DIY Glovebox & Bentley supplement: 1-page summary of the dozen recommended E39 fluids by bluebee

94 minute read

DIY Glovebox & Bentley supplement: 1-page summary of the dozen recommended E39 fluids 

Compliments of bluebee @ www.bimmerfest.com

6-4-2010

Single page BMW E39 fluid tribal knowledge summary (with a reference thread for each to see if they stand the test of time)
(Print a copy for your glove box or Bentleys):

- Power steering: Dexron III ATF (realistically, Dexron VI ATF because Dexron III certification is no longer available from GM) Bentley page 020-20. [Volume: It has been said to be just under 2 quarts; I used about a quart to flush twice just my power steering reservoir using a turkey baster to remove fluids out the top.] Note: I6=rack and pinion attached to an aluminum subframe, V8=recirculating ball and nut attached to a steel subframe. Replacement Interval: Bentley says it's "permanently filled"; but most of us would suction out and refill the reservoir with about a quart of fluid every few years because it's a hygroscopic fluid and the permanent filter on the bottom of the reservoir doesn't prevent the fluid from becoming dirty. Some even replace the reservoir in order to have a new filter. Most also replace or cut off the tip of the bottom hoses whose clamp often allows leaks.

- Windshield & headlight washer system:  surprisingly, I can't find a specification in the Bentley; it should be in book II section 611, Wipers & Washers; but it's not; the Owners Manual, page 150 (Washer Fluid), it says to use "water" and "screenwash when required" (whatever "screenwash" is). [Volume: 3.7 quarts (0.9 gallons, 3.5 liters) or 6.3 quarts (1.6 gallons, 6.0 liters) with headlamp washer system]. Replacement Interval: When needed.
- Intensive cleaning system: The Owners Manual (page 150, Washer Fluid), says to use "BMW intensive cleaning agent", BMW P/N: 83.12.0.410.745 (500ml bottle). [Volume: 1.1 quarts (1.0 liters)]. Replacement Interval: When needed.

- Brakes (9/1998 and later): "low viscosity" "high performance" DOT 4 (nobody seems to know what "low viscosity" means in practical terms; but the Bentleys clearly specify both "low viscosity DOT 4" on page 340-9 and "high performance DOT4" on page 020-11 and just plain old "DOT 4" on page 020-24). ATE Super Blue DOT 4 or any good DOT 4 brake fluid can be used. [Volume: Most people use about 750 ml or about 3/4 quart to flush the four wheels manually so buy about a liter or quart to power flush your entire brake system.] Replacement Interval: Every two (2) years (Bentley page 020-9) starting from date of manufacture. Best to use the pressure method, e.g., Motive pressure bleeder; but the two-man push-and-open method still works.
- Brakes (up to 8/1998): "high performance" DOT 4 (nobody seems to know what "high performance" means in practical terms; but the Bentleys clearly specify "high performance DOT4" on page 020-11 and just plain old "DOT 4" on page 020-24 and again on page 340-9). Replacement Interval: Every two (2) years (Bentley page 020-9) starting from date of manufacture.
- Hydraulic clutch (manual transmission only): Uses the same reservoir as the brake fluid, Bentley 020-26.

- Engine oil (E39 1999 & later): 15W40 LL-01 mineral oil BMW PN: 07.51.0.017.868 (amazingly, only ONE SAE weight is specified! Don't be confused because Bentleypage 020-11 lists only SAE 15W40 while page 020-9 confusingly lists only 5W30 & 15W40 but the 020-11 appears to be the specific listing). [Volume: I6=6.9 quarts, V8=7.9 quarts]. Replacement Interval: The instrument cluster Service Interval Indicator (SII) will determine when necessary by lighting the yellow light and indicating "OIL SERVICE". Note: Mixing oil types (mineral vs synthetic) is permissible. On average, most seem to change oil & filter roughly thrice a year at about 4,500 miles. Best to use either the oil-pan gravity-drain method or the MityVac vacuum-extraction method (don't use the Motive vacuum extractor). Most replace the oil filter on every oil change.
- Engine oil (gas, E39 1997 & 1998): Synthetic 5W-30 LL-01 (aka long-life 2001) BMW PN: 07.51.0.017.866 (amazingly, only ONE SAE weight is specified! This is confusing because Bentley page 020-11 lists only SAE 5W30 while page 020-9 confusingly lists only 5W30 & 15W40 but the 020-11 appears to be the specific listing). Replacement Interval: The instrument cluster Service Interval Indicator (SII) will determine when necessary. Note: Mixing oil types (mineral vs synthetic) is permissible. On average, most seem to change oil & filter roughly thrice a year at about 4,500 miles.
- Engine oil (diesel): I can't find anything in the Bentleys; but the euro owners manual lists on page 152 "ACEA: A3/B3 or ACEA: A3/B4" specifications which all long-life-01 oils meet (according to that owners manual). Replacement Interval: The instrument cluster Service Interval Indicator (SII) will determine when necessary.

- Engine coolant/antifreeze: phosphate free (for Europe's high-mineral-content water), amine & nitrite/nitrate free (for USA long-life requirements), & low-silicate or silicate free (for Japan requirements) 50:50 mixture of ethylene glycol & water (the Bentleys say distilled water (Bentley 020-11), aka de-mineralized or de-ionized water, some call it purified water, and the BMW AG TIS 12.11.2007 18:56 specifies water with a pH from 6.5 to 8.0, maximum total hardness of 3.6 mmol Ca++/liter, maximum chloride content 100 mg/liter, and maximum sulphate content 100mg/liter; interestingly the BMW TIS says "potable tap water usually fulfills these requirements". Despite this, most people say never use tap water due to the ion content. BMW lists a score of coolants in their BMW AG TIS 12.11.2007 18:55 which meet the BMW N 600 69.0 standard, some of which are BMW PN:81.22.9.407.454 1.5-liter; BMW PN:88.88.6.900.316 1 gallon; Castrol Anti-Freeze NF; BASF Glysantin Protect Plus G48, & Havoline AFC (BD04). Others recommend Service Pro Universal Formula; Valvoline Zerex G-05, & Prestone Extended Life 5/150. [Total Volume: 1997 I6=10.5 quarts (2.6 gallons), 1997 V8=12.0 quarts (3.0 gallons), 1998-2002 I6=11.1 quarts (2.8 gallons), 1998-2002 V8=12.7 quarts (3.2 gallons), 1997-2002 V8 with latent heater=13.5 quarts (3.4 gallons)].  Prestone says the only reason for phosphate free is the extremely high mineral content of water in Europe - and that in the USA, it's not needed. Replacement Interval: Every three years (Bentley page 020-9) or every four years (aforementioned BMW AG TIS) starting from date of manufacture (except for M-Power vehicles which have 3-year intervals). Note: Mixing BMW-recommended coolant brands is permissible; but mixing types is not permissible unless it's an emergency.

- Air conditioner: Refrigerant 134a (aka R-134a) with poly alkylene glycol oil, sometimes referred to as poly alkaline glycol oil (aka PAG refrigerant oil). Bentley book II, 640-2 & 640-3 & 640-23. The PAG oil is known by other names such as ND8, PAG46, and BMW PN: 82.11.1.468.042 and travels with the refrigerant as a mist. Best to empty and then refill refrigerant by total weight; second best is the evaporator temperature method (i.e., in the shade, ambient temperature less than about 75°F and relative humidity below about 60% - then add R-134a until the evaporator exit air temperature with A/C set on max at 60°F is 4°C/39°F or colder - the best you can do without MoDIS is probably the center-dash vent at something like 10°C/50°F); third best is the pressure method (i.e., add refrigerant until the low-pressure side is 25 psi to 45 psi ... aim for around 32 psi (assuming shade, ambient, & humidity listed prior); worst is by can weight (e.g., adding a 12oz by weight can or a 16oz can by weight but the AC is a critical-charge system that won't tolerate refrigerant quantities much outside + or - .05 kg). [Volume: E39's built up to 12/97 contain 1,225 grams +/- 25 grams (2.70 lbs +/- 0.05 lbs) of R-134a; E39s built after 12/97 contain 750 grams +/- 10 grams (1.65 lb +/- 0.03lb) of R-134a. The amount of PAG oil misted in the system is said to be about 1 ounce by volume.] Replacement Interval: Lifetime charge.

- Manual transmission (yellow sticker): BMW PN: 83.22.9.408.942 or MTF-LT-1 (manual transmission fluid, lifetime, I'm not sure what the "1" means) Bentley page 020-10 & 020-30. [Volume: See chart below.] Replacement Interval: Lifetime oil (Bentley 230-6). A user-recommended fluid is "Royal Purple Synchromax 1512 manual transmission fluid" & Redline MT-90; the user-recommended replacement interval is roughly 5 years or about 60K miles.
- Manual transmission (orange sticker): The Bentleys, on page 200-4, simply say "ATF" (aka ATF-Oil). Nothing more. Note: This orange sticker is not mentioned in the Bentleys page 020-10 & 020-30 but is noted on page 200-4. Replacement Interval: Lifetime oil (Bentley 230-6); but the user-recommended replacement interval is roughly 5 years or about 60K miles.
- Automatic transmission (green sticker): BMW PN: 83.22.0.024.359 or Texaco ETL 8072B or Shell LA2634 (this is extremely confusing, not only because these are cryptic "types" but also because the Bentleys list different fluids and volumes on page 020-10, 240-6, & 240-8). [Volume w/o torque converter/with  torque converter, see chart below]. Replacement Interval: Lifetime oil (Bentley 240-6); but the user-recommended replacement interval for the fluid and filter is roughly 5 years or about 60K miles. Apparently Pentosin is the OEM oil but FEBI also works (ATF Auto Transmission Fluid equivalent to ESSO LT 71141). Note: Mixing ATF types will cause transmissionfailure (Bentley 240-6). My 2002 525i with the ZF 5HP19 (aka A5S 325Z) transmission (6.2 liters/8.9 liters or 6.6 quarts/9.4 quarts) has this green sticker.
- Automatic transmission (black sticker): Dexron III ATF (realistically Dexron VI ATF) BMW PN: 83.22.9.407.807 or Exxon LT-71141 which seems to also be called Esso LT-71141) (all this is extremely confusing, not only because these are cryptic "types", but also because the Bentleys list different fluids on page 020-10 than on page 240-6). [Volume w/o torque converter/with torque converter, see chart below]. Replacement Interval: Lifetime  oil (Bentley 240-6); but the user-recommended replacement interval for the fluid and filter is roughly 5 years or about 60K miles. Note: Mixing ATF types will cause transmission failure (Bentley 240-6). Some users suggest Mobil1 Synthetic ATF.

See this thread for complete details on fluids, torques, volumes, locations, etc and to find which transmission is in your model E39:
Manual transmissions:
BMW 525i 2001-2002 M52TU, M54: Getrag S5D 250G, 1.2 quarts (1.1 liters)
BMW 540i 1997-2002 M62: ZF/Getrag S6S 420G, 2.0 quarts (1.9 liters)
BMW 528i 1997-2002 M52: ZF S5D 320Z, 1.4 quarts (1.3 liters)
BMW 530i 2001-2002 M54: ZF S5D 320Z, 1.4 quarts (1.3 liters)

Automatic transmissions:
GM THM-R1 (A4S 270R), 9.3 quarts/8.2 quarts (8.8 liters/7.8 liters)
BMW 528i to 9/1999 M52: GM THM-R1 (A4S 310R), 9.3 quarts/8.2 quarts (8.8 liters/7.8 liters)
BMW 528i from 9/1999: GM 5L40-E/GM5 (A5S 360R), 9.5 quarts/8.5 quarts (9.0 liters/8.0 liters)
BMW 525i to 3/2001 M54: GM 5L40-E/GM5 (A5S 390R), 9.5 quarts/8.5 quarts (9.0 liters/8.0 liters)
BMW X5 GM 5L40-E/GM5 (A5S 390R), 10.1 quarts/9.1 quarts (9.6 liters/8.6 liters)
BMW 530i to 3/2001 M54: GM 5L40-E/GM5 (A5S 390R), ? quarts/? quarts (? liters/?liters)
ZF 4HP22, 7.9 quarts/3.2 quarts (7.5 liters/3.0 liters)
ZF 4HP24, 8.6 quarts/3.3 quarts (8.1 liters/3.1 liters)
ZF 5HP18 (A5S 310Z), 8.2 quarts/3.4 quarts (7.8 liters/3.2 liters)
BMW 525i from 3/2001 (2.5L M54): ZF 5HP19 (A5S 325Z), 9.4 quarts/6.6 quarts (8.9 liters/6.2 liters)
BMW 530i from 3/2001 (3.0L M54): ZF 5HP19 (A5S 325Z), 9.2 quarts/6.5 quarts (8.7 liters/6.1 liters)
ZF 5HP24 (A5S 440Z) for 4.4 L, 9.5 quarts/5.7 quarts (9.0 liters/5.35 liters)
BMW 540i from 1/1997 M62 TU: ZF 5HP24 (A5S 440Z) for 4.6 L, 10.5 quarts/5.7 quarts (9.9 liters/5.35 liters)
BMW 540i to 1/1997 M62: ZF 5HP30 (A5S 560Z) 13.8 quarts/5.8 quarts (13.1 liters/5.5 liters)

- Differential (conventional, i.e., non-limited-slip E39s): The Bentleys specify "BMW SAF-XO synthetic final drive gear oil" which doesn't exist (it's Castrol). The Bentleys don't specify the weight (it's SAE 75W-90); and the Bentleys don't specify the quality (it's API GL-5 hypoid gear oil). Given that, suitable replacements are Amsoil Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF) API 75W90,Mobil1, Royal Purple Max-Gear, & Redline SAE 75W90 API GL-5 synthetic gear oils. Unfortunately, there's no way to tell which of the three (3) different differentials you have w/o looking at the numbers molded into the metal. Bentley page 020-11 & 020-26 & 331-6. [Volume: Type G=1.7 quarts, Type 188 Compact=1.1 quarts, Type 220/215 Compact=1.5 quarts.] Replacement Interval: Lifetime fluid (but most recommend replacing differential fluid at the same time you replace transmission fluid, which is about 5 years or roughly 60K miles).
- Differential (limited-slip E39s, such as the M5): BMW SAF-XJ API GL-5 SAE 75W-140 synthetic hypoid final-drive gear oil (aka Castrol SAF-XJ). This requirement is not listed in the Bentley manual; it is gleaned from the Castrol literature and from what is stated about the M5 in this thread below (please correct if necessary). Replacement Interval: Lifetime fluid (but most recommend replacing differential fluid at the same time you replace transmission fluid, which is about 5 years or roughly 60K miles).

