1991 244 Build Thread by Smokeyfan1000

14 minute(s) of a 720 minute read

Been having a weird instrument Cluster Temp gauge reading high problem. Never into the RED, but still higher than normal none the less. I removed Wahler 82C* t stat and tested it. Not operating properly.

I installed another Wahler 82C* t stat, and seemed to do OK, but did spike once the other day. All cooling system items are new except for viscous fan clutch. Still , a bad/going bad Inst. Clstr Temp Gauge is still a possiblity


But I'm going to 'cover all the bases" to be 100% sure about the cooling system working properly..........

So........I've ordered the new 'stock" fan clutch from FCPG. Going to try it & see if it'll do the job alright. If it doesn't , I'll try a new tropical fan clutch later.

I'd like to keep as much HP/Acceleration qualities as possible, and quietness too. From what I have deciphered, a tropical fan clutch may require more engine power to turn it.(when it's engaged)

If the new "stock" fan clutch cools engine correctly in the temps I see here in NC, I'll be OK.

At least I'll know I have a new viscous fan clutch that *IS OPERATING CORRECTLY* so as to take a "bad fan clutch possiblity" out of the equation in my search for why the temp guage spikes once in a while.

I also plan to try another new T stat,..either a Calorstat brand, or a Vernet brand T stat. I'm thinking maybe the quality of Wahler T stats are not what it used to be?

I have found out over the years, that there is always the possiblity that one can have more than one "bad/failed part" causing one type of "problem". Thus making dianosis of said problem quite difficult. In this case, the "Parts Cannon" may indeed be the way to go....

UPDATE on Power Steering Pump Install

Well this has turned into a nightmare/fiasco........

Cannot find proper puller to remove old pulley from old P/S pump. So to save time , I've ordered a new P/S pump pulley from Dealership.

Man, oh Man, is Volvo proud of their P/S pulley...$89.00 plus sales tax. And with the Remanned P/S pump from A/Z @ $40.00 I am still coming out better than buying complete new P/S assembly from Volvo . ($585.00)

I'm figuring on heating pulley in the oven, and putting remanned P/S pump I purchased in freezer and cool it down a bit & hope the new pulley presses on easily. I'll use wet rags to protect P/S pump shaft's seal

At least I'll have a shiny new pulley on a clean & painted ,remanned/working P/S pump in the end. You know I have CVOCD right? 

I've also ordered a remanned P/S steering rack, as the tie rod seals seem to be leaking on mine. Hoping I can remove the P/S lines from the steering rack without having to remove the A/C compressor.

I am really hoping I don't have to blow the freshly charged & great working A/C I just had done...............we'll see what I come up with in the "Special Tools Dept' on this adventure.................

8-31-2012

I hope to pick up the pulley & steering rack today. When I do I'll post pics of the P/S pump,P/S pulley, P/S steering rack.

In the meantime, I did receive my "stock" Aisin Viscous Clutch Fan and Bosch Fog light lense & reflector assemblies.

I'm believe the new fog lenes will help visiblity as my old ones seem to have a lot of "patina".

Please excuse the les than stellar pic quality. My Kodak died, and now using cell phone camera.

Pics below:

9-1-2012

I went to pick up the new/remanned steering rack from Auto Zone today. After I looked at it, I didn't like the way one of the rubber tie rod boots had been installed, so waiting on another one to arrive tomorrow. Hopefully both of it's tie rod boots will be installed correctly. If so I'll bring it home, and post pics of it here tomorrow.

NOW............................................... ..

I have gotten the new P/S pulley on the P/S Pump's shaft . But not fully seated..............

The old pulley on old pump is a tad further on the shaft than I've thus been able to get the new P/S pulley on new P/S pump's shaft.

The cheapo install kit ( a plain thick flat washer, a 3/8-16 nut with 17MM wrench flats, a low grade bolt in 3/8-16 with a 14mm head...go figure) supplied with the Remanned P/S pump is not up to the job.

The pulley install kit has cheap quality bolt & I wrung the bolt into using the electric impact to press the pulley on with.

I went to Lowes and got a 3/8-16 allen head bolt in grade 8 , but still need to make a suitable press "die". The supplied round washer bent and is sinking into the pulley hub's recess, & causing the supplied press tool to stop pressing the pulley on, before pulley is fully seated on shaft.

The new allen head bolt did well and did not wring into, but the hardened washers still bent into the slight recess in center of pulley's hub. The P/S pulley still lacks about 1/16 of an inch to be fully seated on the P/S Pump shaft, ascompared to the original one..

I will make a extra thick round press "die" that shouldn't bend , in the lathe tomorrow and give it one more go. It'll probably line up with A/C Compressor's pulley well enough as is though. But would prefer perfect alignment if possible.

Pics the newly purchased remanned P/S Pump from A/Z, the new P/S pulley from Volvo and of the pulley install progress thus far below, along with comparitive pic of old pump last.

Remanned P/S Pump......

Shiny OEM Volvo Bling......

New pulley on P/S pump

How much the new pulley lacks being fully seated on shaft.....

Old P/S pump with Pulley for comparison....hella flush isn't it?

Well, the second Power Steering Rack came in today.

The 1st P/S Rack that came in yesterday looked to a "generic fit" and not an original VOLVO Cam Style Steering Rack Housing.

