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6 minute read
90+ 300ZX MANUALTRANSMISSION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
Disclaimer
This article uses the work of Greg from the TTZD (Twin Turbo Zs of Dallas), published in the TwinTurbo.NET FAQ on replacing shifter bushings. If you are a serious Z owner, you should DEFINITELY start using TwinTurbo.NET - it's absolutely the SINGLE BEST source of all information about the 300ZX!
Preparation
1.There are two cosmetic clips sitting on the top of each side of the upper vents. Using a small flat-blade screwdriver, remove these clips to expose the bolts beneath and then remove the bolts.
2. Underneath the two vents and above the stereo space is a long flat cosmetic cover that is held in place by two clips behind it. Again, use a small flat-blade screwdriver to pinch the clips and remove the cover. Be VERY careful not to break these clips. Unscrew the two bolts beneath this cover.
3. Remove the vent/stereo fascia. At this point, either disconnect all cables running to the fixed components (alarm LED, clock, and CD player in our case) so the entire fascia can be moved out of the way, or (what we do) simply move the console up so that the back of the stereo rests in the vent area, which basically gets it out of the way.
4. Remove the shifter knob. This sounds easy, but if the knob has never been removed it may be a challenge. The factory puts LOCKTITE on the threads of the shifter, which practically welds it on. We suggest wrapping a towel around the shift knob several times to protect the leather, then use a long pipe wrench or large vise-grips to remove it.
5. Remove the two screws that are exposed which fasten the top of the plastic console trim to the dash (picture above). Pull out the ashtray and remove the bolt underneath it. This frees up the trim piece. Remove the connections to the lighter, ashtray light, and mirror/shocks/mirror defrost cluster, and place the trim piece out of the way.
6. Remove the two screws holding the front (sides) of the utility tray (rear console) to the front console (picture above). These are pictured just below the button of the emergency brake (driver side of trim) and just in front of the base of the emergency brake (passenger side of trim). Open the utility tray, and use a flat-blade screwdriver to pull up the front (largest) felt covering to expose three bolts. Remove these bolts.
7. Unsnap the emergency brake boot, remove the utility tray, and place out of the way.
NOTE: If the emergency brake is loose, i.e. pulls all the way up easily, now is the time to tighten it up. There is a nut at the base of the brake that can easily be tightened down while it is exposed. Before you do that, you should tighten the brake shoes though. Refer to http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/prknbrake.html for details on doing that. In most cases the shoes are the culprit for loose e-brake and tightening the nut isn't even needed.
Installation of the new boots
That's pretty obvious now We hope. Flip the trim pieces over, remove the bolts and metal plates holding the old boots in place and put the new ones in. It's not a bad idea to apply a film of leather conditioner on the boots before you put them on. It's an even better idea to do it every once in a while to keep them in good shape.
Our boots don't come with mounting slits but they do have the mounting holes. Supposedly, although we haven't been able to verify this, there might be variations in the layout of the slits. Therefore we had to leave it up to you to make them fit your holding plate.
We suggest using a very sharp knife to make the slits. Just make sure it's a really sharp one and be careful and you'll be fine. Use your old boots as templates for where to put the slits on the new boots.
As for the plastic ring on top of the shifter boot, you need to put the new boot on exactly the same way, do not pull the boot too high though - only the little strips should be wrapped around the ring, like the old boot had it.
Re-assembly
This one is easy. Use reverse order and you're done. When you're tightening the shift knob you need to hold the boot tight with your other hand otherwise it will rotate slightly in turn with the knob. Hold the ring as low down the shaft as possible to minimize the area of leather that is wrinkled on top and in touch with the knob because it can make it wear out right there. Afterwards form the boots to your liking.
Useful tips
1. You have installed a product made out of genuine leather. As you know, to maintain a leather product in good condition, you should take care of it. We suggest occasionally (every 4-6 week for example) applying some leather conditioner/UV protector to keep your leather from drying up in the sun and cracking.
Redline Automotive Accessories Corp. will not be held liable for any labor, incidental or consequential damages of any kind. Proceed at your own risk.
2. If your car has more than 60k miles and the shifter bushings have never been done, you might have a lot of play in the shifter (both in neutral and in gear). If so, you should replace the shifter bushings. If you do it at the same time as the installation of the boots, you will save yourself some time on assembly and disassembly - therefore we strongly suggest it. The parts are cheap - approximately $2 per bushing and you need two of them. The shifter WILL feel GREAT afterwards and if you have problems with occasional gear grinds, it will help you a little also. Refer to http://www.ttzd.com/tech/bushingstech.html for details on this procedure.