- Battery: A charged battery is 33.5% (volume/volume%) sulfuric acid (4.2 Molar H₂SO_4, ) & distilled water (Bentley 020-23) with positive plates containing lead dioxide(PbO₂) and negative plates of lead (Pb), both mixed with calcium (Ca) to minimize gassing (i.e., loss of water) and other elements (such as tin, antimony, & selenium to harden the plates and simplify manufacturing) in a polypropylene case. In the discharged state, both plates turn to lead sulfate (PbSO₄) as the electrolyte loses its dissolved sulfuric acid and becomes primarily water (which can freeze in cold temperatures and the lead sulfate may form insoluble crystals which, over time, reduce the capacity of the battery if it is not recharged immediately after discharge).  [Total Volume: unknown but users have reported adding about 20 ml per cell after two years of use]. Replacement Interval: Lifetime fluid (top off only if needed, after removing steel strap, two stickers and then unscrewing the six cell caps, and filling to the fill line which is 1/4 inch or 5mm above the top of the plates at the very bottom of the internal black plastic depth indicator). The OEM battery has built-in hydrometer where green indicates a charged battery and black indicates a discharged battery, and yellow indicates a defective battery. Better to test at 27°C/80°F by loading battery with 15 amperes for 1 minute (or just turn headlights on w/o engine running) and then perform a 1.265 specific-gravity hydrometer test of each of the six cells (add or subtract 0.004 to the hydrometer reading for every 10°F/6°C above or below 27°C/80°F respectively); and a 12.6 volt open-circuit voltage test across the battery terminals (Bentley 121-5, 121-6). OEM specs are BMW 61.21.8.381.762, USA 729905-10, EN 12V 90Ah 720A, SAE 160 RC 720 CCA. Aftermarket batteries are Duralast 49-DL, Duralast 94-R, NAPA #7549, Deka 649MF, Interstate MTP-93; must have side vent and a stamped date code within the last couple of months.

- Engine fuel (gas): The sticker on the inside of the fuel filler specifies the octane rating to use; most E39s in the USA specify unleaded 91 AKI (the AKI is the average of the RON & the MON). Lower octane ratings can be used as the two piezoelectric knock sensors will retard timing if they sense detonation vibrations which may adversely affect performance but which won't damage the car under normal circumstances. [Volume: 70 liters (18.5 gallons) with a reserve capacity of 8 liters (2 gallons) in the 525i & 530i and a reserve of 10 liters (2.5 gallons) for the 540i]. We're not sure the algorithm for the small round yellow fuel-warning light, but most people say it goes on approximately at 40 miles remaining fuel; chime sounds at approximately half that (need more data). Replacement Interval: Monthly, as fuel reputedly goes "stale" after 30 days; also it's reputed you should fill by the 1/4 to 1/8 mark in order to better cool the fuel pump. Fuel can't be siphoned out due to siphon restrictions 4 inches in but can be bled using other methods.
- Engine fuel (diesel): On page 23 of the Owners Manual, it lists "Diesel oil DIN EN 590", whatever that is. It specifically says not to use rapeseed oil methyl ester (aka RME), or bio diesel oil. Replacement Interval: As needed. ???

- Tire pressure & mixture: Standard air (i.e., 78% nitrogen, 21% oxygen) or 95% to 98% nitrogen (it's not pure nitrogen because they generate the nitrogen from air instead of using pure liquid nitrogen bottles). [Volume: About 10 to 18 liters at 30psi at 25°C, mass is about 26 grams of air].Pressure is more important than volume. The stated reason for the higher rear inflation is to handle weight transfer upon acceleration but nobody is really sure. You want to stay within 3% (+/-) between the axles as greater differences can create problems with ABS & the car's traction control systems. Some say you also need to take into account the load rating if you deviate from the standard 94 load range for the OEM E39. If you buy  tires rated, say, 97, they say you need to adjust the pressure down or the  tires will be overinflated. There are many reputed reasons for nitrogen over air, the main one being tires lose air at about 2.7 pounds of pressure per month while nitrogen-inflated  tires lose it at only 0.7 pounds per month.

Here is a general BMW E39 inflation table from QSilver.
18" - 38/41 front/rear (up to 4 passengers) (this is the only one that is different)
18" - 41/48 front/rear (5 passengers)
16"/17" - 35/39 front/rear (up to 4 passengers)
16"/17" - 41/48 front/rear (5 passengers)
16"/17" - 30/35 front/rear (up to 4 passengers) snow tires & Q/T/H speed rated tires
16"/17" - 36/44 front/rear (5 passengers) snow  tires & Q/T/H speed rated  tires

6-5-2010

Thanks. I corrected the statement on the fuel in the first post.

As you intimated, AKI is the anti-knock index (sometimes called the PON, pump octane number). The research octane number (RON) and motor octane number (MON) are averaged to get the AKI in the USA.

6-6-2010

That PDF was very informative. It explained a lot. But, as always, it still leaves open questions (mostly what's not said, or what conflicts with what we already know).

Based on the PDF, Castrol SAF-XO is a
- synthetic, multigrade, rear-axle lubrication fluid
- for conventional (non-limited-slip) hypoid-gear differentials
- available in SAE 75W-90, 80W-90 or 90 weights
- and which meets API GL-5 hypoid-gear oil requirements

My questions about BMW E39 differential oils are:
Q: Do the SAF-XO letters actually indicate something useful?
Q: Is Castrol the only manufacturer of "SAF-XO"?
Q: Notice the three weights (SAE 75W-90 or 80W-90 or 90) yet the Bentley doesn't say which weight to use!
Q: Does BMW really recommend replacement every 2 years? (Bentley page 020-26 says it's a life-time oil; Castrol says replace it every 2 years)
Q: Can we simply replace this with any good API GL-5 SAE 75W-90 synthetic hypoid gear oil?
Q: If most E39s have conventional (i.e., non-limited-slip differentials), yet if the M5 has a limited-slip axle, why doesn't the E39 Bentley mention a different oil for the M5 (SAF-XJ vs SAF-XO)?

Note: I opened a separate thread to get to the bottom of the differential hypoid gear oil to use in our E39s.

6-12-2010

I've opened a thread or re-used a thread for each of the fluids in the list of a dozen or so for the E39.

This way, I can collect the combined tribal knowledge into the first post, which I've been updating almost daily (and will continue to do so, with your input, until the post closes itself to edits).

Tribal knowledge threads used to improve this data are:
- Power steering:
- Windshield & headlight washer system: 
- Intensive cleaning system:
- Brakes:
- Engine oil:
- Engine coolant/antifreeze:
- Air conditioner:
- Transmission:
- Differential: 
- Battery:
- Engine fuel: 
- Tire pressure & mixture:

bmw_maintenance_schedule_old_style.pdf

6-21-2010

These charts from this thread are invaluable!

9-2-2010

Here's an update, based on this information from cn90's DIY:

The update is in red below (for comments so that we have a good list):

- Manual transmission (yellow sticker): BMW PN: 83.22.9.408.942 or MTF-LT-1 (manual transmission fluid, lifetime, I'm not sure what the "1" means) Bentley page 020-10 & 020-30. [Volume: See chart below.] Replacement Interval: Lifetime oil (Bentley 230-6). A user-recommended fluid is "Royal Purple Synchromax 1512 manual transmission fluid" & Redline MT-90; also recommended is Redline D4 ATF or Redline MTL or Mobil1 Synthetic; the user-recommended replacement interval is roughly 5 years or about 60K miles.

12-13-2010

In this thread, 540i M-sport helped us improve the coolant fluid summary in this update thread as the following (please correct any errors!):

- Engine coolant: phosphate free (for Europe's high-mineral-content water), amine & nitrite/nitrate free (for USA long-life requirements), & low-silicate or silicate free (for Japan requirements) 50:50 mixture of ethylene glycol & water (the Bentleys say distilled water (Bentley 020-11), aka de-mineralized or de-ionized water, some call it purified water, and the BMW AG TIS 12.11.2007 18:56 specifies water with a pH from 6.5 to 8.0, maximum total hardness of 3.6 mmol Ca++/liter, maximum chloride content 100 mg/liter, and maximum sulphate content 100mg/liter; interestingly the BMW TIS says "potable tap water usually fulfills these requirements". Despite this, most Bimmerfest posters say never use tap water due to the ion content. BMW lists a score of coolants in their BMW AG TIS 12.11.2007 18:55 which meet the BMW N 600 69.0 standard, some of which are BMW PN:81.22.9.407.454 1.5-liter; BMW PN:88.88.6.900.316 1 gallon; Castrol Anti-Freeze NF; BASF Glysantin Protect Plus G48, & Havoline AFC (BD04); but most of which are not easily found in the USA. Many Bimmerfesters recommend BMW coolant; however other Bimmerfesters recommend Prestone Extended Life 5/150, Valvoline Zerex G-05, and Service Pro Universal Formula. [Total Volume: 1997 I6=10.5 quarts (2.6 gallons), 1997 V8=12.0 quarts (3.0 gallons), 1998-2002 I6=11.1 quarts (2.8 gallons), 1998-2002 V8=12.7 quarts (3.2 gallons), 1997-2002 V8 with latent heater=13.5 quarts (3.4 gallons)].  Prestone says the only reason for phosphate free is the extremely high mineral content of water in Europe - and that in the USA, it's not needed. Replacement Interval: Every three years (Bentley page 020-9) or every four years (aforementioned BMW AG TIS) starting from date of manufacture (except for M-Power vehicles which have 3-year intervals). Note: Mixing BMW-recommended coolant brands is permissible; but mixing types is not permissible unless it's an emergency.

BTW, here's an interesting excerpt from this web page:
Prior to the advent of BMW Free Scheduled Maintenance, approximate BMW maintenance recommendations were: automatic transmission fluid (ATF) and filter changes every 15,000 miles, manual gearbox and differential oil changes every 30,000 miles, annual brake fluid changes, and coolant changes every two years. Spark plugs, air filter, and fuel filters were typically replaced every 30,000 miles on most BMWs (this is a tune-up) except M cars up to 1995, which got new spark plugs and a valve adjustment every 15,000. Later advances in computer engine management and spark plug technology legitimately allow 60,000-mile  spark plug life if not more.
...
But once BMW began paying for scheduled maintenance, lo and behold the "schedule" was revised. Now the cars hardly need any  maintenance at all. The 1,200-mile break-in service was done away with except for M cars. Engine oil suddenly lasts 15,000 miles (dealers are supposed to use BMW synthetic oil). Manual gearbox and differential oil? No worries there – now BMW says they NEVER need to be changed; it's "lifetime fill." Brake fluid and coolant service intervals were doubled with no change in the original BMW brake fluid and anti-freeze dealers are supposed to use.
...
I recommend changing engine coolant at two-year intervals, using only factory BMW anti-freeze mixed 50-50 with distilled water (reason – BMW anti-freeze is phosphate free, phosphates cause aluminum oxidation, which blocks cylinder head coolant passages and causes head gasket failure, others may claim to be "aluminum safe" or "phosphate free" – make your choice, but I've used BMW anti-freeze exclusively in many cars and have never had an aluminum oxidation or head gasket problem). The factory coolant change interval used to be every two years. It is now every four years.

12-27-2010

Based on bmw_n00b13's clarification of "low viscosity" brake fluid in this thread, I just now modified the original recommendations for brake fluid in post #1 with those below.

