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8 minute read
How To: DIY TIC Clunk Killer (comfort)
Compliments of slyguySTI @ www.iwsti.com
7-5-2007
Ok Guys and girls, this install process took all of about an hour and a half or a lil bit more. what you will need is:
Rear Diff Bushings:
I used a 3/8" drive set
17mm Medium Depth socket
17mm Open ended Wrench
Swivel For socket (optional) i didnt need this
Torque Wrench (specs for all of these nuts and bolts are 51.6ft lbs)
couple of screwdrivers or Pry bars ( i prefer Prybars)
C-clamp
Hammer (optional) i didnt use this either
Tranny lift (to hold up the rear diff when the bolts are out, you will also need this to lower the diff down to get the outside bolts over the rear axles)
step one:
get the vehicle in the air some how, this is easiest if you have access to a garage with a lift, which i did that only costs about $2.00 an hour. once its on the lift go ahead and locate the area with the bolts: (make sure you unplug the rear diff sensor and ground)
Step Two:
Unbolt the two outer nuts, you will notice that the bolt goes in from the axle side (make sure to put them back the same way).
Step Three: ok now that the outside bolts are out, what you need to do it take the nuts that you have taken off from the outside and thread them over the two inner bolts that hold on the rear diff. What this does is make it able for you to take out the bolt that is directly screwed into the diff. Make sure you thread it all the way, and once they are tight, using your open ended wrench start to back off the inner nut, and it might turn a lil bit without the whole thing moving but thats ok, a few turns and the whole thing will break free. ( be carefull for the rear diff sensor)
Step Four:
Once you get the two studs holding the rear diff in place you should be able to let down your tranny stand a lil bit to move the axles out of the way and pull the studs out of the outside two bushings.
Step Five:
Slowly slid the plate out of the way of the rear diff, now comes the hard part, getting the bushings out. what i did, was clamp it to a table and then use the pry bars and put them in the little indents of the bushings, and push down, once you see it for yourself you'll know what to do, or at least figure it out.
these are what the bushings look like compared to stock:
and here is a closer shot of the new bushings:
Step Six:
Re-install the same way you took out. It will take a little wiggling to get the bar back in place considering the bushings are a lil bit bigger, but what i did that helped was spray them with white lithium grease and it helped a lil bit. make sure you use the tranny jack to align the bar with the rear diff, and remember if it dont fit dont force it, the rear diff is aluminum, it was pretty easy though just hold the stud up there and fiddle with the jack a lil bit to align it and it will work. then just tighten them both up then take off the outside nuts and put them back on the outside bolts and tighten them down to spec. (see above for specs). sorry i didnt have lots of pictures i realized it after i was halfway done that i was trying to write it up for other people to use. ( and remember plug in the rear diff sensor and ground)
and the finished product:
IF YOU GUYS HAVE ANY QUESTIONS FEEL FREE TO ASK OR PM ME AND I WILL BE GLAD TO HELP:
next up is the crossmember bushings;
Now for the Rear Cross member bushings:
what you will need is:
3/8" drive set
12mm Socket for outer two bolts (torque specs 24.3ft lbs)
17mm socket for inner two bolts (torque specs 73.8ft lbs)
white lithium grease (got mine from autozone in a spray can for about $4)
Torque wrench
well if you have this kit then your car should still be up on the lift from the rear diff bushings but if not, you really dont need a lift you can do this while your car is still on the ground if you want to.
Step one:
locate the area
Step two:
take out all three bolts, should look like this:
step Three:
After the plate and the bolts are out what you want to do is locate the top plate with the three fins on it, it should just come right out./ just grab it and lift up, (its on the top of the crossmember) should look like this:
find the lare diameter round bushing but the skinny one, (fat one is for the forester) damn i forgot to take pics of the bushings. and then locate the small diameter one.
Step four:
place the large diameter bushing on the part of the plate with the fins on it, make sure they are on the same side as the fins, this is the down side. Now place that piece back on top and adjust the bushing so it is centered.
Step Five:
place the small bushing in the bottom part. the stock bushing is sticking out and it has four big nubs of rubber sticking out on the bottom of the crossmember, shove that little one in between those nubs, then just put the plate back on and bolt it down to spec.
should look like this after your done:
Oh and just for reference, these are the four nubs i am talking about:
now that you are done, go out and drive and see if it made a difference.
I didnt get a chance to drive far, i sweated too much and had to go home and change first, then decided to write this up real quick.
GOOD LUCK GUYS, AND IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS SHOOT ME A PM AND ILL TRY TO HELP YOU OUT.
well so far i like them, they make a lil bit of noise while cruising but not much. i dont think i would want the race version, these bushing were pretty stiff i cant imagine the race ones.. you can definetly feel the rear end more, it def feels more stable, this is my only suspension mod and it really stiffened up the rear end. so it is def worth the money..