Type LT Project

11 minute(s) of a 383 minute read

I was able to get the new retro-fit oil pan installed, along with the retro-fit engine mounts and the clam shell mounts on the frame. I should be able to install the drivetrain next weekend when I have some extra help. Fingers crossed I don't run into any major problems.

The oil pan kit is Holley 302-2 and the motor mounts on the engine block are Hooker 12613HKR.

Boring pic of the oil pan installed

12-2-2015

Last night I got most of the accessory drive kit installed, which was not too daunting. I am missing the spacer for the bottom idler pulley but I can install that after the drivetrain is installed.

I will attempt to drop it in this weekend. Then I can start on other tasks.

12-4-2015

I would be happy with it going 20 mph at this point, lol!

I am actually enjoying the project as much as I have in a while, mainly because the body work grind was just so monotonous. I still have to cut & buff some panels, but I cannot do that with the little one here until I can take a week off work when the in-laws are watching him. So that means I can tinker with all the mechanical stuff, which has been fun.

I got out the steering linkages and gear box last night to install once the drivetrain is dropped in. After that it might start looking like an actual car. Then I can move on to the brakes, fuel system, etc. I plan on doing electrical very last.

12-11-2015

I did some more remedial work today, this time installing the steering components. I suppose it's more remedial since the front sheet metal is off the car. I am using AC Delco steering components and a fast ratio steering box from Custom Works. I need to paint the pitman arm and get some bolts to install the idler arm. Everything is loosely installed now so I will get it dialed in more when the engine is installed.

12-12-2015

I decided to drop the drivetrain in tonight. Due to time constraints I was only going to get the drivetrain in place and drop it in tomorrow but it was going so well that I went the rest of the way. It's a nice emotional boost to get this out of the way.







Maybe the best part is the shifter fits just about where it's supposed to, so that was a nice feeling.

12-13-2015

A couple of better shots of the engine installed fully. Now I can create a list of "tinker" items to do when I have some time here or there.

12-14-2015

thanks, when he goes down to sleep I get to it! Having a child gives me a greater appreciation for time management  I made sure to read all these installation manuals many times over to make the process as quick as possible.

It's a Keisler RS600, which is basically a modified TKO 600. They got bought up by Silver Sport Transmissions. But it would be the same kit as the auto-to-manual kit Hurst Drivelines sells, for instance.

The only thing I had to do was install a 4-speed hump, which I put in the stock location per measurements I got from some other threads. That's the good thing about these transmissions in there isn't any need to modify the tunnel.

12-20-2015

Nothing too exciting but made some more progress.

I got the tranny crossmember installed and the motor mount bolts installed. I had to get some 5.5" long bolts online since I am using aftermarket motor mounts. I also got the headers test fitted and they fit nicely. These are Hooker headers specifically for LS installs in the 75-81 2nd gens. I used the Holley motor mounts that match up with these headers but did not use the Holley crossmember, which I didn't think I would need.

I am going to have these headers recoated (a la Jet-Hot Jet type coating) since the factory coating doesn't hold up well from what I have read.

A few pics for reference in case anyone is curious.

12-22-2015

I decided to begin installing the sub-frame connectors for no particular reason. These are the PTFB connectors. They fit nicely and just needed to get clamped to bring the metal closer to the frame where I did the welding.  

I got the driver side connector 90% welded in and will do the passenger side whenever my son allows me to

I taped some aluminum foil along the rocker and bottom of door just to be safe. I did 4 layers.

2-1-2016

I have been focusing on getting the AC system installed, at least as much as I can do. It's mostly been the evaporator unit and getting the hoses run through the firewall. I sent my radiator core support to get powercoated so I will look to install that so I can get some more AC items installed, but that is secondary to what I am doing now. I want to get the motor electronics and some other things installed before I install the core support.

These pics are mostly for reference for anyone thinking about donig a Vintage Air install. It's obviously much easier doing this without the front sheetmetal and the interior installed

Below pic shows the hoses coming though the old heater core opening. These will be mostly hidden in between the fender and the wheel well and will enter the engine bay around the battery area.

I installed some Second Skin Audio sound deadening under the evaportator. This is the 4th project I have done using this brand sound deadener and it's an excellent product. The best example of how well it works is how I installed some in the outer wheel wells of my current DD and it's still there like the day I installed it. That was nearly 10 years ago. But in general it's a great idea to add something under the evaporator while you can.



Below pic shows the hoses entering into the cabin via the kick panel. Vintage Air provides a baffle that sits in the fresh air opening of the kick panel. Then you attach the baffle and kick panel using the OEM screws. I would highly advise protecting the baffle with some tape during the install process as it seems a little prone to scuffs/scratches. I used blue painter's tape and it worked fine.

I decided to run the hoses into the cabin and then attach them to the evaporator since running the hoses through the grommets in these baffles can be a pain, esp the #10 AC hose that is thicker. I left the hoses a little long going into the cabin, attached them to the evaporator and then slowly pushed them back through the baffle and pulled them through the firewall baffle until the evaporator was in place. The AC hose ends in the engine bay will eventually be cut to length and the ends crimped to create a custom fit.



See my note on the below pic about installing a bolt for the bracket to attach to if you decide to smooth your firewall or add a panel like I did. Normal install calls for a bolt/screw to go though the firewall into the bracket, but this was not an option for me. So I removed the head off a bolt and welded it to the firewall from the inside. The bolt would go where the top-right factory hole is located for cars that had factory AC.



Here's the hoses coming through the kick panel with the evaporator close to its final location. This is the first interior panel I have installed. I need to protect it with some thick paper or packing foam. The hoses will be concealed with the "half moon" cover that I will install later.



I will need to run the power window/door wiring through the door jamb grommet and the wire for the dome light switch, but those are accessible with the kick panel in place. I can move the kick panel some if needed to access these holes.

There is only one bolt on the firewall, thankfully. The bracket in the front attaches to the dash interior metal using two sheet metal screws (which I have not done yet). The evaporator doesn't weight much so you don't need much to secure it in place. The hoses also give some support.

The below pic might explain things better. Notice the bracket on the back firewall has two holes - the bottom hole is for factory AC cars and the top hole for cars w/o factory AC. The hole in the bracket I had to use was threaded so I drilled it out to the proper size. I think there are 4 holes in the firewall where the factory suitcase attached to the firewall, so the top-right hole you'd use should be obvious. That's the one you want to use to attach a bolt to. I just welded it on using my HF magnetized braces to hold it in place.

2-2-2016

I crossed a small item off the list by installing the front sway bar. This is the PTFB sway bar with adjustable end links (which are not completely installed yet). I figure I can do little tasks like this when I have 30-60 minutes to spare.