1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project by BearsFan315

4 minute(s) of a 636 minute read

what method of mounting is general accepted/ correct for the license plates on a 1929 Chevrolet.

i just got a set of nicely restored 1929 Virginia plates and do NOT want to damage them by any means !!

was thinking some black oxide hardware, or black painted hardware, slotted head screws, along with a washer and nut on each one. but was thinking of placing a small thin rubber washer behind the head of the screw as well as the plate to mounting bar. this way the paint would be better protected. or maybe cork washers :)

8-30-2019

picked up a Gano inline coolant filter, figured i would give it a try and see if it works. also figured if there is any debris in the engine, head, etc that the filter will catch it before it hits the radiator. also will be cool to see the coolant flowing through the clear tube. another perk is you will be able to see if there are air bubbles in it as well.

picked this up from Gano Filters which is basically Restoration Supply Company.

also got some distilled water and green antifreeze.

basically enough to do 2 rounds if needed. or 1 time and some spare :)

did 1 gallon green and almost 2 gallons water.

9-1-2019

well spent most of the day doing final checks and then trying to test fire the 1929...

went down my list and validated everything, got everything cheeked off, and put fuel in the car. spun it over a few times, only for a few seconds at a time, then a minute rest to pump fuel to bowl. after several cycles still no fuel. so we started to diagnose the problem. tried to put fuel in pump and then go from there, nothing. so we double checked everything was sealed at the connections, still no go. pulled fuel line from pump and was able to siphon gas from tank easily. so that is a check. did a vacuum test on pump and got no reading ?!? needle did not even really move. so tried the pressure (outlet) and basically the same thing. we pull the pump double checked and on the bench we were getting 5-6 inHg on the vacuum and about 2-2.5 psi on the outlet for pressure. we could tell the cam lobe and the fuel pump arm are worn some. we did a test and put the pump back on the car with NO gasket bt the pump and the block. and did a test we got about 2-2.5 inHg and on outlet about 1.0 psi, but not enough to actually siphon fuel from the tank to the pump.

figured we were going to need to weld and build up the fuel pump arm, so we called it a day and went to get some dinner. i spent last night searching and reading post on here about this issue, and seems the general answer is to TIG weld and build up the fuel pump arm and try that, if that does not work then have to build up and grind the lobe on the cam for the fuel pump which sounds like it is EXPENSIVE !!. Now the fun begins trying to 1 find a local shop that can do a quality TIG weld and 2 one that is actually willing to do a small job of this nature. seems NO ONE around here wants to do anything unless it is a large government contract and they an make money. not many people that are willing to help out a fellow car guy on the side. its a shame...
question, i assume the arm that needs to be TIG welded is simple steel ?? nothing fancy or exotic. and based on the numbers should be around .400 bear rivet.

From what i read the proper numbers for the pump should be:
output pressure 1.50 - 2.00 PSI
inlet vacuum 8-10 Hg

though it was a failure we learned a lot, and more projects coming up...