Install GTSpec Fender Braces by shaggydog

Passenger side

I started off on the passenger side. Get the front end on jack stands. Use this helpful guide if you are unsure on how to get your vehicle on jack stands. Also put chalks on the rear tires for added safety.

Now lets start by removing your tire. (This is where having an impact wrench makes things a breeze!)

*Note* If you have Rally Armor mudflaps you will need to remove those as well. 

You will need to remove the fender liner and fender panel as well as the first three retaining clips under the side skirt. Follow the beginning of this youtube video for assistance. The video states remove 2 clips from the skide skirt but removing the 3rd clip will give you a bit more room to operate. 

A sample of a few clips that need to be removed:

Fender liner and fender cover removed.

*Note* I did not remove by front bumper however i did later on. I would suggest you go ahead and remove the front bumper to save yourself some time later on down the road. It makes things easier! To remove front bumper go to this thread, i did a quick how-to on it.

Now remove the 3 bolts in the engine bay and the one retaining clip on the headlight fixture.

Remove the bolt behind the front bumper. (If the bumper is off it makes this next part very easy!)

Unscrew the black plastic bracket that secures the fender to the front bumper. (Again much easier to do with bumper off) Id also suggest you remove the black bracket all together. This will come in handy when you reassemble the front fender.

Here's a view from the driver side, note the front bumper removed.

There are two bolts under the side trim. This is where removing the 3rd retaining clip from under neath the side trim gives you a bit more wiggle room.

Another bolt is visible when you open the door.

Remove the black plastic shielding on the windshield to uncover another hidden bolt. 

Remove the fender very carefully. If your door is open ensure the side edge does not scratch your paint. (Yes, it happened to me)

The stock fender brace should now be visible. Unbolt the 4 bolts securing the brace. Watch out for the top bolt on the bottom brace. I had trouble getting this out and i rounded the bolt on the passenger side. I wised up on the driver side and PB Blasted the bolt and then pulled the brace down which torqued the bolt loose. I was then able to loosen the bolt with zero problem. Also cut the 2 zip ties on the right side and use pliers to squeeze the clip in the blue box. You will reuse this on the new brace. 

Pulling brace down on driver side. Pull the brace down to loosen pesky bolt.

Comparison between stock and GTSpec.

Also unbolt the top bolt of the bottom door hinge and the bottom bolt to the top door hinge. The new brace utilizes these bolts to secure it to the vehicle.

To secure the goofy looking hook fastener, hold the end of the fastener and feed it behind the brace. Then screw in the bolt. 

For the bolt on the far right, use your wrench at the back of the nut and tighten the front. (Sorry no pics)

Brace installed.

Comparison:

Zip tie the wire bundle to the new brace. Use the hooks to secure the bundle.

Driver side

The driver side is the same however once the fender is removed you will see a much larger wire bundle. Its held in by a plastic housing secured by two small bolts. Remove those bolts before you can install the brace.

Once your new brace is secured you will have to man handle that plastic wire housing back into place. Both bolts will go back into place with some force. The reason its difficult is because of the two brackets protruding out. Its going to bend the housing. Also dont forget to put the lines back into the housing.

Note the bend.

Now put both fenders back on and reattach your rally armor flaps (if you have them)

Secure your front bumper, (dont forget that black clip that attaches your bumper to your fender. I forgot mine the first time.)

Throw back on your tires and remove your jacks. 

Enjoy your rigid front end! 

At first i really didnt notice that much of a difference, although i took it for a quick test drive around the block. I did notice a difference when i took my usual turns on the highway at greater speeds. The nose really dips in and holds through the turn. I could feel the back end slide out and get a loose a bit, but the front held true. It makes everything very rigid up front but you dont see the full benefits until you are at higher speeds/sharper turns.

*Note* This is my only suspension mod. I will be putting on my whitelines very soon.