PLEASE CORRECT AS NEEDED SO THIS CAN BE REFERRED TO OTHERS!
(I can't always be right! )

- Brakes (9/1998 and later): "low viscosity" "high performance" DOT 4 (while the Bentleys clearly specify both "low viscosity DOT 4" on page 340-9 and "high performance DOT4" on page 020-11 and just plain old "DOT 4" on page 020-24, some recommend DOT4 ISO6 (aka Class 6, ISO 4925) low viscosity brake fluid over just regular DOT4, especially in colder climes). While the Bentleys do not specify what viscosity they consider to be "low"). Further inspection reveals a viscosity of 700mm^2at -104°F can be considered "low viscosity". However any good DOT 4 brake fluid can be used; but most recommend ATE Super Blue DOT 4 or "Original ATE SL.6" brake fluid. Many recommend alternating amber and blue colors to ascertain when the flush is complete. [Volume: Most people use about 750 ml or about 3/4 quart to flush the four wheels manually and slightly more than a liter to pressure bleed, depending on technique; so buy at least a liter (or quart) to power flush your entire brake system.] Replacement Interval: Every two (2) years (Bentley page 020-9) starting from date of manufacture. Best to use the pressure method, e.g., Motive pressure bleeder; but the two-man push-and-open method still works.
- Brakes (up to 8/1998): "high performance" DOT 4 (nobody seems to know what "high performance" means in practical terms; but the Bentleys clearly specify "high performance DOT4" on page 020-11 and just plain old "DOT 4" on page 020-24 and again on page 340-9). Replacement Interval: Every two (2) years (Bentley page 020-9) starting from date of manufacture.
- Hydraulic clutch (manual transmission only): Uses the same fluid & reservoir as the brake fluid, Bentley 020-26.

1-6-2011

Weirdly, the power steering reservoir cap fill marks are not shown in the owners manual (according to this thread) ... so here is the missing explanation.

Here is the description:

1. "The fluid level should be in between the marks on the dipstick"
2. "On a stationary engine top up the fluid reservoir to the MAX mark on dipstick"

To replace:

- Turkey baster (or syringe) to suck PS fluid out in a container.

- Do this until it the reservoir is dry and you can see the white at the bottom

- Fill with your favorite PS fluid (Dexron-III - but realistically, Dexron VI since III is no longer certified by GM)

- Start engine, turn the steering all the way R and L a few times to expel any air.

- Shut the engine.

- Repeat this cycles a few times so most of the fluid is fresh.

The Complex way is via the steering rack line disconnect but that is more labor, so keep it simple as above. 

See also the VERY best of E39 Links:

- Did I use the wrong PSF (Dexron II not Dexron III)???

- BMW E36/E46 Power Steering Fluid Flush DIY

1-23-2011

Regarding just motor oils, I came to this thread just now as I researched an answer posted here:
- Oil change around Manhasset NY?

To cross reference, there are apparently four somewhat overlapping oil dogma "religious camps" here when it comes to the selection of E39 motor oil:
- What oil should I use in my BMW E39?

There is a specific discussion of the religious dogmas in this thread:
- The three "oil" camps (no, this is not another "what oil should I use" thread)

What oil you decide to use will largely depend on what religious dogma you personally subscribe to. You will find all four camps here on Bimmerfest and elsewhere.

1. Use only what BMW recommends
2. Use what BMW intended (i.e., learn their rationale & select accordingly)
3. Use what everyone else uses in all the other cars on earth
4. Undecided

If you are the first type (Keep-it-simple-BMW) - the list of BMW-approved oils is here:
- BMW listing of approved synthetic oils available in the USA (pdf)
- BMW description and list of approved synthetic oils (html)
- What oil meets BMW Specs? 
- Discussion of BMW-approved motor oils (aioros)

If you're in the second type (use what BMW specified, not what they list), then you'll want to choose your own oil based on the information below in addition to the information in the BMW-approved lists in the first dogma:
- Rationale behind BMW E39 motor oil SAE viscosity recommendations
- Rationale for the viscosity decision at 40C
- More Than You Ever Wanted to Know About Motor Oil, by Ed Hackett
- Motor Oil Articles, by Dr. Ali E. Haas
- What is the difference between dino oil & synthetic oil
- Bob is the oil guy, Motor oil 101
- Understanding SAE viscosity ratings (pdf)

And, if you were the third (KISS) type - almost any synthetic oil would work just fine (as would dino juice changed twice as often):
- How to logically choose the right motor oil for your E39

If you're in the fourth (undecided) camp, then you really need to state what camp you prefer to be in as that is the set of recommendations you'll most likely be most comfortable with.

These camps overlap, but all the discussion you see here is generally in the areas that DON'T OVERLAP!

Speaking of changing the motor oil, we all agree the maintenance schedule is even more important than the oil decision:
- Old school maintenance schedule for BMW E39

Here is a summary from the BMW fluid glovebox printout:
- Engine oil (E39 1999 & later): 15W40 LL-01 mineral oil BMW PN: 07.51.0.017.868 (amazingly, only ONE SAE weight is specified! Don't be confused because Bentleypage 020-11 lists only SAE 15W40 while page 020-9 confusingly lists only 5W30 & 15W40 but the 020-11 appears to be the specific listing). [Volume: I6=6.9 quarts, V8=7.9 quarts]. Replacement Interval: The instrument cluster Service Interval Indicator (SII) will determine when necessary by lighting the yellow light and indicating "OIL SERVICE". Note: Mixing oil types (mineral vs synthetic) is permissible. On average, most seem to change oil & filter roughly thrice a year at about 4,500 miles. Best to use either the oil-pan gravity-drain method or the MityVac vacuum-extraction method (don't use the Motive vacuum extractor). Most replace the oil filter on every oil change.
- Engine oil (gas, E39 1997 & 1998): Synthetic 5W-30 LL-01 (aka long-life 2001) BMW PN: 07.51.0.017.866 (amazingly, only ONE SAE weight is specified! This is confusing because Bentley page 020-11 lists only SAE 5W30 while page 020-9 confusingly lists only 5W30 & 15W40 but the 020-11 appears to be the specific listing). Replacement Interval: The instrument cluster Service Interval Indicator (SII) will determine when necessary. Note: Mixing oil types (mineral vs synthetic) is permissible. On average, most seem to change oil & filter roughly thrice a year at about 4,500 miles.
- Engine oil (diesel): I can't find anything in the Bentleys; but the euro owners manual lists on page 152 "ACEA: A3/B3 or ACEA: A3/B4" specifications which all long-life-01 oils meet (according to that owners manual). Replacement Interval: The instrument cluster Service Interval Indicator (SII) will determine when necessary.

1-26-2011

It's time for an update to put all the knowledge in this thread into one post:
- Old school maintenance schedule for BMW E39

Here is a summary from the BMW fluid glovebox printout:
- Brakes (9/1998 and later): "low viscosity" "high performance" DOT 4 (the Bentleys confusingly specify both "low viscosity DOT 4" on page 340-9 and "high performance DOT4" on page 020-11 and just plain old "DOT 4" on page 020-24, while never explaining what "low viscosity" or "high performance" indicates). Some recommend DOT4 ISO6 (aka Class 6, ISO 4925) low-viscosity brake fluid over just regular DOT4, especially in colder climes). While the Bentleys do not specify what viscosity they consider to be "low", further inspection reveals the "BMW QV 34 001" specification seems to support a maximum viscosity @-40°C of 700 mm²/s and a minimum viscosity @100°C of 1.5 mm²/s (both per ISO 3104); most of us agree these specifications can be considered "low viscosity". However many say any DOT 4 brake fluid can be used; and most recommend ATE Super Blue DOT 4 (which does not meet this viscosity specification) or "Original ATE SL.6" brake fluid (which does). Many recommend alternating amber and blue colors to ascertain when the flush is complete; although be advised that the DOT4 specification requires a "clear" fluid, sans die. [Volume: Most people use about 750 ml or about 3/4 quart to flush the four wheels manually and slightly more than a liter to pressure bleed, depending on technique; so buy at least a liter (or quart) to power flush your entire brake system.] Replacement Interval: Every two (2) years (Bentley page 020-9) starting from date of manufacture. Best to use the pressure method, e.g., Motive pressure bleeder; but the two-man push-and-open method still works.
- Brakes (up to 8/1998): "high performance" DOT 4 (nobody seems to know what "high performance" means in practical terms; but the Bentleys clearly specify "high performance DOT4" on page 020-11 and just plain old "DOT 4" on page 020-24 and again on page 340-9). Replacement Interval: Every two (2) years (Bentley page 020-9) starting from date of manufacture.
- Hydraulic clutch (manual transmission only): Uses the same fluid & reservoir as the brake fluid, Bentley 020-26.

- Engine coolant: phosphate free (for Europe's high-mineral-content water), amine & nitrite/nitrate free (for USA long-life requirements), & low-silicate or silicate free (for Japan requirements) 50:50 mixture of ethylene glycol & water (the Bentleys say distilled water (Bentley 020-11), aka de-mineralized or de-ionized water, some call it purified water, and the BMW AG TIS 12.11.2007 18:56 specifies water with a pH from 6.5 to 8.0, maximum total hardness of 3.6 mmol Ca++/liter, maximum chloride content 100 mg/liter, and maximum sulphate content 100mg/liter; interestingly the BMW TIS says "potable tap water usually fulfills these requirements". Despite this, most Bimmerfest posters say never use tap water due to the ion content. BMW lists a score of coolants in their BMW AG TIS 12.11.2007 18:55 which meet the BMW N 600 69.0 standard, some of which are BMW PN:81.22.9.407.454 1.5-liter; BMW PN:88.88.6.900.316 1 gallon; Castrol Anti-Freeze NF; BASF Glysantin Protect Plus G48, & Havoline AFC (BD04); but most of which are not easily found in the USA. Many Bimmerfesters recommend BMW  coolant; however other Bimmerfesters recommend Prestone Extended Life 5/150, Valvoline Zerex G-05, and Service Pro Universal Formula. [Total Volume: 1997 I6=10.5 quarts (2.6 gallons), 1997 V8=12.0 quarts (3.0 gallons), 1998-2002 I6=11.1 quarts (2.8 gallons), 1998-2002 V8=12.7 quarts (3.2 gallons), 1997-2002 V8 with latent heater=13.5 quarts (3.4 gallons)].  Prestone says the only reason for phosphate free is the extremely high mineral content of water in Europe - and that in the USA, it's not needed. Replacement Interval: Every three years (Bentley page 020-9) or every four years (aforementioned BMW AG TIS) starting from date of manufacture (except for M-Power vehicles which have 3-year intervals). Note: Mixing BMW-recommended coolant brands is permissible; but mixing types is not permissible unless it's an emergency.

Note: just as with oil, there are three schools of thought for the selection of coolants (see discussion here).

- Manual transmission (yellow sticker): BMW PN: 83.22.9.408.942 or MTF-LT-1 (manual transmission fluid, lifetime, I'm not sure what the "1" means) Bentley page 020-10 & 020-30. [Volume: See chart below.] Replacement Interval: Lifetime oil (Bentley 230-6). A user-recommended fluid is "Royal Purple Synchromax 1512 manual transmission fluid" & Redline MT-90; also recommended is Redline D4 ATF or Redline MTL or Mobil1 Synthetic; the user-recommended replacement interval is roughly 5 years or about 60K miles.
- Manual transmission (orange sticker): The Bentleys, on page 200-4, simply say "ATF" (aka ATF-Oil). Nothing more. Note: This orange sticker is not mentioned in the Bentleys page 020-10 & 020-30 but is noted on page 200-4. Replacement Interval: Lifetime oil (Bentley 230-6); but the user-recommended replacement interval is roughly 5 years or about 60K miles.
- Automatic transmission (green sticker): BMW PN: 83.22.0.024.359 or Texaco ETL 8072B or Shell LA2634 (this is extremely confusing, not only because these are cryptic "types" but also because the Bentleys list different fluids and volumes on page 020-10, 240-6, & 240-8). [Volume w/o torque converter/with  torque converter, see chart below]. Replacement Interval: Lifetime oil (Bentley 240-6); but the user-recommended replacement interval for the fluid and filter is roughly 5 years or about 60K miles. Apparently Pentosin is the OEM oil but FEBI also works (ATF Auto Transmission Fluid equivalent to ESSO LT 71141). Note: Mixing ATF types will cause transmissionfailure (Bentley 240-6). My 2002 525i with the ZF 5HP19 (aka A5S 325Z) transmission (6.2 liters/8.9 liters or 6.6 quarts/9.4 quarts) has this green sticker.
- Automatic transmission (black sticker): Dexron III ATF (realistically Dexron VI ATF) BMW PN: 83.22.9.407.807 or Exxon LT-71141 which seems to also be called Esso LT-71141) (all this is extremely confusing, not only because these are cryptic "types", but also because the Bentleys list different fluids on page 020-10 than on page 240-6). [Volume w/o torque converter/with torque converter, see chart below]. Replacement Interval: Lifetime oil (Bentley 240-6); but the user-recommended replacement interval for the fluid and filter is roughly 5 years or about 60K miles. Note: Mixing ATF types will cause transmission failure (Bentley 240-6). Some users suggest Mobil1 Synthetic ATF.

See this thread for complete details on fluids, torques, volumes, locations, etc and to find which transmission is in your model E39:

- Power steering: Dexron III ATF (realistically, Dexron VI ATF because Dexron III certification is no longer available from GM) Bentley page 020-20. [Volume: It has been said to be just under 2 quarts; I used about a quart to flush twice just my power steering reservoir using a turkey baster to remove fluids out the top.] Note: I6=rack and pinion attached to an aluminum subframe, V8=recirculating ball and nut attached to a steel subframe. Replacement Interval: Bentley says it's "permanently filled"; but most of us would suction out and refill the reservoir with about a quart of fluid every few years because it's a hygroscopic fluid and the permanent filter on the bottom of the reservoir doesn't prevent the fluid from becoming dirty. Some even replace the reservoir in order to have a new filter. Most also replace or cut off the tip of the bottom hoses whose clamp often allows leaks.

