Project Fredybender V2.1 : NA with an attitude for the track by fredybender

4 minute(s) of a 234 minute read

Cable clutch is installed: 

02A cable clutch conversion is relatively easy. The actuator is still available from the dealer, I bought my engine mounts for the 02A for A1 chassis here:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/360347646776...witem=&vxp=mtr

Bought a 1992 CRX clutch cable, that you need to mod:

You just keep the steel ball on the actuator side and you have to widen the clevis that goes on the pedal: the pedal is 7mm wide steel, and the CRX clevis is about 5mm. Made myself a small bracket that goes on one of the transmission mount, and voila!!!

I also decided to use SS braided lines directly from the master, as I changed my master for one off a Corrado; the flares were not the best, and I was worried about more leaks, so I decided to change all the brake hoses. I will also change the rear set-yp to discs, and will use an n adjustable prop valve right next to my hand brake. I will only use one circuit for the rear brakes, and I will also change the hand brake to hydraulic; fab pics coming soon...

The head is on, but I ordered a 152 teeth timing belt from a 1.8T, but its too long, the tensioned, can do a full rotation, and will not have enough travel to take out the play. Rock Auto has the 151 teeth ABF belt (euro only) for about 20$ plus shipping.

I also decided to go a bit more on compression, I just hope I never over rev, because the expensive valve train will disintegrate! I should be around the 14.5-15:1 static ratio. I took off some lamination from the ABA head gasket. I also had to modify the HG because of the 84mm high compression pistons, coupled with the diesel crank: they really were "licking" each other, so I took a flap wheel, and opened up each of the layers, slowly & carefully , and deburred the, with the upmost attention. I think I spent about 3 hours to do this...

Keep you all posted...

12-29-11

Today I decided to start working with a bit more of a serious pace: 
I have everything to start the rear disc conversion (I thought the drums could handle it, and save myself a few $, but I should have done it with discs, from the start...) I have installed a Wilwood lever type prop valve for the rear brakes, next to the hand brake.

New discs, bearings, handbrake cables, pads, etc...

Today my objective was to install the head, and put my new 151 teeth ABF timing belt on...

So I put the head on and temporarily torques the head with only a few foot pounds to verify that the head gasket does not interfere with the pistons. Put on the belt, and proceeded to rotate the engine by hand from the crank bolt with the spark plugs removed from the head.

Not even after a full crank rotation, something was binding, so I decided to make some custom dowel pins, because of my lamination of 2 HG from an ABA: 
I am presently at 2.40mm HG thickness with a static compression ratio of 14.7:1

I doweled the first one with 3 different diameters, and the second with 2: 
The first one locates block, head gasket, and head within 0.002"
The second one is a interference fit, on the slot of the HG. Meaning it has the same diameter as the slot width. This means that I will never have to locate any delaminated gaskets ever again!

So proceeded with the dowel installation, after spending almost 2.5 hours machining within 0.0005" the little metal parts...

Installed the HG on the block, and I was very happy with the result; I decided to turn the crank to verify clearance with pistons 2 & 3, and the same binding occurred. I tried rotating the intermediate shaft pulley, and thats where I understood that the 1.8 PL intermediate shaft, even though fitted with the proper 2.0 9A oil pump gear, would not clear the diesel crank...

So tomorrow, I will need to lower the engine on the passenger side that means I need to take out the CV joints, etc...

Oh well, I also need to find a 9A intermediate shaft now