STS install pics... and stuff... by ZL1Killa

8 minute(s) of a 99 minute read

Well, after a year and a half from the original build coming back home to daddy, I finally had time after work to go and get tuned up & dyno.



More and more tweaking of the fuel yielded more and more power on the same boost same timing. We still have a little more work to do but it was WAY exceeding my expectations...


I'm losing about 4psi through all of my tubing and the intercooler. So I believe I'm going to go manual boost controller and set it and forget it. I may buy the GReddy controller but

6-19-2011

well if youtube would work with my file i guess everyone could enjoy the video... trying this again

Video link again...

SO... temperature outside was 91 degrees, intake temps were 110~120 and holding, boost was 13psi. Some fueling tweaks could still be done and it would easily make 700. We are keeping it safe and sound at 660 & 640 max now. Original goal was 550~580HP...so I reckon we are set.


It also made 500RWHP and 530RWTQ at 7.5psi

6-21-2011

Ok. Did some logging and my 11.7 LB spring (Wastegate) is giving me 9.3psi roughly. So I'm only losing ~2psi through my tubing and intercooler.

We then dyno'd at 12psi (184.6kpa) and made the 650 and 670.

6-28-2011

the problem now is, yes it is a rear mount and my goal was a fun street car. that is what I have. I had an interest in the rear mount setup and I have built it and love it with all the blood sweat and tears put into it.

this thing is a supra... low power down low, but when the rpms kick in and the turbo spools its on. Installing a boost controller (electronic) to help slightly and control my loss up high of ~2.5psi

It is going to be interesting trying the drag strip with sticky tires (MT Drag Radials 295/45 17") and no boost down low. I would love to swap in a built automatic transmission and tranny brake and see a 10.8 @ 13x mph run but this is my fun reliable street car that I can shift gears and enjoy driving and get 27 mpg on the highway.

I'm not expecting much at the drag strip, but we will see. heading to get some practice at Mooresville Drag strip Thursday (weather permitting) and then Zmax the following Wednesday. hopefully this spec stage 2 holds after a few passes and dumps through the gears.  

wish me luck....driver mod...lol.

7-10-2011

I honestly hope to head back to they dyno when it gets cooler (however still take & accept SAE standard numbers) but this will allow for the car to cool quicker, and do some further tweaking.

I will upload my times from the track tomorrow. best mph was 124 and best ET was 12.2 so far. If i can get my 60 foot down, but still have a little bit of tire spin to keep it from bogging down, I foresee 11.8 or so around 12x

9-29-2011

yeh well.... #7 let go. everything looked good after we got the motor apart, no detonation..fueling looked good...but

#7 piston at the valve relief towards the edge of the piston...there is a piece missing...part 1 of my problem. Going to take all the way apart to investigate how or why it happend...
Part #2 will be why cylinders 1,3,5 are low on compression...

hopefully will be coming apart all the way this weekend pistons out and all to see the rings and cylinder walls and pistons to see what might be the problem

should have pictures later by this weekend

10-1-2011

somethings not quite right....and pretty well explains #7 bad compression

UPDATE:

problem was not rings or pistons. At some point exceeded 15psi, and the last table value in the tune was not sufficient for anything above 15psi. I likely had my boost controller set too aggressive and it spiked above 15psi for a second or so causing a lean condition. Also didn't help running on 93 octane and 130+ intake temps

10-2-2011

no, what i think it was is it ran lean on a dragstrip pass for just a split second, and I got in the tune and added fuel and corrected it, flashed it and ran again...but I guess it was a minute too late...

that still doesn't explain cylinders 1 ,3 ,5 but I'm betting the rings broke. I would have to guess it was just running too lean/hot as if you look at the top of the pistons I would have expected more carbon build up, but maybe on a boosted car that doesn't happen as much due to the higher temperatures/pressures, it doesn't have time to build up or breaks off due to the heat/pressure...but for one side of the motor to be entirely good and the other bad... I don't know. My good ol' ls1 when we rebuilt it the first time and got it ready for boost, we honed it out 5 thousandths...problem is now will the block hold if we have to go another 5 thousandths.... or will I have to buy a new ls6 or even ls2 and go from there.....

my guys all say it looks good ( i mean the car ran great) no detonation, looks as if everything was running fine

10-4-2011

the wrong piston rings were used. we used a high tensile strength ductile iron ring...which in high boosted applications is not recommended.

a normal ductile iron ring is highly NOT recommended.

Most boosted cars are running some kind of steel ring.

11-3-2011

UPDATE:

problem was not rings or pistons. At some point exceeded 15psi, and the last table value in the tune was not sufficient for anything above 15psi. I likely had my boost controller set too aggressive and it spiked above 15psi for a second or so causing a lean condition. Also didn't help running on 93 octane and 130+ intake temps

11-27-2011

here is the kicker... 1 bar map actually maxes (will quit reading) prior to the max value in HPTuners... it will stop at something slightly above 101.325 (atmospheric) maybe somewhere around 103. the standard VE table goes to 105

anyway.. i witnessed a 2 bar map maxing out at 207kpa instead of 210 in hptuners that the table has. REason this happened is that my offset value was set too high in my boost controller and it went beyond my 15psi boost...lets say 16 instead of 15 when my hptuners tune was set for 15psi...so..... yeh.

what I should have done was tested my boost controller settings at like 10psi and seen how far it jumped then tweaked accordingly...

another option would be make the last table values in hptuners 25% or higher in value to keep fueling if it were to jump ever so slightly higher in boost.

another option is to forget the 2 bar map and go 3 bar and just tune for what I need and scale the rest.

REMINDER... just be careful. oops.

12-19-2011

uummm... I would suggest a 72mm ball bearing, billet wheel if you like.  

Here is mine:
TC76 Ball bearing, .81A/R T4 housing 3" DP flange

what block are you on Joshua?
If I could go and re-spec my turbo from turbonetics I would go with the full size 72mm ? T-72 with ball bearing and billet wheel.... I would go all out with it, lol.

I'm still debating taking mine and paying to upgrade to the full housing and billet wheel. As I'm going to be on a 370 motor now...I think my 76 is going to be perfect...especially if I upgrade to the full housing.

4-4-2012

4 beefy self tapping screws up above where the electrical connections are under the car in front of the rear end.... let me see if i have a picture. Home depot or lowes should have some rather beefy self tapping aluminum screws for ya that you can use.

Here ya go:

4-30-2012

Well a few updates. got my 6.0L motor all together and get the car running again. I have driven the car for break in and I'm hoping to hit the dyno soon.
Going to do a little street tuning to get the trims in line and AFR somewhat tweaked.

Also, swapped injectors for FIC 725 injectors (which actually flow 732 or 69.65 LB/Hr @ 43.5psi) and I must say the O-rings were of better quality and fit nice and snug when installed. On the ID injectors I had to replace 3 O-rings as they were leaking.  Bosch apparently on the rubber seal that goes down at the intake seat is larger on FIC725, however, I was told that this is a bosch piece so it varies. I liked the bigger seal.