- Windshield & headlight washer system:  surprisingly, I can't find a specification in the Bentley; it should be in book II section 611, Wipers & Washers; but it's not; the Owners Manual, page 150 (Washer Fluid), it says to use "water" and "screenwash when required" (whatever "screenwash" is). [Volume: 3.7 quarts (0.9 gallons, 3.5 liters) or 6.3 quarts (1.6 gallons, 6.0 liters) with headlamp washer system]. Replacement Interval: When needed.
- Intensive cleaning system: The Owners Manual (page 150, Washer Fluid), says to use "BMW intensive cleaning agent", BMW P/N: 83.12.0.410.745 (500ml bottle). [Volume: 1.1 quarts (1.0 liters)]. Replacement Interval: When needed.

- Engine oil (E39 1999 & later): 15W40 LL-01 mineral oil BMW PN: 07.51.0.017.868 (amazingly, only one SAE weight is specified! Don't be confused because Bentleypage 020-11 lists only SAE 15W40 while page 020-9 confusingly lists only SAE 5W30 & SAE 15W40 but page 020-11 appears to be the specific listing to follow). Various dogmatic camps differ on 'opinions' (1) but there is only one BMW-approved list (1). [Volume: I6=6.9 quarts, V8=7.9 quarts]. Replacement Interval: The instrument clusterService Interval Indicator (SII) will determine when necessary by lighting the yellow light and indicating "OIL SERVICE". On average, most seem to change oil & filter (Mann, Hengst, or Mahle only!) & 36mm 6-point socket oil-filter cap o-ring (91x4mm) & copper crush washer roughly thrice a year at about 4,500 miles; most replace the smaller lower oil-filter-post o-rings every five years or so (7x2.5mm). Keep a spare 17 mm drain bolt handy on the I6 as it's hollow and can break from over tightening (M12x1.5x18mm). Torque filter cap to 18 ft-lb, drain bolt to 21 ft-lb. Note: Mixing oil types (mineral vs synthetic) is permissible; but bear in mind "synthetic" is an advertising term and quite a few oils labeled as such are not PAOs or diesters (1). Best to use either the oil-pan gravity-drain method or the MityVac vacuum-extraction method (don't use the Motive vacuum extractor). Most replace the oil filter & oil-filter-cap o-ring on every oil change and the lower small o-rings on every other change. Keep a spare oil drain plug handy, especially in the I6 as the bolt is hollow and prone to breaking when over torqued.
- Engine oil (gas, E39 1997 & 1998): Synthetic 5W-30 LL-01 (aka long-life 2001) BMW PN: 07.51.0.017.866 (amazingly, only one SAE weight is specified! This is confusing because  Bentley page 020-11 lists only SAE 5W30 while page 020-9 confusingly lists only SAE 5W30 & SAE 15W40 but the 020-11 appears to be the specific listing). Replacement Interval: The instrument cluster Service Interval Indicator (SII) will determine when necessary. Note: Mixing oil types (mineral vs synthetic) is permissible. On average, most seem to change oil & filter roughly thrice a year at about 4,500 miles.
- Engine oil (diesel): I can't find anything in the Bentleys; but the euro owners manual lists on page 152 "ACEA: A3/B3 or ACEA: A3/B4" specifications which all long-life-01 oils meet (according to that owners manual). Most people here say to use LL-04 approved oils (1). Replacement Interval: The instrument cluster Service Interval Indicator (SII) will determine when necessary.

- Air conditioner: Refrigerant 134a (aka R-134a) with poly alkylene glycol oil, sometimes referred to as poly alkaline glycol oil (aka PAG refrigerant  oil).  Bentley book II, 640-2 & 640-3 & 640-23. The PAG oil is known by other names such as ND8, PAG46, and BMW PN: 82.11.1.468.042 and travels with the refrigerant as a mist. Best to empty and then refill refrigerant by total weight; second best is the evaporator temperature method (i.e., in the shade, ambient temperature less than about 75°F and relative humidity below about 60% - then add R-134a until the evaporator exit air temperature with A/C set on max at 60°F is 4°C/39°F or colder - the best you can do without MoDIS is probably the center-dash vent at something like 10°C/50°F); third best is the pressure method (i.e., add refrigerant until the low-pressure side is 25 psi to 45 psi ... aim for around 32 psi (assuming shade, ambient, & humidity listed prior); worst is by can weight (e.g., adding a 12oz by weight can or a 16oz can by weight but the AC is a critical-charge system that won't tolerate refrigerant quantities much outside + or - .05 kg). [Volume: E39's built up to 12/97 contain 1,225 grams +/- 25 grams (2.70 lbs +/- 0.05 lbs) of R-134a; E39s built after 12/97 contain 750 grams +/- 10 grams (1.65 lb +/- 0.03lb) of R-134a. The amount of PAG oil misted in the system is said to be about 1 ounce by volume.] Replacement Interval: Lifetime charge.

- Differential (conventional, i.e., non-limited-slip E39s): The Bentleys specify "BMW SAF-XO synthetic final drive gear oil" which doesn't exist (it's Castrol). The Bentleys don't specify the weight (it's SAE 75W-90); and the Bentleys don't specify the quality (it's API GL-5 hypoid gear oil). Given that, suitable replacements are Amsoil Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF) API 75W90,Mobil1, Royal Purple Max-Gear, & Redline SAE 75W90 API GL-5 synthetic gear oils. Unfortunately, there's no way to tell which of the three (3) different differentials you have w/o looking at the numbers molded into the metal. Bentley page 020-11 & 020-26 & 331-6. [Volume: Type G=1.7 quarts, Type 188 Compact=1.1 quarts, Type 220/215 Compact=1.5 quarts.] Replacement Interval: Lifetime fluid (but most recommend replacing differential fluid at the same time you replace transmission fluid, which is about 5 years or roughly 60K miles).
- Differential (limited-slip E39s, such as the M5): BMW SAF-XJ API GL-5 SAE 75W-140 synthetic hypoid final-drive gear oil (aka Castrol SAF-XJ). This requirement is not listed in the Bentley manual; it is gleaned from the Castrol literature and from what is stated about the M5 in this thread below (please correct if necessary). Replacement Interval: Lifetime fluid (but most recommend replacing differential fluid at the same time you replace transmission fluid, which is about 5 years or roughly 60K miles).

- Battery: A charged battery is 33.5% (volume/volume%) sulfuric acid (4.2 Molar H₂SO_4, ) & distilled water (Bentley 020-23) with positive plates containing lead dioxide(PbO₂) and negative plates of lead (Pb), both mixed with calcium (Ca) to minimize gassing (i.e., loss of water) and other elements (such as tin, antimony, & selenium to harden the plates and simplify manufacturing) in a polypropylene case. In the discharged state, both plates turn to lead sulfate (PbSO₄) as the electrolyte loses its dissolved sulfuric acid and becomes primarily water (which can freeze in cold temperatures and the lead sulfate may form insoluble crystals which, over time, reduce the capacity of the battery if it is not recharged immediately after discharge).  [Total Volume: unknown but users have reported adding about 20 ml per cell after two years of use]. Replacement Interval: Lifetime fluid (top off only if needed, after removing steel strap, two stickers and then unscrewing the six cell caps, and filling to the fill line which is 1/4 inch or 5mm above the top of the plates at the very bottom of the internal black plastic depth indicator). The OEM battery has built-in hydrometer where green indicates a charged  battery and black indicates a discharged battery, and yellow indicates a defective battery. Better to test at 27°C/80°F by loading  battery with 15 amperes for 1 minute (or just turn headlights on w/o  engine running) and then perform a 1.265 specific-gravity hydrometer test of each of the six cells (add or subtract 0.004 to the hydrometer reading for every 10°F/6°C above or below 27°C/80°F respectively); and a 12.6 volt open-circuit voltage test across the battery terminals (Bentley 121-5, 121-6). OEM specs are BMW 61.21.8.381.762, USA 729905-10, EN 12V 90Ah 720A, SAE 160 RC 720 CCA. Aftermarket batteries are Duralast 49-DL, Duralast 94-R, NAPA #7549, Deka 649MF, Interstate MTP-93; must have side vent and a stamped date code within the last couple of months.

- Engine fuel (gas): The sticker on the inside of the fuel filler specifies the octane rating to use; most E39s in the USA specify unleaded 91 AKI (the AKI is the average of the RON & the MON). Lower octane ratings can be used as the two piezoelectric knock sensors will retard timing if they sense detonation vibrations which may adversely affect performance but which won't damage the car under normal circumstances. [Volume: 70 liters (18.5 gallons) with a reserve capacity of 8 liters (2 gallons) in the 525i & 530i and a reserve of 10 liters (2.5 gallons) for the 540i]. We're not sure the algorithm for the small round yellow fuel-warning light, but most people say it goes on approximately at 40 miles remaining fuel; chime sounds at approximately half that (need more data). Replacement Interval: Monthly, as fuel reputedly goes "stale" after 30 days; also it's reputed you should fill by the 1/4 to 1/8 mark in order to better cool the fuel pump. Fuel can't be siphoned out due to siphon restrictions 4 inches in but can be bled using other methods.
- Engine fuel (diesel): On page 23 of the Owners Manual, it lists "Diesel oil DIN EN 590", whatever that is. It specifically says not to use rapeseed oil methyl ester (aka RME), or bio diesel oil. Replacement Interval: As needed?

NOTE:
Our decision-making algorithms fit into a small number of categories, vastly influenced by marketing (i.e., influenced by "the big lie"). I've taken college inorganic and organic chemistry (like most of us have) and have made my own decisions about what fluids to use (like all of us have). While I'm in the "gas is gas", "oil is oil", "antifreeze is antifreeze" dogmatic camp, I did realize when writing this that others don't think similarly ... so please continue to improve this listing so that it forms a generally accepted view of the tribal 'we'.

1-27-2011

This is very interesting information. Thanks for providing the BMW specification. The question was asked before what "low viscosity" means, and it never got a seriously good answer. 

As I culled every page of my Bentleys, there is no mention of what viscosity spec to meet to be "low viscosity". This is a common failing of the Bentleys, IMHO.

Googling, to my dismay, I too didn't find this spec mentioned on any official BMW site in a couple of searches run just now. But, like you, I found other brake fluids that mentioned they meet BMW viscosity specs.

In addition to the Pentosin DOT4 LV, picking some of the LV fluids arbitrarily, Hydraulan 404 by BASF, & Castrol "DOT 4 LV", I see they say they meet BMW specs by the ISO 3104 method with a viscosity rating of:

• Maximum viscosity, - 40 °C , 700 mm²/s (per ISO 3104)
• Minimum viscosity, 100 °C, 1.5 mm²/s (per ISO 3104)

INA UKA 4+ seems to have similar maximum cold viscosity numbers by the same ISO 3104 method but much higher minimum hot viscosities:

• Maximum viscosity, - 40 °C , 697 mm²/s
• Minimum viscosity, 100 °C, 2.1 mm²/s

Apparently ATE Super Blue Racing is not low viscosity but ATE SL.6 is. Which means that ATE Super Blue does not meet BMW specifications for our E39s; however, it may be that the low-viscosity need only applies to cold-weather driving (based on this Pentosin quote "low viscosity brake fluids are formulated to withstand cold temperatures without thickening").

But it says nothing about high temperatures (which I would think is where brake fluids most often break down).

So I'm very confused by what the Bentley intimates, versus what most of us are using (I have super blue in mine right now).

To get our answer, I'll open a separate thread to discuss viscosity:

- What is the BMW brake fluid "low viscosity" requirement (facts, not opinion)

1-31-2011

For the record, QSilver7 references the BMW TIS for acceptable power steering fluids here.

BMW Pwr Steering ATF Fluid Type-List.pdf
http://www.bimmerboard.org/members/q...0Type-List.pdf

4-1-2011

The good news is that we have a new proponent of the 100% propanol coolant; the bad news is that I can no longer edit the prior post with the summary of all dozen fluids. 

Rather than re-summarize them all, I'll just add the improvements to the coolant section, with references to the propanol pioneers added today:

Quote:

E39 Engine coolant: phosphate free (for Europe's high-mineral-content water), amine & nitrite/nitrate free (for USA long-life requirements), & low-silicate or silicate free (for Japan requirements) 50:50 mixture of ethylene glycol & water (the Bentleys say distilled water (Bentley 020-11), aka de-mineralized or de-ionized water, some call it purified water, and the BMW AG TIS 12.11.2007 18:56 specifies water with a pH from 6.5 to 8.0, maximum total hardness of 3.6 mmol Ca++/liter, maximum chloride content 100 mg/liter, and maximum sulphate content 100mg/liter; interestingly the BMW TIS says "potable tap water usually fulfills these requirements". EPA reports show San Jose & NYC tap water easily fulfill these requirements. The BMW TIS expressly states additives are not helpful and are not recommended. BMW lists a score of recommended coolants in their BMW AG TIS 12.11.2007 18:55 which meet the BMW N 600 69.0 standard, some of which are BMW PN:81.22.9.407.454 1.5-liter; BMW PN:88.88.6.900.316 1 gallon; Castrol Anti-Freeze NF; BASF Glysantin Protect Plus G48, & Havoline AFC (BD04); but most of which are not easily found in the USA. Many Bimmerfesters recommend BMW  coolant; however other Bimmerfesters recommend Prestone Extended Life 5/150, Valvoline Zerex G-05, and Service Pro Universal Formula. Others (e.g., chiefwej, aioros), have tested Evans NPG+ but be aware propanol entails a different  maintenance philosophy than the aqueous fluids listed above and is not compatible with them. [Total Volume: 1997 I6=10.5 quarts (2.6 gallons), 1997 V8=12.0 quarts (3.0 gallons), 1998-2002 I6=11.1 quarts (2.8 gallons), 1998-2002 V8=12.7 quarts (3.2 gallons), 1997-2002 V8 with latent heater=13.5 quarts (3.4 gallons)].  Prestone says the only reason for phosphate free is the extremely high mineral content of water in Europe - and that in the USA, it's not needed. Replacement Interval: Every three years (Bentley page 020-9) or every four years (aforementioned BMW AG TIS) starting from date of manufacture (except for M-Power vehicles which have 3-year intervals). Note: Mixing BMW-recommended coolant brands is permissible; but mixing types is not permissible unless it's an emergency.

