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8 minute(s) of a 383 minute read
3-27-2016
I decided to get some self-fusing tape and in the words of my wife...this stuff is fabulous! Good call to those who suggested this stuff.
I got the larger wire loom in and re-taped the harness where it goes through the firewall. I started re-taping the joints I un-taped when I was doing some wire re-routing.
This is one of the re-taped joints, which isn't totally done yet. This self-fusing tape is strong and has a nice look.
I also decided to start putting the brakes on because....why not??
The front brakes are 13" (1.25" thickness) Coleman rotors with Wilwood hats. The calipers are US Brake F88i quad-piston. Keith @ Custom Works modified the original hubs to accept this brake setup. If these things stop 1/2 as well as they look then I should be good.
4-2-2016
I got the rear brakes installed after some hiccups, which were my doing. I am running 11" one-piece Wilwood hubs and the center hole was too small for the axle flange. I got the center holes on the brake hubs increased once and it was not enough so I had the holes increased a second time and it did the trick. I had to shim the driver side e-brake assembly/caliper bracket ~1/16" outward so the caliper was centered properly.
All four brake assemblies are now installed so the next steps are the form the brake lines and install the e-brake cables. I will likely install the exhaust before the e-brake cables so I know what I need to do to clear the exhaust.
Here's the e-brake assembly/caliper bracket
Here's the brake assembly installed. The calipers are US Brake, like the front.
4-3-2016
I need to shorten a few of the wires on the LS harness which means I had to order some Metri-Pack terminals and seals. In the meantime I started wrapping the other wires in Painless ClassicBraid. The intersections are wrapped with black self-fusing tape (did I mention this stuff is awesome?).
I still need to secure the wires to the fuel rail, firewall, etc.
4-4-2016
Yeah, the more I looked at the plastic loom the more I wanted to do something else to dress up the wires. I saw someone else who installed the Power Braid and that was the motivation I needed. I liked the flat, cloth-like appearance of the Classic Braid.
4-9-2016
I got most of the engine harness wires shortened (O2 sensor wires, CAM wire, alternator wire), the crank wire lengthened and the wire braid installed. I cannot do anything at this time with the fuse block wire or the MAF wire, so I will move to the cabin and mount the ECM and get the gas pedal and diagnostic plug wires shortened and situated.
I zip tied the wires to the fuel rail for now but it actually looks better than I had thought it would. I will see if I need to secure it any further with wire clamps. I will definitely secure some other wires using wire clamps, especially the wires along the firewall.
4-19-2016
So I decided I did not like the factory fuel rail and went with some aftermarket Holley rails for a cleaner look. I need to run the lines, but will wait until I run the main fuel lines to do that. I also ditched the intake cover for now, which I think looks much cleaner. I am looking at some coil covers to complete the look, but that is not urgent. It will be something clean and black.
I decided to swap the upper leaf spring shackles with the Delrin kit, which some others advised to do since I am running the composite leaf springs. I also decided to install some bolt-on coilovers on the front, which I will get done soon. The A-arms are ready for me to install the coilovers. The reason for this change was the changes I have made since the original suspension plan has lightended the front end a lot, so regular coil springs and Koni shocks would probably mean the front end would sit too high.
This means I am going to sell my coil springs (SBC version from Custom Works) and my Koni shocks (all 4) if anyone is interested They have 0 miles on them. I was re-painting the Koni shicks in black since red clashed with the black theme, but otherwise they are brand new shocks.
4-30-2016
I got the engine wiring harness mounted inside the cabin, got the ECU mounted and got the HVAC evaporator mounted. I wrapped the wire loom with anti-rattle pad from Second Skin Audio. This was a bigger PITA than I had expected, but I am glad I got it done. I used "nyloc" nuts and lock washers to make sure these things don't come loose later. I got some stainless steel wire loom clamps off ebay to hold everything in place.
I had to get a few more wire terminals so I can shorten the gas pedal and install the starter solenoid wire.
I am going to tackle the fuel system next. I bought a gently used Rick's Tanks fuel tank from another member on the site for the LS. It was made for the 75-81 and has the width has been reduced for a mini-tub, which I am not doing. So I will have a little smaller fuel tank (like 18 gal). It already has a Walbro 255 in-tank fuel pump. I am looking at one option for the venting system, which I will know more in a few weeks.
5-14-2016
I've been piddling around but wanted to share a few pics of some pic-worthy work.
I got the fuel tank pump and sender unit wired up at the tank so I can get the tank installed and plumbed.
I had to swap out the lower control arms so I could use coil overs. I went ahead and swapped out the upper control arms with some adjustable SPC arms.
This is cool ?
Posted by Diggymart on 1/27/21 @ 4:16:49 PM