Susan by Tristared

4 minute(s) of a 45 minute read

I had thought about using SS Allen bolts for the exhaust manifold, however I seem to remember the left hand side is really quite difficult to get a firm grip on… I’ll have to see.

The anticipation to see the engine in place has now completely over ruled the requirement for high power output – I just want to drive the thing now! – I’m not going rallying, and the car only gets used a couple of times a month to travel 30 or so miles on country lanes. Hopefully they’ll be a bit more fun.

Yes I was a little a taken back by the welding job, apparently cast aluminium is pain to weld – it pops and throws material everywhere. Oh well, as long as it’s oil tight, I don’t mind.

Of course I now have to strip the engine bay for a repaint. A shiny silver block in a manky peeling black engine bay just isn’t going to be on.  

Any advice on chemical paint strippers would be greatly appreciated.

I'm pretty sure everyone here knows what goes on, but here are a couple of videos from the engine rebuild...

Milling the engine cover...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-CRQ0waOcBo&feature=youtu.be

Pistons doing their thing...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYNdUl4v1aI

10-2-2012

Here’s a brief look at what has been occupying my mind for the last couple of weeks.

I have for a long time been interested in perfecting an electric water pump conversion kit for the V4. On the grounds of tuning I have managed to kid myself that it is indeed necessary, but I’m fully aware that this is just another project, and I have to say it’s been fun.

I have tried to keep the diameters, and placement of the inlet/outlet pipes the same, which I have managed, albeit with a few parts that were designed for Koi carp pond keeping (they look robust enough). The coolant pipes will have to be shortened, whilst the return from the rad has been kept long so I gauge how much needs to come off, the connector allows it to fit perfecting inside the orignal U shaped pipe - once one end has been cut, obviously.

The pump is a Bosch design, that was used to keep a 3.0 V6 Vauxhall Omega cool. My only real concern is that the water will be pushed through the rad too quickly for it to dissipate it’s heat.

Research has shown that there are companies selling electronic devices that regulate the pump speed so you can actually present the engine temperature. No more thermostat?


…I think I’ll start off with a switch.


I'm current cutting out a mounting plate that mirrors the footprint of the water pump backing plate - out of stainless.

It's always a great Friday when something arrives in the post!

This is the Nardi boss adapter for mounting the wheel shown in earlier posts.

It's only taken 3 months to get the right one!