xluben's FogTurbo Bugeye

By diyauto
( 2 )

13 minute(s) of a 297 minute read

3-3-2015

Last night I did some wiring for the fuel pump and oil scavenge pump. Both are going to be hardwired with relays. I did as much of the soldering as I could do outside the car. The rest will have to be done in the car.

Any suggestions on a fuse I can tap into to get a 12V signal on the ACC key position from inside the engine bay? I was thinking the rear defrost fuse would work, but my battery is dead so I couldn't check it.



3-6-2015

Earlier this week I attempted to charge my Odyssey slim battery with a new charger I got for Christmas. Something didn't go right and the battery was bulging and very hot when I got back. The charger was set to trickle mode, but it appears it didn't stop charging when it should have. I ended up returning the charger for a better (smarter) one, and bought a new battery.

Bad vs. New



New Charger



Digital readout is much more useful than the analog gauge on the other charger.



New battery and new charger together.



Same model I had before.



Today I got the final piece of the puzzle that I need. TurboWerx Exa-Pump Mini. This is a gear driven pump and appears to be of much higher quality than the Mocal water pump that I had before. I am hoping to get it mounted and wired tonight or later this weekend.








3-8-2015

My brother and I spent about 3-4 hours working on things last night. Got the oil pump mounted and soldered the wire leads onto the relay that I already had mostly set up. Then I soldered all the connections for the fuel pump relay. I put the battery in place and then put fuses into the power wires for the oil and fuel pump.

The oil pump came on immediately. The fuse I had tapped into was providing signal even with the car off apparently. Poked around and tried every fuse in the engine bay and they are all "hot" with the car off. Most are just a small voltage but they're enough to start the pump.

The only one that was truly off was the headlight fuse, but it doesn't show 12V until the car is on and the headlights are turned on. Not what I want. We are still seeing if there are any wires I could tap into in the engine bay, otherwise we will have to pull it into the cabin and tap into the wires that all the gauges are connected to.

After that I tried priming it to check the fuel pump. The fuel pump primed just fine. Injectors were still leaking a little so I pulled them all out and added a bumper and put them all back in. They all seem to seal up fine now.

Somewhere in this process I happened to try priming it with the fuel pump power wire fuse pulled out. It still primed. Something wasn't right. I unplugged the relay completely and it still primed! Doing some more research I found that on the 02 WRX the black/yellow wire is for the fuel sensor. The guide I was using was on an STI and black/yellow is pump power. I believe I have found the correct schematic for my car and the black/red is power.

So tonight I hope to rewire the fuel pump and then run the oil pump wire into the cabin. I believe that is all that is left before starting it up and burping the coolant.


It's alive! I fixed the fuel pump wiring this afternoon. That's working as expected now. Unfortunately I think I fried the fuel level sensor (or possibly fuel temp sensor) when I had the relay wired up incorrectly. The dash just shows no fuel all the time now. For the oil pump my brother realized that we have 12V ACC power running to the boost gauge sender in the engine bay already, so I just spliced into that wire for the oil pump relay signal.

Once all that was done we primed the turbo with oil, fired it up, and then burped the coolant. Took it around the block and it seems to be running well. There was a little oil in the exhaust dump after the initial startup but I think it might have been from all the cranking to prime the turbo. I've done a few restarts since then and I don't see any clouds of smoke. I'll be monitoring it to see if any more oil shows up in the exhaust.

The car still needs a tune but I did take it to the parking ramp a few blocks away for some rolling shots.

Setup Shot:



Setup Shot:



Air Filter:



Velocity Stack:



Engine Bay:



3-10-2015

Update from last night.

Filled it up with E85. I think it was $1.79 or so. Turns out my fuel level sensor wasn't ruined, I just had really low fuel in the tank. Once I filled it up it's back to normal. Good to get a full tank of fresh fuel into the car. I'm right around 190k on the odometer. The car is surprisingly quiet for a <1ft long exhaust. Sounds similar to a GD with no axleback or even a big coffee can exhaust.