And....One of the 1st P/S Rack's tie rod boot looked to be installed incorrectly too. Tie Rod Boot was pulled up over rack hsg too far. Looked like shoddy workmanship. (I know it's a remanned rack, but that doesn't mean it cannot be done correctly)

The 2nd Power Steering Rack came in this morning & is a remanned OEM Volvo 240 Power Steering Rack Housing.

I spotted the VOLVO cast into the rack's housing. And so far, it looks to be just like the one currently on my 240 too.

After "inspecting it" , I notice the tie rods seem to be a bit siffer in there movement though.

Unsure if just a good snug fit at the swivel, or if something's wrong. Going to see what I can find out/determine on this peculiarity.

Might be they are just snug like that. But the new tie rods I bought from FCP and installed on my old rack during my build, were a bit looser, & an "easier to move" , "freer travel" fit than these are.

Might be nothing to worry about, but want to be sure before doing all this install labor..........

Will update today, probably this afternoon, and let you know my "verdict'.

After taking these pic, I noticed it says TRW in small letters, and underneath that it reads VOLVO. So TRW was the Vendor for Volvo on this rack, whatever year , model Volvo it came off of originally.

Pics coming up..............

OK, for other's reference & my own, this is a :

TRW/VOLVO Power Steering Rack Housing that has been remanned by ATSCO, Remanned in the USA, and sold through Auto Zone as Auto Zone's DURALAST Brand.

Price is $169.99 plus sales tax, and plus a $117.00 Core Charge which is re-imbursed to ya when ya return your old worn out rack to the A/Z Store.

I'll see if it really does "DURALAST" pretty soon..............I'm hoping this turns out to be a decent unit.

I am letting it sit, after rinsing it off carefully with GUNK and waterhose, (to remove P/S Fluid from testing before it left Atsco) to see if any of the outside lines, or seals leak before I install it.

PICS BELOW:



TRW/VOLVO HSG ID......

MAYBE ORIGINAL VOLVO P/N AND/OR TRW P/N ?.......

COMPLETE RACK PICs............

Would prefer to use new ones. Cannot get to banjo bolts very easily.

But a box end wrench will go in there if remove frt IPD Sway bar.

But no way in hell to get a socket on a torque wrench in there once it's installed. At least not without removing A/C Compressor & it's bracket to block

I may fish lines down, while they lines are still attached to the old rack. And then install lines on new rack and then fish the lines through as I install the new rack to the frt crossmember.

I prefer to use new copper seals, &  properly torque the bango nuts to ensure no leaks at a later date.

Dunno for sure yet, will have to wait & see just how I will install lines & rack.

Another small detail that I've been trying to finish.

Remember the brass NPT cap I turned downed the OD. of in my lathe to thread on the NISSENS Radiator'sAuto Trans Line Nipples on the passenger side plastic tank? I bought three, but ruined two in lathe ,leaving only one installed?

I've been looking for suitable replacements AND...I found these at my favorite car hobby store, LOWES, last night.

I'll clamp my grinder lightly in a vise with my cloth buffing pad installed on it, & then thread the brass NPT caps onto a short piece of threaded pipe to hold them , and polish them to a "high luster" on the buffing pad with white Jeweler's Rouge in a day or two.

Ya know I just have to make them meet my CVOCD affliction, & appear as "show quality" !

The caps will keep dirt dobbers, water, dirt/crud out of the oil cooler part of the radiator's plastic side tank. And look good doing it too.

PICS........

WHAT I BOUGHT AT LOWES..........

AND IT'S APPLICATION.........

9-2-2012

Got around to buffing the radiator's auto trans oil cooler nipple's caps today........... Caps look a bit nicer polished, IMO.

I installed them by wrapping an old T shirt around the cap's wrench flats, and use a small 5 inch/150MM Stanley Adjustable Wrench.

I just snugged them good, as there is not any liquid to leak out of these oil line nipples .







On the car/in engine compartment

I am seriously thinking about masking the boots and other specific parts of the steering rack.

And then paint the steering rack Rustoleum Blue, to blend with the painted blue sway bars & other IPD blue suspension parts . I think it'd look much better blue, than black.

What do y'all think?

9-3-2012

See..... I should have replaced P/S rack & P/S Pump when I did the frt suspension. I thought rack would last another year or three. It lasted one year more. Save a dime spend a dollar came back to haunt me didn't it?

BTW,What's so amazing? Doesn't everyone else perform 100% quality workmanship/craftmanship ?

I learned a long time ago.... when it comes to repairing a car........

Leave nothing to chance, do it *like your life depends on it*, and it *DOESN"T COST ANY MORE TO DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME* (usually it's cheaper), and if you don't, you'll be doing it later. But sometimes budget does dictate one has to wait.

And let's not to forget to clean the parts/engine bay so ya don't look like ya fell in a grease bucket when you do normal maintenace. Man I hate to get greasy up to my shoulders just to do a tune up, brake job, or oil change.


It's a "Duralast* A/Z part & the Auto Zone parts guy typed "1991 Volvo P/S rack" into his computer, and ordered it from "main warehouse".

1st one was not a remanned Volvo housing, so got him to order another & one pictured is what I got.

All this took 3 days for two orders. Not bad IMO. Louisiana hit by Hurricane held it up 1 day i was told.