IT RUNS!!! - My 500whp build - Element motor and Moore Performance Twin Scroll Kit! by dexterous

8 minute(s) of a 312 minute read

As I mentioned a page or so ago, I am swapping a bunch of stuff around to help expand my support options. My goals are to come up with a setup that is compatible with both an AccessPort and a Hydra. When I do switch back to the Hydra it will be on a 2.7 not the 2.6 that I am currently running.
Of everything that needs done, the most complicated piece is swapping injectors. The ultimate racing setup requires side feed TGVs even though they are top feed injectors so changing them out means I need to swap the TGVs and rails too.

I have the following parts set to arrive soon (some are already here):

Used v2 Access port
Co$worth fuel rails (don’t hate, it was the only fast option)
ported 2005 WRX TGVs
AEM 3.5bar MAP sensor
COBB MAP sensor adapter
GM IAT sensor
New 2005 STI engine harness (just to be sure)

I am also changing the springs in my wastegates from 20PSI to 16psi to make the car initially easier to tune. At this point I have already swapped springs and disassembled much of the car. Is there anything else that anybody can suggest I do or check while the car is apart? Is there any way to check the AVCS cam gears while they are installed beyond making sure the timing marks line up?

7-7-2012

Lots of news today! First off, a shout out for buddsautoparts.com for finding me fantastic deals on everything for my car. I really really appreciate everything you have done!

Here are a few picts of what I have and what I got done today:

Converting to the stock ECU required me to get a new IAT sensor and a new MAP sensor. Here's the IAT:

Here's the MAP sensor installed using a Cobb adapter:

I have worked up a new fuel pump control solution based on boost. Here's one of the boost switches that I am going to use:

Here's my set of ID2000s, the most expensive set of injectors I have ever heard of:

My Cosworth fuel rails:

Here's a quick test fit of the rails and injectors:

When we first installed the rails I didnt put an insulator on the upper part of the injector. I quickly noticed that the injectors would easily move up and down so I placed a stock insulator at the top of the injector as seen here:

Notice that the insulators are NOT in the middle picture. Look for the black plastic rubber piece between the fuel rail and the golden injector adapter. Anybody know if this was the correct thing to do?

There are now two bungs in my down pipe so that I can run both a WBO2 and the factory O2:

I did find something of interest. The drivers side (the side with the blackened plugs) had extra fuel residue in the intake ports of the head when compared to the side that seems to work. This tells me that my problem is likely fuel related. The other side is a normal silver looking color:

Here's my new fuel delivery and return layout for. Its still parallel but it now has 100% less "T"s. The blue lines are feed and the green are return. I was able to make this change while keeping all the same lines (they were expensive) and swapping in two fittings (a -6 to -6 union and a 90 degree -6 ORB and -6).

As I am sure you can tell from the picts and my other posts, today went really well. I got a ton of stuff done and I am pretty close to getting the car on the road again. I need two pieces (the fuel system fittings) and then its just a matter of bolting it back together. For the first time in a long time I felt good about working on the car. I am actually excited to start it up on the AP and see what it can do with E85. I need about 500 more miles before I do any power tuning so it will be a little bit.

Speaking of tuning, I am going to have a local tuner help me get the car started on 93oct pump gas. I am also going to have the same tuner help me develop a good map for the car on 93oct immediately following the start-up. My ultimate plan is to have two fully tuned maps, one on 93oct and one on E85. The 93oct map from the local tuner will be a low boost (around 17-18psi) and really only there so that I can drive the car to locations where E85 isnt readily available. The E85 map will be my high power "normal" map running somewhere in the mid 20s of boost. I am somewhat undecided as to who I will have make this map for me but Innovative tuning in Buffalo and PURE Tuning in Toledo, OH are both potential candidates.

7-8-2012

Did you see the question I was asking about the injectors and rails? When I first installed the rails I didnt put an insulator on the upper part of the injector. When I went to plug the wire harnesses into the injectors (after installing the entire manifold assembly on the engine) I noticed that the injectors could be moved around 1/4 inch up and down. There's no way that the bottoms would hold pressure so something was obviously wrong.

I had a set of injectors out of an 2002 wrx so I compared the two to see that the stock injectors had an insulator at the top seat where they mate to the fuel rail. I pulled the insulators off the wrx injectors and put them on the ID2000s to see if that made a difference. That made them fit much better but I am worried because the body on the ID2000s is not squared off like the stock injectors. I could easily see the ID2000s sliding around when the rubber insulators get hot.

No insulators (look at the contour of the injector bodies):

With insulator installed:

7-15-2012

Lots of progress today, here's where I am at:

New IAT and MAP sensors installed and wired up
The mechanical parts of the car are 90% back together
The TGVs and intake manifold are back together
The fuel system is 50% back together (waiting on parts)
About 50% of the electronics have been converted back to stock (wire harnesses, etc)


The remaining steps are:

Reassemble the exhaust
Re-install the top mount oil cooler
Re-install the accessories on the front center of the motor (alternator, etc)
Remove the Hydra
Remove the Hydra's custom harness
Remove the Meth system electronics (leaving the wires in place)
Wire up the boost switch for the fuel system
Tape off and secure any wiring that will remain in the car

Again, the plan here is to leave the wiring, meth plumbing, etc in the car so that I could easily return to the Hydra/Hydramist in the spring.


The best news of all is that I have an appointment with a tuner from a local shop to come to my house and help me start the car on Thursday. The plan is to get a 93oct pump map together on my Access Port so that I can finish my break-in. Once I have around 1500 miles on the car (sitting at ~700) I will have the same guy come back to my house to finish up my pump gas map. Basically, I only want a quick 93oct pump gas road tune that would allow the car to be run at WOT to 7000 RPM on wastegate boost. There's no power goal for that map, just a well running car that is very very safe. After that I plan on getting the car dyno tuned on E85 and then the game is on!