LS1 Powered S14 by SicBastard

6 minute(s) of a 390 minute read

I stumbled accross these gussets the other day. I think my roll cage Neeeeds them...







available here

TMR Customs, Custom Fabrication Components for Offroad Vehicles

6/30/11

HioSSilver over on LS1tech has been running a 4th gen camaro with a multi-plate racing clutch + crate ls6 and doing 11.53 @ 122 1.90 60' (on 18's) with only 413 rwhp & 395 rwtq!! You'll notice his 60' is nothing special, I've seen plenty of Nissans do 1.60 60'. I think part of the explination for his awesome et per hp is due to the clutch's low MOI (moment of inertia).

Here's a pic of his Tilton 5.5" triple racing clutch bolted to a button plate that is sandwiched between a stock auto flexplate and the clutch.



I sent him a PM

"Been doing a bit more research on racing clutches in street cars, and was wondering if your 5.5 is still alive?"

"Yes it is. The first set of clutches (new) lasted 2.5 yrs. The next set lasted 1.5 yrs (used) and the set in it now is used 6mths. This is my dd. I really like this set-up. It cures all that clutch bullshit evryone goes through."

In a thread he posted about it he said his GF can even drive it!

And a pic of a Zoom flywheel for an LS1 (left) next to a stock iron LS1 flywheel (right), (they are the same size, both with 153 teeth for starter engagement). The zoom flywheel can accomidate upto a full 12" clutch disc



Here's a list of the MOI of different clutches

Tilton Clutch Assemblies MOI (lb-in^2)
Includes: Clutch cover with diaphragm spring, pressure plates and floater plate(s)
(add 66 MOI and 2.5# to include the button
(add 87 MOI and 3.4# to include a Sonic ultra-lightweight flexplate)

13 4.4â€Â Tilton carbon carbon 4 disc
21.4 5.5â€Â Tilton 1 disc cerametallic
29.4 5.5â€Â Tilton 2 disc sintered metallic (6#)
32.2 5.5â€Â Tilton 2 disc cerametallic
52.4 7.25â€Â Tilton 1 disc cerametallic
76.3 7.25â€Â Tilton 2 disc cerametallic
89.6 7.25â€Â Tilton 3 disc sintered metallic (10.2#)
99 8.5â€Â Tilton 1 disc cerametallic
100.2 7.25â€Â Tilton 3 disc cerametallic
158 8.5â€Â Tilton 2 disc cerametallic
337 9.0â€Â Mantic street dual sprung clutch (33.8#) cool set up!
>3200 11.5"? Stock LS2 flywheel and clutch (52#)

A good rule of thumb with racing clutches is that doubling a clutches weight will double its MOI, but doubling its diameter increase the MOI 4 times! Another rule of thumb is that increasing the clutches diameter 1.1" doubles the MOI.P

Here's PTTs set up. I was all excited because they were one of the first to introduce organic discs in race car, multi-plate sizes. But I spoke to their rep today who informed me that they don't reccomend their organic discs on any car over 400 hp regardless of how many discs. Bums me out, but maybe I'll call and talk to one of their engineers.

the "button" looks bigger in the pic than it actually is. It's inner 6 bolt holes line up with the flexplate's (flywheel for an automatic car)inner 6 bolt holes .



KH3049 goes for $812 + $263 for there small diameter through out bearing = $1075

7/9/11

Had a nice little trip last week!



At first I was considering getting a 32 gallon, cause some day I'd like to go E85 which suck a TON of fuel. But I was worried about being able to get it out from the top of trunk. ATL makes a "shoebox" style container that has no flanges, so it's easier to drop from the bottom. Turns out the 32 doesn't come with a shoe box lid. The 32 was going to be pretty damn tall (would have almost hit he trunk torsion springs) anyways. The aluminum containers are supposed to only weigh 15 lbs compared to about 25 lbs for the steel.

So I got the 22B!



The 22B even fits from the top with no problem. So the shoe box lid wasn't needed.



The Nascar surplus ATL lid I scored on ebay came with a huge 1.5" vent tube, which is absolutely unneccesary unless you plan on doing speed fueling refills. Otherwise a vent as small as AN-6 with a check ball (for roll-over) will sufice.

I read on more than one forum that fuel cells with very large vents can evaporate enough fuel to empty a small tank over a few months. The guys at ATL thought that was bull-shit. Either way I was reading up on fuel vents. The stock system routes a small hose (probably ~3/8") to the charcoal canister mounted just infront of the passenger side rear bumper. The idea is that all of the fuel fumes get trapped there while the car is not running. A second (equally small) hose connects the other side of the charcoal cannister to the intake manifold. When the car is started, all of the stored fuel vapor is sucked into the combustion chamber via running vacuum. The charcoal canister weighs almost nothing, and is supposed to last the life of the vehicle. I am considerng installing a -6 check valve back to the original charcoal canister. And placing a fuel level sender where the 1.5" vent is.

The orignal ATL fuel level sender is non-mechanical. It is called a capasitive sender. They can be made almost any length, and can be set u for any resistive range to match different stock gauges. However, they have to be calibrated to one specific fuel type. A gauge set up for gasoline, will not read correctly once you pour in E85. ATL's newer gauge type is about $40 more expansive, is mechanical, has a set ohm range, and reads accurately regardless of fuel type. The fuel level senders are about the same diameter flange as my 1.5" nascar vent but the level senders have a 5 bolt pattern compared to the vents 8 bolt.



Above is an example of a capacitance type level sender. it measures the resistance between the center probe and outer tube.