DIY Rear Suspension Removal and Installation by phollero

By diyauto
( 3 )

7 minute read

DIY Rear Suspension Removal and Installation


Compliments of phollero @ www.clublexus.com


4-15-2007


Here is what I did for the rear suspension remove and install. I replaced my stock original shocks and springs with KYB GR2 shocks and RSR lowering springs. They lowered about 1 3/4 inches.


If you are interested in the front suspension install, see my other post here:

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-1st-gen-1993-1997/275482-instructions-for-front-suspension-installation.html


You will need a spring compressor, ratchet set, wrench set, door panel puller, torque wrench and an optional impact wrench. 


Remember to have your alignment checked after doing suspension work.


I followed the Lexus service manual with the exception of the brake caliper, which the manual said to remove but I did not. You'll see pictures of how I got the shock out without taking off the calipers.


Lets begin...


REMOVAL

1. REMOVE LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT TRIM FRONT

COVER AND FLOOR MAT



Use a panel removal tool and pry off the 4 fasteners on top.



Remove the trunk mat and pry off the fasteners at the bottom.



Here's what's behind the luggage compartment trim.




2. REMOVE REAR WHEEL Torque: 103 N·m (1,050 kgf·cm, 76 ft·lbf)

Jack up the car at the rear cross member (do not lift by the differential near it)



Support both sides with jack stands at the jack points listed in the owner's manual



3. REMOVE REAR BRAKE CALIPER (I DID NOT DO THIS, though it is easier to get the shock out of the wheel well without the caliper)

(a) Remove the 2 bolts and brake caliper from the rear axle

carrier.

Torque: 104 N·m (1,065 kgf·cm, 77 ft·lbf)

(b) Support the brake caliper securely.


4. DISCONNECT REAR STABILIZER BAR LINK

Remove the nut and disconnect the stabilizer bar link from the

No.2 lower suspension arm.

Torque: 44 N·m (450 kgf·cm, 33 ft·lbf)





5. REMOVE SHOCK ABSORBER WITH COIL SPRING

(a) Remove the nut and bolt on the lower side of the shock

absorber.

Torque: 137 N·m (1,400 kgf·cm, 101 ft·lbf)

HINT:

At the time of installation, after stabilizing the suspension,

torque the nut.




(b) Loosen the nut in the middle of the suspension support.

NOTICE:

Do not remove it.

Torque: 27 N·m (280 kgf·cm, 20 ft·lbf)




(c) Remove the 3 nuts




(d) Remove suspension support seat and shock

absorber with the coil spring.

Torque: 27 N·m (280 kgf·cm, 20 ft·lbf)


Push the wheel hub down and pull the shock spring assembly out like this. If you removed the caliper, you will have an easier time getting it out.





Make note of how the 3 screws at the top of the shock mount are oriented in relation to the shock.



After compressing the spring with spring compressors, remove the piston rod lock nut.



Remove the shock mount. If it is stuck, use a rubber mallet to gently tap it off.




Remove the shock boot (insulator)



Upon inspection, see mine is coming apart. I used a hot glue gun and electrical tape to repair it.



Remove the spring from the shock.



Here is a comparison of the old and new shocks.



Comparison of old and new springs.




REASSEMBLY

INSTALL SUSPENSION SUPPORT AND COIL SPRING

(a) Install the lower insulator to the shock absorber.

(b) Install the spring bumper subassembly to the suspension

support.

(c) Using spring compressor, compress the coil spring.

(d) Install the coil spring to the shock absorber.

HINT:

Fit the lower end of the coil spring into the recess of the spring

seat of the shock absorber.

(e) Install the suspension support to the rod and temporarily

tighten a new nut.

(f) Rotate the suspension support so that the rod and 1 of the

bolts on suspension support are aligned with the lower

bracket.

(g) Remove the spring compressor

HINT:

Recheck the direction of the suspension

support.






Here is the new shock-spring assembly installed by just reversing the instructions above.


AFTER



BEFORE


Remember to torque all nuts and bolts to the specifications mentioned.



That's it. Good luck.


TOTAL TIME: 4 Hours 

1 hour preparation, 1 hour per wheel, 1 hour cleanup/double checking work.


8-22-2007


Here's how the car sits after the front and rear suspension work.










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