1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project by BearsFan315

4 minute(s) of a 636 minute read

spent Friday night chasing ground on headlamps and testing/priming the fuel pump from Test Fire ONE failure.

got up this morning, went out to garage, prepped everything, and was ready to test fire. but it was a NO GO, as the key in the electrolock would not turn. key went in easily, and lock would travel slightly in and out about 1/8" or so BUT the key would NOT turn :( i jumped on here, and read up and went through my notes. gave the lock a spritz of oil in the key slot and let it sit for a few to soak in and through. then put a dab of oil on the key and worked it in and out of the slot. still no luck. so decided to tinker with other things and let it sit longer. still no luck.

called up Chipper to have a chat with him about electrolocks. (Thanks Chipper) end result was pulling out the electrolock assembly and shipping it out to him to take a gander. so hopefully he can see what is going on, possibly fix it for me. just another trial day for me on the 1929. seems like it does NOT want to run, well start, was running and driving when i got it, but things some up.

so close, but every time something else comes up and stops me from running...

well not much else i can do for now, just have to sit and wait for Chipper to get the electrolock and diagnose. was given a cheat, to get the car running so i could tune and prep until i get the electrolock back.

my understanding is the electrolock in the 1929 breaks the circuit from the coil to the distributor. so IF i installed a small machine screw into the distributor following the same sequence as i would for the electrolock for isolation then connect a lead from this bolt to a simple on/off switch. then connect a lead from the other side of the switch to the wire that connects to the electrolock under the dash. it seems that this switch would serve as the on /off that the electrolock does now. then i could test fire the car IF everything else is in order and functioning properly. just need to make suire the switch can handle the current.

well got up this morning and decided to bypass the electrolock so made up a simple wire. made it long enough to go from distributor to dash and put a lug on one end, and a spade on the other, as i found a few dc switches in the garage electronics pile. and made another short cable to jump from electrolock wire to the switch. used a small 10-32 screw to hold the electrolcok lug to the new small wire lug, then taped it off to keep it from shorting or hitting anything.

used my spark tester to validate if i had spark or not, switch on spark, switch off no spark.

10-32 screw used to simulate the electrolock connection at the distributor

electrolock wire connected to the switch wire

back of switch

dash side of switch with quick custom switch mount for easy access