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4 minute(s) of a 612 minute read
6-9-2013
6-9-2013
^^^
BTW, please keep in mind that just because I labeled all those links in the car does not mean I recommend for everyone to go out and change them all to after-market components.
In fact, unless you are an absolute track junkie (you know who you are - no name, just initials: V.I.D 
) I recommend moderation in modding, because nearly 100% of the time, there always are trade-off's involved with modding, be it suspension, ECU/engine, exhaust, whatever. In other words, IMVHO:
a. Don't go out and buy everything that vendor X is offering and put it in your car. There has to be a goal and a reason for every component.
b. Do things in stages, so you could identify if any particular component is giving you trouble. Keep *all* stock components in case you have to go back to stock - they are expensive.
c. Remember the best change is "one component, one axle at a time," for the simple reason that you *have* to know cause-effect of each change.
Despite of my multi-page rambling, I in fact have done very little to my car: Bilstein Damptronic, GMG sway bar, and rear Tarett drop link. (Sharp eyed forum members will question me about the stiffer springs, but those don't count because I am nutty :-) and my area has many curvy mountain roads.)
I received frequent PM's about where to start with suspension modding, and the following has always been the answer: coilover, sway bar, alignment (more front neg. camber), drop link. That's it! Pure and simple and guarantee to turn our Turbo into an incomparable, world class daily driver, and to bring you to paradise :-).
6-14-2013
Repost from another thread, regarding the importance of wheel weight and the latest BBS ultimate wheels. Up until now, for those who could spend the bucks and like the style (I don't really like it), the lightest and arguably best wheel for the Turbo IMHO is the BSS Fi.
BBS now has another wheel called Ri, which amazingly enough, is even lighter than the Fi primarily because it uses a different aluminum alloy. A7000 aluminum for Ri versus A6000 alloy of the Fi.
Fi's manufacturer's data:
19x8.5 et53 - 7.4kg
19x11.0 et63 - 8.0kg
So there we have it, the newly crowned King of Porsche Turbo Wheels (if you like the style and could spare the bucks).
Ri-D
http://www.bbs-usa.com/road-wheels-d...m?CLID=87&WF=6
RI-D GT-R - One Piece Forged Aluminum Wheels. Produced in Japan by Washi Beam using a special 7000 series alloy that helps make this wheel as light and strong as possible. Covered by U.S. Pat. D606,921 and European OHIM Reg. No. 000 803 952
Fi
http://www.bbs-usa.com/road-wheels-d...m?CLID=55&WF=6
FI - BMW - One Piece Forged Aluminum Wheels designed and produced in the Motorsports department. The ultimate wheels for performance minded BMW owners. Covered by U.S. Pat. D606,921 and European OHIM Reg. No. 000 803 952
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Aluminium alloy - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
The International Alloy Designation System is the most widely accepted naming scheme for wrought alloys. Each alloy is given a four-digit number, where the first digit indicates the major alloying elements.
1000 series are essentially pure aluminium with a minimum 99% aluminium content by weight and can be....
2000 series are alloyed with copper, can be ...and are increasingly replaced by 7000 series in new designs.
3000 series are alloyed with manganese, and can be ...
4000 series are alloyed with silicon. They are also known as ....
5000 series are alloyed with magnesium.
6000 series are alloyed with magnesium and silicon, are easy to machine, and can be precipitation hardened, butnot to the high strengths that 2000 and 7000 can reach.
7000 series are alloyed with zinc, and can be precipitation hardened to the highest strengths of any aluminium alloy.
8000 series is a category mainly used for lithium alloys.