In addition, I'll be making a separate summary of the pros and cons of the Evans NPG+ solution; here are some related threads:

- Changed OEM coolant for Evans NPG+, by aioros ('99 528i) 

- I did it! A zero pressure cooling system, by chiefwej (2003 540i/6 //m-tech)

- Evans NPG+ Waterless Coolant --anyone use in a v8?

- Evans Coolant. Anybody use it?

And, here's what we have for the pressure cap:

- Solution to Exploding radiators (30psi/2.0bar pressure cap -> 20psi/1.4bar)

And, for the 'typical' coolant, these are useful:

- The truth about Coolants

- What Coolant you using?

- Best coolent to use for my e39??

The philosophy here is to have a canonical thread on each of the BMW E39 "fluids" and then to summarize the results here, for our glovebox reference.

For the record, here are what I think might be the canonical references for each of the dozen fluids. (Some are arbitrary and therefore are selected to be canonical, because no other canonical thread was clearly better.)

- BMW E39 fluid summary printout for your glovebox (1)
- Fundamental BMW fluids decision-making religious camps (1) and algorithms specific to motor oil selection (1), coolant doctrine (1), & gasoline dogma (1)
- Manual transmission fluid (1) (2) & manual transmission fluid-change DIYs (1) (2) (3)
- Automatic transmission fluid (1) (2) (3) (4) & automatic transmission fluid & filter DIYs (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & torque values (1) & how to find the hidden E39 transmissionfluid level dipstick (1) & why ATF gushes out of the fill hole (1) & ZF 5HP19 facts (1)
- Power steering fluid (1) (2) & power steering fluid flush DIYs (1) (2) (3) (4) & volumes (1)
- Coolant, for engine, automatic transmission, power steering, and AC evaporator cooling (1) & bleeding (1) (2) (3) or refilling DIYs (1)
- Brake & clutch hydraulic fluid (1) & brake-job fluids (1) how brake bleeding DIYs (1) (2) (3) (4) (5)
- Engine lubrication, i.e., motor oil (1) (2) (3) & gravity oil change DIY (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & vacuum extraction DIY (1) (2) (3) & drill pump DIY (1)
- Air conditioner refrigerant & PAG oil (1) & how to refill your A/C system (1) (2) (3) (4)
- Rear differential hypoid gear oil (1) & differential fluid change DIYs (1) (2) (3)
- What battery (1) & what battery maintenance (1) & battery electrolyte (1) & battery replacement DIY (1) (2) (3) & how NOT to change the battery (1) (2) (3)
- Engine fuel, i.e., gasoline & octane (1) & "The Gasoline FAQ" & top-tier gas stations (1) & Techron additives (1) & how to clean your gas gauge sending unit (1)
- Windshield washer fluid (1)
- Intensive cleaning system fluid (1)
- Tire pressure, although not technically a fluid (1)
Others:
- Recommended E39 brake job "fluids" (1)
- Best product for cleaning wheels (1)
- Window glass cleaner fluids & cloths for the inside window & windshield glass (1)
- Interior cockpit & dashboard cleaners (1)

4-5-2011

Today, cn90 & Mudbone figured out how to replace the I6 oil pan gasket without removing anything else other than the oil pan itself:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Replaced oil pan gasket

I'm still a bit confused about the sealant to use, so, in digging up solutions, I found this BMW technical summary of "BMW Oils, Lubricants, Sealants, and Thread Lockers" that may be useful for this summary one-page-printout for your glovebox thread.

4-15-2011

For the record, JimLev confirmed in post #5 over here that only the E39 V8 has a drain plug on the bottom of the power steering pump; the E39 I6 does not have a drain plug anywhere.

- HELP!!! Power steering pump drain plug locatation for bleeding

Also, I confirmed ithat 8 ounces (250 ml) of fluid can be suctioned out of the power steering fluid reservoir, in post #12 over here:

- How much volume of power steering fluid do we have in the E39?

And, I confirmed a single magnetized T20 Torx driver will remove the bolt holding the screen down so you can access it better for cleaning in that same post above.

And, Jimmys 530i kindly confirmed the 2-quart volume for the power steering fluid in post #12 here:

- HELP!!! Power steering pump drain plug locatation for bleeding

Based on a discussion of ATF for the power steering fluid today:

- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Cloudy ATF in PS resevoir

I point users to this Wikipedia statement on Dexron III:

Quote:

All DEXRON-III licenses expired at the end of 2006, and will not be renewed.

And, to this article reference on the rollout of Dexron VI in April 13, 2005:

- GM Rolls Out Dexron-VI, By Tim Sullivan

Quote:

Changes also have been made to the licensing program. Rather than licensing fluids directly, GM will license chemistries that meet the specification's requirements, leaving it to additive companies to issue sub-licenses for approved finished fluids. Afton, currently the only company with an approved chemistry, said it will not charge separate licensing fees. GM charges an annual fee of $3,000 per product under the old program.

As for the difference between Dexron III and Dexron VI:

Quote:

GM claims that Dexron-VI delivers more than twice the durability and stability in friction tests than do existing fluids.

Note: The article doesn't say what "existing fluids" means though; you are left to 'presume' that means Dexron III; but that might not be the case.

The implication is that Dexron VI will 

Quote:

"perform more consistently in extreme conditions and that would degrade less over time"

And, that the difference is that GM

Quote:

"raising requirements for oxidative and shear stability, foam performance and protection against pitting"

dexron_6_rollout.pdf

8-1-2011

- Glovebox printout: BMW E39 fluid summary printout for your glovebox (1)
- Motor oil: BMW approved motor oils (pdf) & tribal motor oil recommendations (1) (2) (3) & gravity oil change DIY (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & vacuum extraction DIY (1) (2) (3) & drill pump DIY (1)
- Gasoline: Engine fuel & octane (1) & "The Gasoline FAQ" & top-tier gas stations (1) & Techron additives (1) & how to clean your gas gauge sending unit (1) & mpg calculations (1) how large is the fuel tank and reserve in the E39 (1) & what gasoline to use (1) & how much gas should be left to cool the fuel pump (1) & how to siphon the fuel out of the tank (1) & what is the cost differential between 87 & 91 octane AKI (1)
- MTF: Manual transmission fluid (1) (2) & manual transmission fluid-change DIYs (1) (2) (3)
- ATF: Automatic transmission fluid (1) (2) (3) (4) & automatic transmission fluid & filter DIYs (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & torque values (1) & how to find the hidden E39 transmission fluid level dipstick (1) & why ATF gushes out of the fill hole (1) & ZF 5HP19 facts (1)
- PSF: Power steering fluid (1) (2) & power steering fluid flush DIYs (1) (2) (3) (4) & volumes (1)
- Coolant: Coolant, for engine, automatic transmission, power steering, and AC evaporator cooling (1) & various methods for refilling (1) & bleeding the E39 cooling system (1) (2)
- Brake & clutch fluid: Brake & clutch hydraulic fluid (1) & recommended E39 brake job "fluids" (1) & how brake bleeding DIYs (1) (2) (3) (4) (5)
- A/C: Air conditioner refrigerant & PAG oil (1) & how to refill your A/C system (1) (2) (3) (4) & what to use to rid yourself of the BMW gym sock stink (1)
- Differential: Rear differential hypoid gear oil (1) & differential fluid change DIYs (1) (2) (3)
- Battery: What battery (1) & what battery maintenance (1) & battery electrolyte (1) & battery replacement DIY (1) (2) (3) & how NOT to change the battery (1) (2) (3)
- Windshield fluid: Windshield washer fluid (1)
- Intensive cleaner: Intensive cleaning system fluid (1)
- Windows: Window glass cleaner fluids & cloths for the inside window & windshield glass (1)
- Tire air: Recommended tire pressures (1) (2) (3) & the claimed benefits of nitrogen gas (1) (2)
- Wheels: Best product for cleaning wheels (1)
- Interior: Interior cockpit & dashboard cleaners (1)
- Carpets: Suggested carpet cleaners (1)
- Floormats: Suggested floor mat cleaning & shampooing (1)
- Headliner: Solvent for cleaning the headliner fabric (1)
- Vapor barriers: Sealant for door panel vapor barriers (1) & sizes for the adhesive (1)
- Engine cleaner: External engine degreaser, engine bay cleaning & engine compartment detailing (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8)
- BMW list of lubricants, sealants, & thread lockers (pdf) (shrunk gif) (original-size jpg)
- Fundamental BMW decision-making religious camps (1) & motor oil Petrolism (1), coolant decisions (1), & gasoline dogma (1)

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluebee - I just updated the tribal recommendations

And, if you have better inspection I, II, and III checklists, please let me know so I can update them also as I just did in this thread today:

- E39 (1997 - 2003) > 1998 540i inspection two

Quote:

- BMW service/maintenance schedule & checklists I, II, and III (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & an archived BMW CPO PPI inspection checklist (1) & a classic E39 inspection I, II, III DIY (1) (2) (3) & tips for BMW E39 150K mile maintenance issues (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) & a glovebox printout for replacing all fluids (1).

Likewise, for a canonical thread for the most common E39 issues:

Quote:

• Behr cooling system leaking
• Plastic DISA valve breaking & destroying the engine
• Cluster pixel tape lifting
• MID pixel tape lifting
• Hella PBT headlight adjusters breaking
• Power steering cap & hose leaking
• Trunk wiring loom fraying
• CCV clogging
• Bosch ABS control module frying
• Cupholders breaking
• I6 VANOS seals deteriorating
• V8 valley pan gaskets leaking
• GKR/BMW/Valeo FSU/FSR dying
• Thrust arm bushings leaking
• Ambient temperature sensor breaking
• Window regulators breaking
• Vapor barrier adhesive leaking
• Jack pads falling off
• Windshield cover molding crumbling
• Driver's seat control switch breaking
• Rear center brakelight socket melting
• Seat cables fall out causing seat twist
• Windshield washer tanks & pumps leaking
• BMW roundel paint chipping
• Vent trim corner cracking & wood trim varnish cracking
• Rear center brake light socket melting

8-3-2011

Based on research for this thread today (where the question was what "freon" smells like):
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > bad odor from a/c.. what to do?

I updated the glovebox printout for the air conditioning by adding the chemical name for the R134a and linking to a datasheet for both the R134a and for the polyalkaline glycol oil mixed with the refrigerant in the E39.

Quote:

- Air conditioner: Refrigerant 134a (aka R-134a, 1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane) with poly alkylene glycol  oil, sometimes referred to as poly alkaline glycol oil (aka PAG refrigerant  oil).  Bentley book II, 640-2 & 640-3 & 640-23. The PAG oil is known by other names such as ND8, PAG46, and BMW PN: 82.11.1.468.042 and travels with the refrigerant as a mist. Best to empty and then refill refrigerant by total weight; second best is the evaporator temperature method (i.e., in the shade, ambient temperature less than about 75°F and relative humidity below about 60% - then add R-134a until the evaporator exit air temperature with A/C set on max at 60°F is 4°C/39°F or colder - the best you can do without MoDIS is probably the center-dash vent at something like 10°C/50°F); third best is the pressure method (i.e., add refrigerant until the low-pressure side is 25 psi to 45 psi ... aim for around 32 psi (assuming shade, ambient, & humidity listed prior); worst is by can weight (e.g., adding a 12oz by weight can or a 16oz can by weight but the AC is a critical-charge system that won't tolerate refrigerant quantities much outside + or - .05 kg). [Volume: E39's built up to 12/97 contain 1,225 grams +/- 25 grams (2.70 lbs +/- 0.05 lbs) of R-134a; E39s built after 12/97 contain 750 grams +/- 10 grams (1.65 lb +/- 0.03lb) of R-134a. The amount of PAG oil misted in the system is said to be about 1 ounce by volume.] Replacement Interval: Lifetime charge.

msds_pag46.pdf

msds_r134a.pdf

8-4-2011

I realized, based on the answer to this thread today:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > 2000 E39 Power Steering Fluid

That the power steering fluid section above needed improvement.

