1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project by BearsFan315

5 minute(s) of a 636 minute read

unfortunately did not have any time to work on the car last night, had an update meeting for hte upcoming AACA Grand Nationals... trying to get all the ducks in a row as the meet is about 30 days out !!  

did have some time this morning to go out and tinker. i put in the 6v battery (was on tender all night), turned the key, hit the accelerator pedal a few times, and then hit hte starter switch. it turned about a quarter turn and stopped (compression). grabbed the 12v off the tender, jumped it over to the 6v, hit the starter and fired right up. rand for a minute or two, died when i tried to accelerate the then engine slowly. know timing and all is NOT perfect. hit hte starter and fired right back up. let it idle for a few minutes and get up to temp. smell the paint, oil, and lube burning off and out the engine. 

short video of this here:

wondering if my rebuilt oil pump is working: 

after warmup went in and adjusted the valves, tried the 6v alone but it can not spin through a compression stroke, jumped the 12v and fired right up.

If i have time tonight will fire it back up and tweak the tuning some, get it in a happy place. 

timing was rough set per VCCA info:

I will also hook it up to my old school meter, and see what the RPM and Dwell are.

4-15-2022

This is how i have set several of these 194 inline 6

set the point in the window so that the U|C mark on the flywheel it lined up, when number one is at compression stroke, set the distributor to point to number one plug (screw on the distributor housing for reference) line up oil pump to distributor, and seat distributor fully, rotate distributor to points fully open, set points to .018", then install cap, sires, plugs, etc...  rotate  distributor slightly counterclockwise so that the Grease Cup is about 1/2" - 3/4" or so from the engine block.  

works like a charm every time

decided i was going to do a test...

last night i dropped in the NEW 6v Optima and hit the accelerator a few times, and hit the starter button, car spun over and fired up, slow idle then settled in once warmed up.

went out this morning, and decided to try the OLD 6v Optima, it spun quarter turn and stopped, i hit it again and spun around slowly, then car fired off and was running. 

let the car idle and warm up a bit. then adjusted the idle down and settled in around 350 RPM or so per my meter. still ahs a slight hesitation if you hit the accelerator, but will work that out when i have time to tinker more. 

tinkered with the idle and got it around 350ish

slight hesitation on rev up

there is a whining, sounds like the water pump or maybe the generator

5-2-2022

got some free time this weekend, and went through and reset & adjusted the brake system

ensured everything was secure and decided to take it out for initial drive around the block. drive went well, rode fine, accelerated and braked nicely. One thing i noticed was as the engine revved up there was air in the coolant. hoping it was an air pocket, but it never went away. only drove about a 1/2 mile or so around the block. when i got home check gauges and used my temp gun, everything was in range. i shot a small video of the issue, at idle seems to be fine, but when revved up or running you can clearly see the air bubbles !! and at higher revs ay 1200 - 1500 looks like carbonated water !!  also the whine is easily heard and increases with the revs of hte engine. 

used my stethoscope and seems like it is coming from the water pump, this is a Brand New out of the Box water pump, bearing type. i went back over the engine, tightened all the hose clamps, retorqued the head, it has been through several dozen heat cycles. and still issue persist. 

i plan to remove the drive belt and see if the whine goes away. 

wondering IF they air could be sneaking in past the water pump shaft/seal ? there are no visible traces of coolant leaking anywhere.