1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project by BearsFan315

9 minute(s) of a 636 minute read

Thanks, my plan on the Oil Pan Gasket, I have made 4 Guide Pins, took 4 .250-20 UNC bolts about 2.00" long, cut off the heads, ground and rounded that end off. This way i can thread them into the four corners, so when I install the pan i know that I am going straight up and even, as not to disturb or move the gaskets. With it being a 4 piece gasket set it is my understanding that the side pieces must be installed first as the end of the end corks but up against them, then use permatex 2 in the corners to seal them, but just a dab. Also have been told to Wet the end corks and wrap them around a can and let dry to preform them into shape for easier installation, also that I can use a thin coat of grease to hold the gaskets against the block surface, Or could use a thin film of the permatex 2, i just want to ensure that IF i have to replace the gasket again, that I can easily remove it and not have to clean off the permatex. Previous owner did away with the cork gasket and opted to use a black rtv to seal the pan on, granted it leaked on both bearing ends, it was a royal pain to remove, took time and patience, then more time to clean the surfaces !! Think i made up a few new words in the process

As for the Fuel tank and carburetor, it is a fresh clean tank. Also the system was drained & flushed recently. I also bought the filter from The Filling Station that drops in the Glass fuel bowl for an added level of security and Filtration.

Landman...

Thanks for the info, I have actually heard about doing this. The pictures really help. How can I spin the Engine Backwards ?? Understand that my Engine and all is Still installed in the Car, Fully connected. 

While I have the pan dropped I am also going to prime and paint it. In cleaning out my oil pan to prep it for priming and painting, realized that some of the dipper trays have pin holes in them, looks like from rusting/ sitting around during rebuild from previous owner(s) ?!? 

So Now I am looking for a way to either fix/ repair my pan or buy one from a fellow Member... Took it by the local Radiator Shop here and the guys says he can braze/ solder/ weld them up really nice with no problem. He gave me a great price, so I am going to see what he can do. They specialize in Radiators, building, repairing, desigining, etc... They restore antique radiators as well, plus they custom build heat exchangers from little guys to monsterous large ones for large diesels and ships. They are also going to dip it, which will strip it back to bare metal.

Holes in Dipper Trays:

Dipper Holes 01

Dipper Holes 02

Dipper Holes 03

nimogjohn...

I am in Portsmouth/ Norfolk area, far SouthEastern Tip by the Mouth of the Chesapeake Bay.

Yeah most of the cranks will need to be replaced, as well as some of the tracks. I have found a few places that actually carry them, figured I am going to hold off on replacing them till i get to the interior, unless I come across a steal of a deal on a set !! First priority is to get the eingine assembled and running right, then will set the brakes. Has a compltely new brake job, as I was informed when I bought it. So I am going to build a brake tool based on Chevrolets Specifications for one, also see that I can buy one from a few shops as well, but being in the Mechanical Design Engeering Field I think it would be more fun to design one out and have one made.

As for the Roof Top found out that Hampton Coach (now part of LeBarron Bonney) carry a complete kit for the roof, as well as the kit for the interior ALL THE WAY. Actually got the sample kit from them with samples, colors, and pricing. And there is a local guy here that can do the installation as well.

As a side note, while i was in the lower half of the engine, I checked out what was in there and it's condition.

Here is what I Found:

1-Missing both Oil Pump Suction Pipe Screen Part No 835579 & Oil Pump Suction Pipe Spring Part No 346804, but talked with a local supplier about a few hours from me, up in Glen Allen, VA and he actually had a set of NOS on hand, so I picked it up and now in my possession. 

2- Several of the Connecting Rods were so loose that i could move them EASILY by hand, so have set teh clearances on ALL 6 Connecting Rods per the manual. Funny part is the engine Turns easier my hand then before.

Also checked the two oil pockets/ reservoirs on the bearing ends to make sure they help oil, as well as the ball checks and the flow paths to ensure oil coild freely flow.

I am waiting on hardware, had to order some .250-20 UNC Round Head Slotted Machine Screws, all the local stores only carry the phillip head type, so ordered what I really wanted and original to the car. Also waiting on local shop to clean & fix up the pan, then I will prime and paint it. Also have a new Oil Pan Gasket in Hand.

Some Picts of the Oil Pan:

Oil Pan 01

Oil Pan 02

Oil Pan 03

Oil Pan 04

As for the Side of the Engine...

I have removed the Push Rod Cover, it has also been sent to the local Radiator shop, it will be Stripped so that I can prime and paint it up. Also have a new Gasket as well. I plan to install the gasket to the cover using Permatex 2, using a thin coat. THen clean up the block surface and reinstall the cover with new gasket.

All the rods look great, none of them seem bent.

Here are some shots of the cover & gasket:

Push Rod Cover w/ Gasket

Push Rod Cover Gunk

Push Rod Cover Gasket Backside

Push Rod Cover Gunk 2

Push Rod Cover Rough Clean Up

As for the Top of the Engine...

Removed the valve cover, as I will eventually need to set and adjust the valves. But for now I have cleaned up the Cover, and sent it to be cleaned so that it can be primed & painted. Someone along the way punched holes in the cover for venting, I am going to have the holes cleaned up and welded so that it will look original.

Also noticed that I need to get some wicks, as there are NONE !! 1929 Oil Wicks: MIA

Ordered the wicks when i ordered my gaskets. Need to remove the rocker arms and install the wicks per the manual.

Detail of Oil Wick from Manual: 1929 Oil Wick Detail

Already have a New Valve Cover Gasket, just need to get things done so I can close up the top half.

Checking the current Timing before I start the above Plan of Action (underlined Text is a Picture Link)

When I have Cylinder 1 @ TDC (under Compression Stroke), I should be able to see the 12 deg Timing Mark in the window, IF the timing is relatively close, if not it should at least be just outside the window ?? Is this correct ?? Thinking before i set the timing this would be a good way to check to see if the timing is even close ?? or is there a better way to do this ??

So I have piston 1 set at TDC top dead center, under compression (confirmed with compression guage) Flywheel Timing Mark @ 12deg, (Freshly painted timing marks for visibility). Now when I have this set where should my Rotor be pointed (Distributor) ?? My thought it should be pointed towards Plug 1. based on the 1929 Repair Manual and vairous postings on here the Firing order should be 1-5-3-6-2-4, and this is the order the plugs should be connected with Plug 1 being located approximately at 5 O'clock, going clockwise for the remainder. Looking like this: Distributor Firing Order Diagram however this is where my Rotor/ Distributor Sits with this configuration: Rotor Location at TDC & Rotor Removed at TDC Looks like it is getting ready to fire Number 6 !! Well in my case with the mixed up wiring would be firing number 3 :/

Am I Correct so far: YES or NO ?!?

If so I found one issue already, that being that they have the Number 3 & Number 6 plugs reversed, so they are currently firing 1-5-6-3-2-4, which may be a major cause in Rough Running & Sounding and the knocking/ tapping hopefully was from improper bearing clearances which i have already addressed and fixed.

So looks like I need to pull out Distributor and rotate 180 degrees, so that it is pointing at Number 1 not Number 6. 

Swapping the wire is cake, only takes a few seconds.

It is amazing that the engine ran, but hey... hoping it runs smoother once i get it all done and back together.

End result would be to have piston 1 at TDC (Compression Stroke) timing window reading 12 deg, and distributo rotor pointing at the number 1 Plug Wire.

This should get me really close in the Ball Park. Once I get it all back together & running I will Fine Tune the Timing. Still things to do on my Plan of Action List Above. 

Trying to keep moving forward, while I am waiting on parts, pieces, etc...