Here is what we have so far:
[quote]
- PSF: Power steering fluid (1) (2) & power steering fluid flush DIYs (1) (2) (3) (4) & volumes (1)

- Power steering: Dexron III ATF Bentley page 020-20. (realistically, that means Dexron VI ATF because all GM Dexron III licenses expired at the end of 2006 & were not renewed by GM). Note: The E39 I6 (i.e., rack and pinion steering attached to an aluminum subframe) does NOT have a power steering drain bolt on the bottom of the steering pump; the E39 V8 (i.e., recirculating ball and nut attached to a steel subframe) power steering DOES have a drain bolt on the bottom of the power steering pump. Replacement Interval: Bentley says it's "permanently filled"; but most of us would replace the hygroscopic power steering fluid at 30,000 miles; some recommendremoving the 8 ounces (250 ml) in the reservoir at every oil change - and removing the T20 Torx bolt on the permanent reservoir screen every 5 years to clean the circular filter more thoroughly to prevent cavitation - and to replace the power steering cap o-ring every five years to prevent misting. [Volume: about 2 quarts to replace; otherwise about 1 quart to flush the reservoir twice & clean the filter screen; the fluid level should be between the MIN/MAX marks on the dipstick].

8-6-2011

For the gory record, see what happens, posted today, if you do NOT clean your power steering filter!
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > 2002 E39 525i - Power steering whine solved in detail



See also this nice cutaway of the filter inside the power steering fluid reservoir:
- BMW Tech Tips - Power Steering Problems/Failure 
- Recommendation to clean your power steering fluid reservoir circular wire mesh filter



And, here is a good thread for a DIY to replace all the power steering hoses:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > DIY: Power Steering Hoses on your 540i

9-29-2011

This is slightly off topic but it may be helpful to others that RDL and I came up with a nice procedure to create a custom glovebox printout of the DTC diagnostic PCodes for any particular ECU.

For example, from this thread, kindly supplemented by RDL:

- Where are ENGINE-specific BMW P1xxx trouble codes?

We came up with this glovebox-printout customization procedure:

Quote:

Luckily, the original 220-page PDF in post #21 from RDL still works:
- BMW-Pcodes[1].pdf

Using the aforementioned conversion procedures, I again converted that hard-to-use 220-page PDF to Adobe Acrobat 4 changeable format so that we can at least cut and paste out the relevant sections for our vehicles.
- all_BMW_pcodes_unprotected.pdf

By way of example, for my 8-page glovebox printout, I then deleted all the pages which were not relevant to my particular 2002 BMW 525i E39 automatic (built 11/2001):
- bluebee_2002_525i_vehicle_codes.pdf

This I saved to Microsoft Excel format & cleaned it up a bit and PDF'd it back again to create this nice glovebox printout of all relevant PCodes for my vehicle:
- bluebee_2002_525i_vehicle_codes_spreadsheet.pdf

My suggestion for glovebox additions:

- The dozen fluids

- All relevant PCodes (I also keep my $22 scanner in the glovebox)

- Tire pressure & lug nut torque (garage guys don't bother to look 'em up)

- Spare cell phone with camera & charger cord (for 911 calls & traffic accident documentation)

10-4-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdl
Next step - a USB key with a plug & play disk image of WDS, TIS & Easy DIS intalled & able to run on any old computer in any shop half way beyond the middle of nowhere that is your only hope of getting your car running again. And oh yes, KSD

That was such a nice idea that I just now opened a new thread so that others may benefit from the ideas:

- What handy items would you put in your BMW E39 glovebox for quick reference & use

Back on topic, Fudman's recent ATF thread has nice suggestions:

- E39 (1997 - 2003) > ESSO ATF Alternatives Update

So I think it's time to update the automatic transmission section above to something like:

- Automatic transmission (green sticker): BMW PN: 83.22.0.024.359 or Texaco ETL 8072B or Shell LA2634 (the Bentleys list different fluids and volumes on page 020-10, 240-6, & 240-8). [Volume w/o torque converter/with torque converter, see reference charts]. Replacement Interval: Lifetime oil (Bentley 240-6); but the user-recommended replacement interval for the fluid and filter is roughly 5 years or about 60K miles. Apparently Pentosin is the OEM oil but FEBI also works. Note: Mixing ATF types will cause transmission failure (Bentley 240-6). My 2002 525i with the ZF 5HP19 (aka A5S 325Z) transmission (6.2 liters/8.9 liters or 6.6 quarts/9.4 quarts) has this green sticker.

- Automatic transmission (black sticker): Dexron III ATF (realistically Dexron VI ATF) BMW PN: 83.22.9.407.807 or Exxon LT-71141 which seems to also be called Esso LT-71141) (Not: the Bentleys list different  fluids on page 020-10 than on page 240-6). [Volume w/o torque converter/with torque converter, see complex reference chart]. Replacement Interval: Lifetime  oil (Bentley 240-6); but the user-recommended replacement interval for the fluid and filter is roughly 5 years or about 60K miles. Note: Mixing ATF types will cause  transmission failure (Bentley 240-6). Some users suggest Castrol Import MV ATF, Valvoline Maxlife ATF, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Mobil Super Multivehicle ATF, & Pentosin ATF, all of which are said to meet Esso/Exxon LT-71141 specifications. (Note: Take special care with Mobil1 as explained here.)

11-5-2011

In helping out someone with their oil change today, I belatedly realized we do not have a volume listing for the older E39 I6 engines in our glovebox printout section on motor oil:

- E39 (1997 - 2003) > If the Brake light is on, How can i determine if it is front or back breaks needed???

See bold red below.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluebee

- Engine oil (E39 1999 & later): 15W40 LL-01 mineral oil BMW PN: 07.51.0.017.868 (amazingly, only one SAE weight is specified! Don't be confused because Bentley page 020-11 lists only SAE 15W40 while page 020-9 confusingly lists only SAE 5W30 & SAE 15W40 but page 020-11 appears to be the specific listing to follow). Various dogmatic camps differ on 'opinions' (1) but there is only one BMW-approved list (1). [Volume: I6=6.9 quarts, V8=7.9 quarts].Replacement Interval: The instrument cluster Service Interval Indicator (SII) will determine when necessary by lighting the yellow light and indicating "OIL SERVICE". On average, most seem to change oil & filter (Mann, Hengst, or Mahle only!) & 36mm 6-point socket oil-filter cap o-ring (91x4mm) & copper crush washer roughly thrice a year at about 4,500 miles; most replace the smaller lower oil-filter-post o-rings every five years or so (7x2.5mm). Keep a spare 17 mm drain bolt handy on the I6 as it's hollow and can break from over tightening (M12x1.5x18mm). Torque filter cap to 18 ft-lb, drain bolt to 21 ft-lb. Note: Mixing oiltypes (mineral vs synthetic) is permissible; but bear in mind "synthetic" is an advertising term and quite a few oils labeled as such are not PAOs or diesters (1). Best to use either the oil-pan gravity-drain method or the MityVac vacuum-extraction method (don't use the Motive vacuum extractor). Most replace the oil filter & oil-filter-cap o-ring on every oil change and the lower small o-rings on every other change. Keep a spare oil drain plug handy, especially in the I6 as the bolt is hollow and prone to breaking when over torqued.
- Engine oil (gas, E39 1997 & 1998): Synthetic 5W-30 LL-01 (aka long-life 2001) BMW PN: 07.51.0.017.866 (amazingly, only one SAE weight is specified! This is confusing because Bentley page 020-11 lists only SAE 5W30 while page 020-9 confusingly lists only SAE 5W30 & SAE 15W40 but the 020-11 appears to be the specific listing). Replacement Interval: The instrument cluster Service Interval Indicator (SII) will determine when necessary. Note: Mixing oil types (mineral vs synthetic) is permissible. On average, most seem to change oil & filter roughly thrice a year at about 4,500 miles.
- Engine oil (diesel): I can't find anything in the Bentleys; but the euro owners manual lists on page 152 "ACEA: A3/B3 or ACEA: A3/B4" specifications which all long-life-01 oils meet (according to that owners manual). Most people here say to use LL-04 approved oils (1). Replacement Interval: The instrument clusterService Interval Indicator (SII) will determine when necessary.

Are the 6.9/7.9 quarts oil volumes in the gas, E39 1997 & 1998 E39s the same as in the rest?

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluebee - Are the 6.9/7.9 quarts oil volumes in the gas, E39 1997 & 1998 E39s the same as in the rest?

Over here, just moments ago, QSilver7 kindly confirmed this is the case:

-  If the Brake light is on, How can i determine if it is front or back breaks needed???

Here is the update:

- Engine oil (E39 1999 & later): 15W40 LL-01 mineral oil BMW PN: 07.51.0.017.868 (amazingly, only one SAE weight is specified! Don't be confused because Bentleypage 020-11 lists only SAE 15W40 while page 020-9 confusingly lists only SAE 5W30 & SAE 15W40 but page 020-11 appears to be the specific listing to follow). Various dogmatic camps differ on 'opinions' (1) but there is only one BMW-approved list (1). [Volume: I6=6.9 quarts, V8=7.9 quarts]. Replacement Interval: The instrument clusterService Interval Indicator (SII) will determine when necessary by lighting the yellow light and indicating "OIL SERVICE". On average, most seem to change oil & filter (Mann, Hengst, or Mahle only!) & 36mm 6-point socket oil-filter cap o-ring (91x4mm) & copper crush washer roughly thrice a year at about 4,500 miles; most replace the smaller lower oil-filter-post o-rings every five years or so (7x2.5mm). Keep a spare 17 mm drain bolt handy on the I6 as it's hollow and can break from over tightening (M12x1.5x18mm). Torque filter cap to 18 ft-lb, drain bolt to 21 ft-lb. Note: Mixing oil types (mineral vs synthetic) is permissible; but bear in mind "synthetic" is an advertising term and quite a few oils labeled as such are not PAOs or diesters (1). Best to use either the oil-pan gravity-drain method or the MityVac vacuum-extraction method (don't use the Motive vacuum extractor). Most replace the oil filter & oil-filter-cap o-ring on every oil change and the lower small o-rings on every other change. Keep a spare  oil drain plug handy, especially in the I6 as the bolt is hollow and prone to breaking when over torqued.

- Engine oil (gas, E39 1997 & 1998): Synthetic 5W-30 LL-01 (aka long-life 2001) BMW PN: 07.51.0.017.866 (amazingly, only one SAE weight is specified! This is confusing because  Bentley page 020-11 lists only SAE 5W30 while page 020-9 confusingly lists only SAE 5W30 & SAE 15W40 but the 020-11 appears to be the specific listing). [Volume: I6=6.9 quarts, V8=7.9 quarts]. Replacement Interval: The  instrument cluster Service Interval Indicator (SII) will determine when necessary. Note: Mixing oil types (mineral vs synthetic) is permissible. On average, most seem to change  oil & filter roughly thrice a year at about 4,500 miles.

- Engine oil (diesel): I can't find anything in the Bentleys; but the euro owners manual lists on page 152 "ACEA: A3/B3 or ACEA: A3/B4" specifications which all long-life-01 oils meet (according to that owners manual). Most people here say to use LL-04 approved oils (1). Replacement Interval: The instrument cluster Service Interval Indicator (SII) will determine when necessary.

11-15-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdl
According to ZF ATF reference, green labels are LT71141 and black label are Dexron. LT71141 and Dexron are not the same. None of the black label units are LT71141.

I think I (or the Bentleys?) had the green and black reversed (???) so is this update now correct (at least for the automatic transmission fluid)?

- Automatic transmission (black label): BMW PN: 83.22.0.024.359 or Texaco ETL 8072B or Shell LA2634 (the Bentleys list different fluids and volumes on page 020-10, 240-6, & 240-8). [Volume w/o torque converter/with torque converter, see reference charts]. Replacement Interval: Lifetime oil (Bentley 240-6); but the user-recommended replacement interval for the fluid and filter is roughly 5 years or about 60K miles. Apparently Pentosin is the OEM oil but FEBI also works. Note: Mixing ATF types will cause transmission failure (Bentley 240-6). My 2002 525i with the ZF 5HP19 (aka A5S 325Z) transmission (6.2 liters/8.9 liters or 6.6 quarts/9.4 quarts) has this green sticker.

- Automatic transmission (green label): Dexron III ATF (realistically Dexron VI ATF) BMW PN: 83.22.9.407.807 or Exxon LT-71141 which seems to also be called Esso LT-71141) (Not: the Bentleys list different fluids on page 020-10 than on page 240-6). [Volume w/o torque converter/with torque converter, see complex reference chart]. Replacement Interval: Lifetime  oil (Bentley 240-6); but the user-recommended replacement interval for the fluid and filter is roughly 5 years or about 60K miles. Note: Mixing ATF types will cause  transmission failure (Bentley 240-6). Some users suggest Castrol Import MV ATF, Valvoline Maxlife ATF, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Mobil Super Multivehicle ATF, & Pentosin ATF, all of which are said to meet Esso/Exxon LT-71141 specifications. (Note: Take special care with Mobil1 as explained here.)

- Manual transmission (yellow sticker): BMW PN: 83.22.9.408.942 or MTF-LT-1 (manual transmission fluid, lifetime, I'm not sure what the "1" means) Bentley page 020-10 & 020-30. [Volume: See chart below.] Replacement Interval: Lifetime oil (Bentley 230-6). A user-recommended fluid is "Royal Purple Synchromax 1512 manual transmission fluid" & Redline MT-90; also recommended is Redline D4 ATF or Redline MTL or Mobil1 Synthetic; the user-recommended replacement interval is roughly 5 years or about 60K miles.

