LQ4 into a 3rd Gen/1972 Nova by frojoe

By diyauto
( 5 )

3 minute(s) of a 891 minute read

6-22-2009

LSfan70s... this thread was supposed to be my post-build thread!!! I tried detailing as much of the already-completed (or so I thought) conversion in text, because I didn't even own a digital camera at the time to take pics during all the work...

If you read through the text, it should give you the jist of what I did, although of course this has turned into a ridiculous project now, as stuff normally goes. Don't hesitate to ask me any questions you my have!!

The MC is a "MBM" GM-application power master cylinder. It is cast aluminum, not titanium (I wish!!!) but it is still much lighter than the boat-anchor iron MC that came stock... http://www.mbmbrakeboosters.com/Mast...-1/8-Bore.html

What happens when you're too lazy to move your car to get at the engine which you need to weight the front end when you don't have a spring compressor?? You have to use substitute weights! And by the way, separating ball joints sucks...

Click the image to open in full size.


6-27-2009

So I guess upgrading to aftermarket control arms is a good idea, if not for the improved camber/caster gain then certainly for the Delrin bushings....

Click the image to open in full size.
So as far as I can see, there appears to be minimal welds length-wise on my subframe, mainly just folded-over steel...

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Only welds I can find are where the two cross-members are welded to the "frame rails", quality looking stuff I'll say...

Click the image to open in full size.

SO, the question is, should I go through the trouble of welding up the weld-less seams on the frame rails?

I was also thinking about maybe boxing in the bottom of the front cross-member...

Click the image to open in full size.

And maybe box the connecting piece between the front & back crossmembers, maybe even weld in two more pieces, one on each side of the center connector...

Click the image to open in full size.

Now I can't afford/don't want to buy an aftermarket subframe. I think the stock one should be able to do just fine, but I want to make it as stiff as possible. This will be a daily driver eventually, but I plan on flogging the crap out of it on the road track as well.

What are the opinions on said welding mods to the subframe? Straight up not worth it? From my engineering experience/schooling, a little bit of metal here and there connecting stuff and boxing C-channels, etc can go a long way in making stuff more rigid, and I would think the fab work/weight of extra metal could be worth it. What do you all think??



Comments

Wow thanks for sharing!

Posted by Diggymart on 3/3/19 @ 12:40:25 AM

Slick ride!

Posted by diyauto on 6/27/16 @ 7:51:32 PM