Accord325 Dyno Progress and Build

4 minute(s) of a 88 minute read

I'll make it work, always do. I was going to go with a shorter one but wanted as much air as possible to be pulling in.

Take a look at this link (post #15 is the best shot). This is how I thought, and wanted the intake to be. Like a long SRI tucking behind the battery. I have air slots notched out in the fog light area, and will be putting in one of those carbon fiber air scoops. The long SRI would have been perfect. I'll see how this one fits. You will see a big difference bet tween these intakes. My intakes 3" piping is extended way out, while a whole lot less 5" pipe was used.
http://www.v6performance.net/forums/...tall-dyno.htmlOh and got (4) plugs in, waiting on the last (2). Parts will be installed this weekend and hopefully Dyno the following weekend.

11-1-2013

It definitely runs cooler then the Stock IM. I know because I installed it today. Warning... This post may get long.

Install - The Runners were a bit$% to get off for some reason, went on fine. While I was taking the runners off one fell and it the Sensor that goes into the Block, directly underneath the Runners. WHAT IS THAT SENSOR CALLED ?ummm..because it broke.

After all was said and done it looked amazing.
Test Drive - Started the car and the Idle jumped to 2k and sat there, did not come down. The CE light was on and I said ohhh $hit and shut the car off. Looked under the hood and forgot to plug the TPS into the TB. Okay did that, started the car up and it hit 2k and dropped immediately to 700-800 rpm, NICE!!!
Lets Drive - Idle surge was immediate but nothing bad. I would throw it in neutral and it would rev up to 2-2.3k then drop to 1k, every time it would do this 3 times then drop to normal idle. After about 30mile the CE light came on. Still running the same. That was the extent of my 50mile test drive.

Test Drive 2 - CE light still on, tried WOT twice both while rolling in 3rd. Throttle response is amazing before 50% throttle, then it goes to hell. Sluuuugggish beyond 50%. With the CE light still on my mind I said this is enough and went to get the code ran. Well, I had 16 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Misfire all 6 Cylinder (that's 6 of 16 and some repeated), knock sensor (forgot what he said about it), the other were ABS (low fluid,which is full) and ABS sensor. Ohhh brother. Started the car for the guy, it hit 2k rpm then dropped to normal ideal. Just listening to the engine we both came to the same conclusion that the engine didn't sound good, its sound healthy and great! With that thought on my mind the spark plugs came up. They are NGK Iridium that is OE and all were inspected before installation. Then it lead me back to the broken sensor...????

Test Drive 3 - Pull out of AutoZone and all is the same... Or is it. I reset the ECU at Autozone and now the car when thrown into neutral wont spike the RPM but now holds it at 2k until I come to a complete stop. Shift between gears suck, if I shift at 3k it holds it there and I can feel my clutch complaining. Now there is just no drop in RPM between gears.

This is where I am. I hope you guys can lend some knowledge as to what can be done or what you think it is. And to clarify, I am not saying these parts are defective or broken, just not working right currently. If the car was running as it did the first drive, I would be happy as hell. I hope Paul will chime in here.