- Manual transmission (orange sticker): The Bentleys, on page 200-4, simply say "ATF" (aka ATF-Oil). Nothing more. Note: This orange sticker is not mentioned in the Bentleys page 020-10 & 020-30 but is noted on page 200-4. Replacement Interval: Lifetime oil (Bentley 230-6); but the user-recommended replacement interval is roughly 5 years or about 60K miles.

- Power steering: Dexron III ATF Bentley page 020-20. (realistically, that means Dexron VI ATF because all GM Dexron III licenses expired at the end of 2006 & were not renewed by GM). Note: The E39 I6 (i.e., rack and pinion steering attached to an aluminum subframe) does NOT have a power steering drain bolt on the bottom of the steering pump; the E39 V8 (i.e., recirculating ball and nut attached to a steel subframe) power steering DOES have a drain bolt on the bottom of the power steering pump. Replacement Interval: Bentley says it's "permanently filled"; but most of us would replace the hygroscopic power steering fluid at 30,000 miles; some recommend removing the 8 ounces (250 ml) in the reservoir at every oil change - and removing the T20 Torx bolt on the permanent reservoir screen every 5 years to clean the circular filter more thoroughly to prevent cavitation - and to replace the power steering cap o-ring every five years to prevent misting. [Volume: about 2 quarts to replace; otherwise about 1 quart to flush the reservoir twice & clean the filter screen; the fluid level should be between the MIN/MAX marks on the dipstick].  

- Air conditioner: Refrigerant 134a (aka R-134a, 1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane) with poly alkylene glycol  oil, sometimes referred to as poly alkaline glycol oil (aka PAG refrigerant  oil).  Bentley book II, 640-2 & 640-3 & 640-23. The PAG oil is known by other names such as ND8, PAG46, and BMW PN: 82.11.1.468.042 and travels with the refrigerant as a mist. Best to empty and then refill refrigerant by total weight; second best is the evaporator temperature method (i.e., in the shade, ambient temperature less than about 75°F and relative humidity below about 60% - then add R-134a until the evaporator exit air temperature with A/C set on max at 60°F is 4°C/39°F or colder - the best you can do without MoDIS is probably the center-dash vent at something like 10°C/50°F); third best is the pressure method (i.e., add refrigerant until the low-pressure side is 25 psi to 45 psi ... aim for around 32 psi (assuming shade, ambient, & humidity listed prior); worst is by can weight (e.g., adding a 12oz by weight can or a 16oz can by weight but the AC is a critical-charge system that won't tolerate refrigerant quantities much outside + or - .05 kg). [Volume: E39's built up to 12/97 contain 1,225 grams +/- 25 grams (2.70 lbs +/- 0.05 lbs) of R-134a; E39s  built after 12/97 contain 750 grams +/- 10 grams (1.65 lb +/- 0.03lb) of R-134a. The amount of PAG oil misted in the system is said to be about 1 ounce by volume.] Replacement Interval: Lifetime charge.  

E39 Engine coolant: phosphate free (for Europe's high-mineral-content water), amine & nitrite/nitrate free (for USA long-life requirements), & low-silicate or silicate free (for Japan requirements) 50:50 mixture of ethylene glycol & water (the Bentleys say distilled water (Bentley 020-11), aka de-mineralized or de-ionized water, some call it purified water, and the BMW AG TIS 12.11.2007 18:56 specifies water with a pH from 6.5 to 8.0, maximum total hardness of 3.6 mmol Ca++/liter, maximum chloride content 100 mg/liter, and maximum sulphate content 100mg/liter; interestingly the BMW TIS says "potable tap water usually fulfills these requirements". EPA reports show San Jose & NYC tap water easily fulfill these requirements. The BMW TIS expressly states additives are not helpful and are not recommended. BMW lists a score of recommended coolants in their BMW AG TIS 12.11.2007 18:55 which meet the BMW N 600 69.0 standard, some of which are BMW PN:81.22.9.407.454 1.5-liter; BMW PN:88.88.6.900.316 1 gallon; Castrol Anti-Freeze NF; BASF Glysantin Protect Plus G48, & Havoline AFC (BD04); but most of which are not easily found in the USA. Many Bimmerfesters recommend BMW  coolant; however other Bimmerfesters recommend Prestone Extended Life 5/150, Valvoline Zerex G-05, and Service Pro Universal Formula. Others (e.g., chiefwej, aioros), have tested Evans NPG+ but be aware propanol entails a different  maintenance philosophy than the aqueous fluids listed above and is not compatible with them. [Total Volume: 1997 I6=10.5 quarts (2.6 gallons), 1997 V8=12.0 quarts (3.0 gallons), 1998-2002 I6=11.1 quarts (2.8 gallons), 1998-2002 V8=12.7 quarts (3.2 gallons), 1997-2002 V8 with latent heater=13.5 quarts (3.4 gallons)].  Prestone says the only reason for phosphate free is the extremely high mineral content of water in Europe - and that in the USA, it's not needed. Replacement Interval: Every three years (Bentley page 020-9) or every four years (aforementioned BMW AG TIS) starting from date of manufacture (except for M-Power vehicles which have 3-year intervals). Note: Mixing BMW-recommended  coolant brands is permissible; but mixing types is not permissible unless it's an emergency. 

- Engine oil (E39 1999 & later): 15W40 LL-01 mineral oil BMW PN: 07.51.0.017.868 (amazingly, only one SAE weight is specified! Don't be confused because Bentleypage 020-11 lists only SAE 15W40 while page 020-9 confusingly lists only SAE 5W30 & SAE 15W40 but page 020-11 appears to be the specific listing to follow). Various dogmatic camps differ on 'opinions' (1) but there is only one BMW-approved list (1). [Volume: I6=6.9 quarts, V8=7.9 quarts]. Replacement Interval: The  instrument clusterService Interval Indicator (SII) will determine when necessary by lighting the yellow light and indicating "OIL SERVICE". On average, most seem to change oil & filter (Mann, Hengst, or Mahle only!) & 36mm 6-point socket oil-filter cap o-ring (91x4mm) & copper crush washer roughly thrice a year at about 4,500 miles; most replace the smaller lower oil-filter-post o-rings every five years or so (7x2.5mm). Keep a spare 17 mm drain bolt handy on the I6 as it's hollow and can break from over tightening (M12x1.5x18mm). Torque filter cap to 18 ft-lb, drain bolt to 21 ft-lb. Note: Mixing oil types (mineral vs synthetic) is permissible; but bear in mind "synthetic" is an advertising term and quite a few oils labeled as such are not PAOs or diesters (1). Best to use either the oil-pan gravity-drain method or the MityVac vacuum-extraction method (don't use the Motive vacuum extractor). Most replace the oil filter & oil-filter-cap o-ring on every oil change and the lower small o-rings on every other change. Keep a spare  oil drain plug handy, especially in the I6 as the bolt is hollow and prone to breaking when over torqued.

- Engine oil (gas, E39 1997 & 1998): Synthetic 5W-30 LL-01 (aka long-life 2001) BMW PN: 07.51.0.017.866 (amazingly, only one SAE weight is specified! This is confusing because  Bentley page 020-11 lists only SAE 5W30 while page 020-9 confusingly lists only SAE 5W30 & SAE 15W40 but the 020-11 appears to be the specific listing). [Volume: I6=6.9 quarts, V8=7.9 quarts]. Replacement Interval: The  instrument cluster Service Interval Indicator (SII) will determine when necessary. Note: Mixing oil types (mineral vs synthetic) is permissible. On average, most seem to change  oil & filter roughly thrice a year at about 4,500 miles.

- Engine oil (diesel): I can't find anything in the Bentleys; but the euro owners manual lists on page 152 "ACEA: A3/B3 or ACEA: A3/B4" specifications which all long-life-01 oils meet (according to that owners manual). Most people here say to use LL-04 approved oils (1). Replacement Interval: The instrument cluster Service Interval Indicator (SII) will determine when necessary. 

- Brakes (9/1998 and later): "low viscosity" "high performance" DOT 4 (while the Bentleys clearly specify both "low viscosity DOT 4" on page 340-9 and "high performance DOT4" on page 020-11 and just plain old "DOT 4" on page 020-24, some recommend DOT4 ISO6 (aka Class 6, ISO 4925) low viscosity brake fluid over just regular DOT4, especially in colder climes). While the Bentleys do not specify what viscosity they consider to be "low"). Further inspection reveals a viscosity of 700mm^2 at -104°F can be considered "low viscosity". However any good DOT 4 brake fluid can be used; but most recommend ATE Super Blue DOT 4 or "Original ATE SL.6" brake fluid. Many recommend alternating amber and blue colors to ascertain when the flush is complete. [Volume: Most people use about 750 ml or about 3/4 quart to flush the four wheels manually and slightly more than a liter to pressure bleed, depending on technique; so buy at least a liter (or quart) to power flush your entire brake system.] Replacement Interval: Every two (2) years (Bentley page 020-9) starting from date of manufacture. Best to use the pressure method, e.g., Motive pressure bleeder; but the two-man push-and-open method still works.

- Brakes (up to 8/1998): "high performance" DOT 4 (nobody seems to know what "high performance" means in practical terms; but the Bentleys clearly specify "high performance DOT4" on page 020-11 and just plain old "DOT 4" on page 020-24 and again on page 340-9). Replacement Interval: Every two (2) years (Bentley page 020-9) starting from date of manufacture.

- Hydraulic clutch (manual transmission only): Uses the same fluid & reservoir as the brake fluid, Bentley 020-26. 

- Engine fuel (gas): The sticker on the inside of the fuel filler specifies the octane rating to use; most E39s in the USA specify unleaded 91 AKI (the AKI is the average of the RON & the MON). Lower octane ratings can be used as the two piezoelectric knock sensors will retard timing if they sense detonation vibrations which may adversely affect performance but which won't damage the car under normal circumstances. [Volume: 70 liters (18.5 gallons) with a reserve capacity of 8 liters (2 gallons) in the 525i & 530i and a reserve of 10 liters (2.5 gallons) for the 540i]. We're not sure the algorithm for the small round yellow fuel-warning light, but most people say it goes on approximately at 40 miles remaining fuel; chime sounds at approximately half that (need more data). Replacement Interval: Monthly, as fuel reputedly goes "stale" after 30 days; also it's reputed you should fill by the 1/4 to 1/8 mark in order to better cool the fuel pump. Fuel can't be siphoned out due to siphon restrictions 4 inches in but can be bled using other methods.

- Engine fuel (diesel): On page 23 of the Owners Manual, it lists "Diesel oil DIN EN 590", whatever that is. It specifically says not to use rapeseed oil methyl ester (aka RME), or bio diesel oil. Replacement Interval: As needed?

- Battery: A charged battery is 33.5% (volume/volume%) sulfuric acid (4.2 Molar H₂SO_4, ) & distilled water (Bentley 020-23) with positive plates containing lead dioxide(PbO₂) and negative plates of lead (Pb), both mixed with calcium (Ca) to minimize gassing (i.e., loss of water) and other elements (such as tin, antimony, & selenium to harden the plates and simplify manufacturing) in a polypropylene case. In the discharged state, both plates turn to lead sulfate (PbSO₄) as the electrolyte loses its dissolved sulfuric acid and becomes primarily water (which can freeze in cold temperatures and the lead sulfate may form insoluble crystals which, over time, reduce the capacity of the battery if it is not recharged immediately after discharge).  [Total Volume: unknown but users have reported adding about 20 ml per cell after two years of use]. Replacement Interval: Lifetime fluid (top off only if needed, after removing steel strap, two stickers and then unscrewing the six cell caps, and filling to the fill line which is 1/4 inch or 5mm above the top of the plates at the very bottom of the internal black plastic depth indicator). The OEM battery has built-in hydrometer where green indicates a charged  battery and black indicates a discharged battery, and yellow indicates a defective battery. Better to test at 27°C/80°F by loading  battery with 15 amperes for 1 minute (or just turn headlights on w/o  engine running) and then perform a 1.265 specific-gravity hydrometer test of each of the six cells (add or subtract 0.004 to the hydrometer reading for every 10°F/6°C above or below 27°C/80°F respectively); and a 12.6 volt open-circuit voltage test across the battery terminals (Bentley 121-5, 121-6). OEM specs are BMW 61.21.8.381.762, USA 729905-10, EN 12V 90Ah 720A, SAE 160 RC 720 CCA. Often recommended aftermarket batteries (watch out for the vent hole rearrangement) are Duralast 49-DL, Duralast 94-R, NAPA #7549, Deka 649MF, Interstate MTP-93; must have side vent and a stamped date code within the last couple of months. 

- Differential (conventional, i.e., non-limited-slip E39s): The Bentleys specify "BMW SAF-XO synthetic final drive gear oil" which doesn't exist (it's Castrol). The Bentleys don't specify the weight (it's SAE 75W-90); and the Bentleys don't specify the quality (it's API GL-5 hypoid gear oil). Given that, suitable replacements are Amsoil Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF) API 75W90,Mobil1, Royal Purple Max-Gear, & Redline SAE 75W90 API GL-5 synthetic gear oils. Unfortunately, there's no way to tell which of the three (3) different differentials you have w/o looking at the numbers molded into the metal. Bentley page 020-11 & 020-26 & 331-6. [Volume: Type G=1.7 quarts, Type 188 Compact=1.1 quarts, Type 220/215 Compact=1.5 quarts.] Replacement Interval: Lifetime fluid (but most recommend replacing differential fluid at the same time you replace transmission fluid, which is about 5 years or roughly 60K miles).

