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7 minute(s) of a 162 minute read
1-8-2007
Yay!!! I got my beasty back on the road!!!! Ok... but first i must say, people of an mechanically opinionated nature should look no futher at this project. I'm a student - so im on a budget i'm also impacient - so i dont like waiting for other people to do things if it looks too simple and frankly although idealy i'd have liked my last motor to last a bit longer (2 months lol) - i'm not too fussed, this engine has only gotta last a yr or so till i've built my 1071 dream motor Plus the fact you can pick up 998's for free, so sod it..... here goes...
How to build a fast 998 engine in you're garage with help from a big hammer and a dremel
Firstly i got a GT box off a mate £35 - BARGAIN
I split and rebuilt it with hardened baulk rings (and gave it a bloody good clean!!) The reason for the GT box was for the close ratios, and because it was off a mate, i couldnt resist Also re-fitted the 4.1 final drive
Next i stripped down my spare block, this time including taking out the pistons+rods, and the crank. Then set to work with the good ol' dremel, cutting some beautiful pockects - okay, so i may have slipped a tiny bit - but it's nothing bad (no really trust me - its fine ) Then i re-fitted the crank with new bearings, and then the pistons went back in after scraping a large proportion of the carbon off the top of them with a stanley blade the pistons went in with the original rings, and after measuring with a feeler guage they are perfectly fine - so don't diss (if they wernt broke, dont fix em ) The con-rods went back on the crank with new bearings too
The two where put together and the lightened fly went back on with my new rally clutch As did the 286cam, but this time with 2deg offset key, as i think it was because i used a 4 last time and thats why the exhaust valve got friendly with the piston I did time it properly - to 106deg, but i think its probly something to do with the fact that its a 998 that its not the same timing as a 1275. by the way - too all the people that say dont bother with the tensioner on a duplex - i measured the degree of slack in mine - and its possible to be out by 5deg!!! so i'm sticking with it on!!
Then the head was taken apart and new valves where used for chamber 4, the rest where all just re-seated, for peace of mind.
Poped it all back in and all was go go
The new motor feels great!! I cut the pockets a bit deeper this time, and i also took more time making sure there is no way on earth they are near the valves. The gearbox feels great and really tight and direct with the new baulk rings, and the closer ratio works soo much better with the cam and the final drive. The cam itself isn't too bad to be fair, with the slightly different timing. Its better than it was at 0deg offset, but still fairly punchy like it was at 4deg, so im happy The best bit though is the rally clutch. A normal vetro clutch has springs to dampen the force - this plate doesnt!! Its nearly impossible to slip, and it disengages rite (and i mean it) at the top of the pedal. I've had to move the clutch stop futher up because i kept pushing the pedal down to where i used to, and then side stepping it, not ideal way to treat the new plate. So bringin the stop up higher means im not letting the plate slam together as ferociously....
.... all is good in my world now! , next job is to fit all the suspension and geometry kit thats sitting in my room and get to a RR to find out how much power this little beaut' is putting out
Love Mini Coupes! My best friend has one.
Posted by Diggymart on 4/12/19 @ 1:35:23 PM