We went and did some tuning and got going pretty well. It's siting a little over 30psi right now. Seems to be making similar power to what my 2011 WRX with 6266 made. I want to do a few more pulls before posting anything though. Powerband looks very similar to the 60-1 setup I just took off the car, but the power is great everywhere.



After tuning there was coolant sprayed all over the engine bay. We found out that the alternator pulley had cut the upper radiator hose. I didn't cut it down when I installed the new radiator. NF had a set of Samco hoses in stock so we swapped the hoses and re-burped the system.

Car is pulling strong and even got the speed checked with some government certified equipment on the way home. -_-


This morning I took my daughter to daycare with it and then drove it into work



3-11-2015

I took some photos last night.





And I did an exhaust video and grabbed this screenshot.



FogTurbo Bugeye | 2002 WRX | Exhaust Video | NF Performance




3-12-2015

Here is a speedo video of a couple pulls. 1-2-3-4th and then 3-4th.




I took a look at the 50-100mph times. The pull with just 3rd and 4th appears a hair quicker in the video. The 1-2-3-4 had a couple fairly slow shifts that didn't help. According to the logs that I charted out below they are both in the 3.9 second range, but the video shows a little more of a difference. Overall they are both very close.

50-100mph:
Pull #1 (All Gears): 4.0 sec
Pull #2 (3rd & 4th): 3.9 sec

Here are the plots. Both pulls are up to around 120mph and it's very even all the way. The first two plots are the pulls individually and the third plot is both of those on the same chart. For the fourth chart I went and pulled the log from the 10.9 @ 128mph run and plotted it against the first plot (1-2-3-4). The 6266 is about 2/3 of a second faster from 50-120mph.

1-2-3-4 Plot:



50-120mph Comparison (1-2-3-4 vs. 3-4):




50-120mph Comparison (6266 vs. 60-1):



3-13-2015

I gave it a shot tonight. Did a few runs shifting around 7,000rpm's.




50-100mph (7k Shift Point):
Pull #1: 4.14 sec
Pull #2: 3.93 sec
Pull #3: 3.91 sec

First run I started the pull way too close to 50mph. Probably around 45mph with no brake boosting. The turbo wasn't fully spooled until about 1/2 second in so that hurt the time. Ended up being about 2/10th's slower than the other tries.

The other two runs were clean. One was shifted at 7,000 and the other at about 6,750. All the runs landed right back in the powerband after the shift and boost kept up as well as normal, so that wasn't an issue.

But the times ended up looking nearly identical to when I was shifting higher (around 7,700). About 3.9 seconds. I felt like I had pretty quick shifts for these runs (wearing flip flops like normal, haha).



Got gas afterwards. Blew through a tank this week. I've been driving it to work and back every day. Didn't get very good gasmileage, but I think the number of pulls I've done hasn't helped that...



I'm not sure. I was a little surprised it drops so much too. I thought the big torque hump may be wheelspin but I've had a similar curve on half a dozen pulls throughout the week. Other thought is that it could be my way to small filter killing the top end. It is only 2" long.



This is the worst part.



The original hope was to have the filter site behind the foglight cover. But this one doesn't fit anyways, so I should have just gotten something longer. I have looked into Treadstone, Vibrant, and AEM as well as larger offerings from K&N. I just looked at the filter area to try and decide if any will flow enough to be worth it.

I added yours to the list below. It only has a small amount more filter area than my stubby one. Mine is very short, but the diamter is large so that somewhat makes up for it.

I may also try this foam filter. I'm not sure how well it will flow though. It may end up being much worse than an actual filter. I'd prefer not to have something sticking way out of my bumper, but that may be the best option.

http://turbo-guard.com/turbo-guard-sv/



3-24-2015

Any guesses on how all of these will compare?



3-25-2015

Sorry, I don't walk on water. Unless it's a frozen lake, then I could walk on that...

Here are some more photos of the filters.










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