- Differential (limited-slip E39s, such as the M5): BMW SAF-XJ API GL-5 SAE 75W-140 synthetic hypoid final-drive gear  oil (aka Castrol SAF-XJ). This requirement is not listed in the  Bentley manual; it is gleaned from the Castrol literature and from what is stated about the M5 in this thread below (please correct if necessary). Replacement Interval: Lifetime fluid (but most recommend replacing differential fluid at the same time you replace  transmission fluid, which is about 5 years or roughly 60K miles).

- Windshield & headlight washer system:  surprisingly, I can't find a specification in the Bentley; it should be in book II section 611, Wipers & Washers; but it's not; the Owners Manual, page 150 (Washer Fluid), it says to use "water" and "screenwash when required" (whatever "screenwash" is). [Volume: 3.7 quarts (0.9 gallons, 3.5 liters) or 6.3 quarts (1.6 gallons, 6.0 liters) with headlamp washer system]. Replacement Interval: When needed.

- Intensive cleaning system: The Owners Manual (page 150, Washer Fluid), says to use "BMW intensive cleaning agent", BMW P/N: 83.12.0.410.745 (500ml bottle). [Volume: 1.1 quarts (1.0 liters)]. Replacement Interval: When needed.

See also:

- Old school maintenance schedule for BMW E39

- Glovebox printout: BMW E39 fluid summary printout for your glovebox (1)

- Motor oil: BMW approved motor oils (pdf) & tribal motor oil recommendations (1) (2) (3) & gravity oil change DIY (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & vacuum extraction DIY (1) (2) (3) & drill pump DIY (1)

- Gasoline: Engine fuel & octane (1) & "The Gasoline FAQ" & top-tier gas stations (1) & Techron additives (1) & how to clean your gas gauge sending unit (1) & mpg calculations (1) how large is the fuel tank and reserve in the E39 (1) & what gasoline to use (1) & how much gas should be left to cool the fuel pump (1) & how to siphon the fuel out of the tank (1) & what is the cost differential between 87 & 91 octane AKI (1)

- MTF: Manual transmission fluid (1) (2) & manual transmission fluid-change DIYs (1) (2) (3)

- ATF: Automatic transmission fluid (1) (2) (3) (4) & automatic transmission fluid & filter DIYs (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & torque values (1) & how to find the hidden E39 transmission fluid level dipstick (1) & why ATF gushes out of the fill hole (1) & ZF 5HP19 facts (1)

- PSF: Power steering fluid (1) (2) & power steering fluid flush DIYs (1) (2) (3) (4) & volumes (1)

- Coolant: Coolant, for engine, automatic transmission, power steering, and AC evaporator cooling (1) & bleeding (1) (2) (3) or refilling DIYs (1)

- Brake & clutch fluid: Brake & clutch hydraulic fluid (1) & recommended E39 brake job "fluids" (1) & how brake bleeding DIYs (1) (2) (3) (4) (5)

- A/C: Air conditioner refrigerant & PAG oil (1) & how to refill your A/C system (1) (2) (3) (4) & what to use to rid yourself of the BMW gym sock stink (1)

- Differential: Rear differential hypoid gear oil (1) & differential fluid change DIYs (1) (2) (3)

- Battery: What battery (1) & what battery maintenance (1) & battery electrolyte (1) & battery replacement DIY (1) (2) (3) & how NOT to change the battery (1) (2) (3)

- Windshield fluid: Windshield washer fluid (1)

- Intensive cleaner: Intensive cleaning system fluid (1)

- Windows: Window glass cleaner fluids & cloths for the inside window & windshield glass (1)

- Tire air: Recommended tire pressures (1) (2) (3) & the claimed benefits of nitrogen gas (1) (2)

- Wheels: Best product for cleaning wheels (1)

- Interior: Interior cockpit & dashboard cleaners (1)

- Carpets: Suggested carpet cleaners (1)

- Floormats: Suggested floor mat cleaning & shampooing (1)

- Headliner: Solvent for cleaning the headliner fabric (1)

- Vapor barriers: Sealant for door panel vapor barriers (1) & sizes for the adhesive (1)

- Engine cleaner: External engine degreaser, engine bay cleaning & engine compartment detailing (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8)

- BMW list of lubricants, sealants, & thread lockers (pdf) (shrunk gif) (original-size jpg)

- Fundamental BMW decision-making religious camps (1) & motor oil Petrolism (1), coolant decisions (1), & gasoline dogma (1)

See also canonical threads on miracle fluids:

- What is Seafoam motor treatment, what does it do, where do you put it, and how does it work (1) 

- What is Techron anyway, what does it do, where do you put, and does it work (1)

- What is Marvel Mystery Oil and what does it do in an E39 (1)

7-25-2012

For the record, the 'fluid' to use on the oil pan gasket is covered in this thread today:

-> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Oil pan gasket!

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdl -TIS says to use sealant at 4 joint points. See attached screen shot.

1-26-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bossman963
These stickers would be on side of tranny ?

It might not be obvious, but for EACH of the dozen fluids, there is a canonical thread, just for that fluid (which is shown as a link at the name of the fluid in the summaries above).

So, I just clicked on that canonical thread for the automatic transmission, and there are many pictures of the stickers in those threads.

Here is a picture, for example, of "my" transmission from that thread:

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdl
Either on the side or a rear facing surface. Visible once you're under the car, although you may have to wipe off grime to see them and the colour

The colors matter greatly because you can't mix fluids!

Some stickers are more visible than others, so here's another picture from that thread:

5-9-2014

Just to keep it together, here's a printable procedure for the oil change interval reset procedure:

- Glovebox printouts for your E39: fluids (1) & bulbs (2) & cabin air filters (3) & oil service interval reset (1) & cluster unlocking (1)

See also:

Quote:

Originally Posted by msingh90
Bluebee,
That's is QSilver7's instruction post that I keep coming across. I will try again but like I said the word Reset never shows up. It keeps saying Test.

As always, I'd read the entire thread, which may have more help for you:

> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Oil Service Indicator Reset - not sure if successful

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluebee
I followed my own instructions and found them lacking because information is lost if you're not ready, ahead of time, for it!

Here's an update, written while sitting in the car (I never did get the brake-service-interval figured out until I found out from QSilver that the E39 has the brake-fluid service interval turned off by default - so it won't show up unless you turn it on with something like Carsoft.)

RESET SERVICE INTERVAL LIGHT: (procedure is for 2001 and later BMW E39 models):
I. Position 0 is the key in, car off position; position 1 is the first detente; position 2 is the second detente; & momentary position 3 will start the car.
II. The service interval indicator (SII) is the squarish box to the left of the rectangular alphanumeric display (don't confuse them);
III. Print these 1-page instructions and keep a pencil handy for jotting down notes; but keep your eyes on the cluster (not on these notes);
IV. You can not reset the SII OILSERVICE lights twice within the same 2.5 gallon period (Bentley 020-5) or until the first 20% (QSilver PDF below);
V. It is possible to interrupt and end the reset procedure by changing the position of the key;
VI. OILSERVICE is due roughly every 15K miles or 12 months (Bentley page 020-3);
VII. INSPECTION I is due roughly every 30K miles or 24 months, INSPECTION II is due every 60K miles or 48 months (Bentley page 020-5);.

DETERMINE CURRENT OIL SERVICE INTERVAL & BRAKE SERVICE INTERVAL & INSPECTION I AND II INTERVAL:
a. Place the key in the ignition but do not turn the key (no lights will display, this is position 0);
b. Turn the key to the first position (this is position 1, the ACCESSORY position):
- the bell will ding incessantly about once per second;
- the red air bag symbol will light for about three bell dings and then go out;
- the odometer, tripmeter, ambient temperature will display;
- the alphanumeric text will momentarily flash whatever you have it set to (e.g., the current date);
- the alphanumeric text will display "KEY IN IGNITION LOCK" which will remain lit;
- but the oil-service display will be unlit;
c. Turn the key to the second position (this is position 2 - you will not start the car):
- lots of lights will be lit;
- the fan may start;
- the dinging will stop after about four dings;
- take note of the color-coded indications in the SII display.
d. Remove the key from the ignition and wait for all displays and bells to cease.

SII OILSERVICE INTERPRETATION:
- five green boxes (100% left of your oil-service interval)
- four green boxes (80% left of your oil-service interval)
- three green boxes (60% left of your oil-service interval)
- two green boxes (40% left of your oil-service interval)
- one green box (20% left of your oil-service interval)
- one yellow box (0% left of your oil-service interval - change your oil & filter and reset the SII)
- one red and one yellow box (you are -8% or more over your oil-service interval - change your oil & filter and reset the SII)

To reset your OILSERVICE or INSPECTION interval:
A. Keep your eyes on your instrument cluster
B. Place the key back in the ignition but do not turn the key (nothing will light while the key is in position 0);
C. Press and hold the trip odometer button (located to the left in the instrument cluster)
- the odometer, tripmeter, and ambient temperature will display.
D. While holding the trip odometer button, turn the ignition key to the first position (i.e., position 1, the ACCESSORY position):
- the red airbag indicator will light for a few seconds;
- the bell will ding incessantly about once every second;
- the text display will momentarily flash what you had it set to (e.g., the date);
- the text display will then show "KEY IN IGNITION LOCK";
- after about 4 dings, both the SII and alphanumeric displays will change;
- the SII box will indicate "OILSERVICE" or "INSPECTION";
- on the low cluster, the text will display "RESET" (or just plain "RE");
- on the high cluster, the text will display "RESET SIA; -1136 l" (or just plain "RE SIA; -1136 l");
- note the number of liters of fuel to the next service interval (in this example, 1,136 liters); (???does that mean I was 1,136 liters (300 gallons, 5K miles) overdue on my service interval???)
- while the text is still displaying this information, lift up on the trip odometer button;
- immediately press down again on the trip odometer button for about 5 seconds;
- take note whether the alphanumeric text display of "RESET" (or "RE") flashes or not;
- if the text "RESET" (or "RE") does not flash, you have not met minimum 2.5 gallon fuel-consumption requirements & resetting the SII is not possible;
- if the text "RESET" (or "RE") does flash, then you can proceed with resetting the SII;
- while the text is flashing, lift up on the trip odometer button and then press down briefly again;
- when you let up on that brief press, the service interval indicator box will be reset back to all green lights;
- the alphanumeric display will then show the new oil service interval in liters (e.g., "SIA 2575 l") (???does that mean I have 2,575 liters (680 gallons, 12 miles) to the next service interval???)
- if you're successful, "END SIA" will appear briefly for about 2 seconds.

See this reference from QSilver (but ignore the part about the brake-fluid service interval and the "clock" icon ... these are not on by default on our E39s.)

7-15-2014

I just belatedly realized that Costco is now top tier ... 

7-16-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by MuscleWagon
Hey blue, where is the DIY for the auxiliary fuel tank install that allows your E39 to hold 36 gallons?

It's here, found under /how large is the fuel tank in the bestlinks:

- How large is the fuel tank and reserve in the E39 (1) 

See also:

- Gasoline: Engine fuel & octane (1) & "The Gasoline FAQ" & top-tier gas stations (1) & Techron additives (1) & how to clean your gas gauge sending unit (1) & mpg calculations (1) how large is the fuel tank and reserve in the E39 (1) & what gasoline to use (1) & how much gas should be left to cool the fuel pump (1) & how to siphon the fuel out of the tank (1) & what is the cost differential between 87 & 91 octane AKI (1)

1-25-2015

We should probably make a good list of the colors of the dozen fluids, so that others, who have leaks as shown in this thread updated today, have a head start:

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluebee
Hmmm... there are only a dozen fluids in the E39.

I'll guess at the colors below:
- Manual & automatic transmission fluid (1) (2) (3) (4) BROWN?
- Power steering fluid (1) RED
- Coolant, for engine, automatic transmission, power steering, and AC evaporator cooling (1) (BLUE, GREEN)
- Brake & clutch hydraulic fluid (1) BROWN, BLUE
- Engine lubrication, i.e., motor oil (1) (2) BROWN, BLACK
- Air conditioner refrigerant & PAG oil (1) ?color?
- Differential hypoid gear oil (1) BROWN
- Battery electrolyte (1) CLEAR
- Engine fuel, i.e., gasoline & octane (1) CLEAR'ish
- Windshield washer fluid (1) CLEAR, slightly BLUE
- Intensive cleaning system fluid (1) CLEARLY SOAPY
- Air conditioning condensation CLEAR (wet)

If you have a leak, it's one of those.

BTW, what color is air conditioning fluid?

Or, would it always be a vapor anyway?

4-2-2015

I was looking up my original vehicle options when I plugged my VIN into this particular VIN decoder, which tells you interesting information about certain fluid volumes and which transmission you originally had:
- BMW VIN decoder (1)

4-3-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by pudl
Time to enjoy some German.

The VIN decoder that gives out the fluid volumes is mostly in English, but I know what you mean, as most of the VIN decoders (which don't spit out fluid volumes) output in Deutsch ...  

- BMW 10-character vehicle defect code lookup tool for dealer service records (1) & how to decode your 17-character BMW VIN (1) & the RealOEM parts list based on your vehicle identification number (1) & a list of online BMW VIN decoders (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) & what is the definitive list of electronic computer modules that need VIN recoding once replaced (1)