1991 244 Build Thread by Smokeyfan1000

11 minute(s) of a 720 minute read

OK here is what I found out today

The *lower steering shaft U Joint* is for sure NLA* No Longer Available/Obsolete/Discontinued So looks like I may be using my existing lower U Joint, if I cannot find a better used one in JY or in FS section here on TB.

However, I was told that the *upper* steering shaft U joint *is still available* although it may get backordered and was a "Special Order" according to my Receipt. The threaded bolt & nut were still available,for the upper U joint, as was the shear bolt with pin for the upper steering shaft U Joint.

I figured I'd better buy the upper U Joint *before* it becomes NLA too. So......I ordered the upper u joint and it's hardware today.

Sit down before continuing reading the rest.....It was $165.01 for the upper u joint, and the hardware/ bolts/pin were $10.31 altogether.

Well after finding out those prices, I figured I'd bet the whole damn farm and bought 4 more each of the 2 different banjo bolt copper washers that seal the P/S lines to P/S rack. You know...before they go NLA too.

And while I was there, I saw a neat Volvo Key Ring with the Fob made as a SS whistle for $6.95. So now I have 2 new Volvo Key Rings. And the 240 Group A Red Anodized Key Ring Aspirator made and sold here on TB, along with several of kardboard's Turbobrick whatyamacallits ( i forgot the name of it)

Also found out that 240s from 1979 to 1993 use the same lower & upper U joints on the steering shaft according to Volvo parts dept.

FWIW....If any of you want a new OEM Volvo Upper Steering Shaft U Joint, before it too goes NLA..... now is the time to order one from Volvo or wherever...better get while the gettin's good.......(it's 9/24/2012 when I posted this for future reference when it goes NLA)

NOW..................

Of course while inspecting/staring at the old lower u joint, trying to figure a way to rebuild it if I could find a proper sized universal joint for the two aluminum halves of it....................... my CVOCD suddenly kicked in. "Surprised" ??

I thought since I may have to make do with the old one a while, I'd spiff up the *lower U joint* by cleaning/scuffing the aluminum parts with some red scotchbrite.

While doing so, I found what I thought was a part number stamped in it. Number stamped in it is: 1359404. The wierd/funny thing is..... the *upper U Joint* part number is 1359403

I just found that hella strange because the *lower U joint* part number is 6819550. Strange coincidence ??

But......... at any rate I do have a clean shiny used lower u joint for my steering shaft now. I'll post pics of the new upper u joint and hardware when they arrive.

Pics of now spiffy used U joint..

Now for some cool Volvo Accessory Pics.

Installed new PBR brake pads in all four calipers today.

The EBC GreenStuff pads worked AOK, and I liked them just fine. FWIW,I try to change pads ,when the pad's thickness reaches a little less than 1/2 of the original thickness.

Volvo says this is best time to change them, and it helps caliper's piston and seals last longer due to the fact they tend to cock in the bore more when extended close to max specs.

Also it makes sure I don't arrive at the dreaded "metal to metal club" unexpectedly. Don't ya hate when that happens?

9-27-2012

Today I removed the rear collision braces, and the corresponding caliper attachments from the rear calipers.

You know......the large triangular shaped steel braces that are held on with 2 gas tank bolts per side and two subframe bolts per side. This to allow much easier access when driving the brake pad retaining pins into the rear ATE calipers, to allow 16 or 17 x 7" rims/tires at a later date, and also drop a few pounds of weight

For some reason Photobucket site is not accessible, so cannot post pics yets.

I bought some more undercoating today. I already had one can of Rustoleum Undercoating, and bought 2 more cans of Permatex Undercoating at O'Reilly's.

I then masked off the rear muffler and tailpipe, front muffler (using as resonator),the rear IPD Sport springs, the adj IPD upper torque rods,and IPD adj. panhard rod and Billy HDs along with the complete rear calipers/rotors assemblies, and some more of the exhaust pipe.

I undercoated/touched up where the braces used to bolt on, by the 4 bolts each side, resprayed the wheel wells, the edges of the subframe chassis "rails", the outside edge & tops of the braced LTAs & the sides, along with the rear edge & bottom of the gas tank to help blend it all in & freshen it up.

I'm letting the undercoating harden/cure until tomorrow. I'll then remove all the masking paper & remove any/all overspray with gasoline and/or CRC Brakleen.

My new OEM Volvo brake hardware kit is supposed to arrive tomorrow from Tasca., I'll install those, and touch up the calipers with a modeler's paint brush and post better "finished" pics tomorrow.

FWIW, I weighed the braces, the bolt on bracket that bolts on rear calipers and their bolts on the bathroom scale. *Bathroom Scale* reads 17 lbs of weight.

Of course I don't really know if the BR scales are 100% accurate, and most are not IME. At any rate , car loses close to the weight of a 14" OEM steelie wheel.

Considering I added a number of pounds with the IPD S to S brace,IPD Lower Chassis brace And YoshiFab FW to S braces, adj.IPD Upper Torque rods and IPD adj panhard rod...losing a few pounds should help out a tad, to get the car *closer* back to it's original weight.


FWIW/FYI, between 3M, Rustoleum, and Permatex, the Permatex Undercoating is only @4.50 per can (1/2 the price of the other two which are @ 8 bux a can or more), and it goes further than the more expensive other two brands. And seems to me the Permatex is a bit better undercoating too.

Here's a few pics of the job. Was getting dusk so pics are a little "dark" :

9-28-2012

I received the ScanTech lower steering shaft U Joint today from FCPGroton. Looks to me like it's OK to use. There are slight differences in both of the aluminum parts of the U joints.

Nothing drastic, but one is aluminum half is a tad smaller and not tapered, and has a little less wall thickness around the splined pinch end, compared to the OEM Volvo u joint on same aluminum part. The other aluminum half looks identical as far as I can tell . The ScanTech one isn't staked at the u joints cap holes as much as the OEM Volvo one is.

And the new ScanTech U Joints works smoothly on both axis. Decent price on it too. Not as muchh $ as the Volvo unit by a long shot.

As long as it fits the steering shaft & P/S rack's shaft, and clears everything around ,I think I'll install the Scan Tech part and see how it does. Should last as long as the old OEM one did . And I believe it will last longer than the worn original OEM Volvo u joint I removed, if I re installed it.

Now,.. as soon as the OEM Volvo upper steering shaft u joint I ordered from Volvo comes in, I'll install both new ones with the new/remann Atsco steering rack.

I'll be saving both of the old OEM Volvo U Joints for spares, as they are usable,and I can use them 15+ years from now when both will surely be NLA at that time..

Comparison pics below for other's reference:

9-30-2012

OK, here's the pics with braces and caliper 'ears" removed. New pads on with new brake hardware too.

10-2-2012

Since I'm still waiting on the OEM Volvo upper steering shaft U Joint and hardware to come in...................

I figured I'd "fall back" and do some other work. Decided to remove old currently installed, AISIN Fan Clutch, and compare it to the new AISIN Fan Clutch I bought from FCPG . Both are 'cold" and feel the same "friction" in the hub.

However unsure if that's a good test,(likely isn't) and I want a new Fan Clutch on the car for "safety's sake" and to ensure far further engine longevity anyway.

So, of course ,I bolted on the new AISIN Fan Clutch, and used new nuts I bought from FCPG also.

The new one also helps my CVOCD since it looks all nice and shiny now. LOL.

Pics below: