LS1 Powered S14 by SicBastard

11 minute(s) of a 390 minute read

I talked to a tech at ATL today. I've been trying to figure out an economical way to roll with a fuel cell rather than trying to source a stock fuel tank. I watched the show “A Thousand Ways to Dieâ€Â a couple weeks ago, where they showed a real gruesome video and interviewed a Modified racer who survived a fiery crash that set his fuel cell ablaze. He was all scarred in the face. Makes you stop and think about what the hell you’re doing.

Fuel cells are required in very few classes, and are usually only installed at the builders preference. If you are not using a stock tank, the rules get heavy fast. Basically, NASA is spoiling all the cheap fun. They are no longer issuing log books for cars with non FIA, FT3 approved fuel cells (presuming you’re not using the stock tank). 

The FIA has three main ratings with FT3, FT3.5, and FT5. Each has increasing tensile strength requirements for the bladder. The stronger bladders are recommended when higher speeds are expected. ATL managed to get a polypropalene (like the RCI, RJS, Jaz tanks) tank approved by the FIA for FT3. A lot of people seem to think that this is a great budget solution. But I think that many are overlooking that fact that in order for that tank (the ATL Saver Cell) to actually meet the letter of the law of FT3 it MUST be enclosed in a metal container; even though ATL will sell one without the metal container (they include directions on how to make your own).

Almost all of the bladders have a five year expiration date. And can be legally re-certified for an additional 2 years. The cost is $175, and ATL must receive the bladder before the end of the 5 years. There is a test strip that is within the bladder that they remove and retest for tensile strength. But, it seems that these rules are very poorly enforced by both NASA and the SCCA.

Ebay always seems to have tons of really cool looking cool looking check-ball valve lids. But it turns out that those shiney balls weigh 3 lbs each! Oh and in severe accidents the weight of the ball can mangle it’s pretty aluminum cage, and then they don’t seal! So Nascar is getting away from using them, and that’s why you can score them so easily. The tech at ATL said that they have come up with a new paddle valve that works much better, and he recommended p# TF703 $340.40 (Remote-Fill lid, Off-Set Paddle Valve) for my project. Though, the paddle valves can be had separately $76, and I might be better off to just retrofit one to an e-bay, surplus Nascar lid. 

I cut out the floor of the trunk. The frame rails pinch in near the rear sub-frame, and at the front of where the trunk floor used to be it’s only ~35â€Â wide. The bottom of the trunk is ~19 front to rear. Because of this I like the dimensions of ATL’s 22 gallon (85L) “Câ€Â tank. For reference: the 1995 s14 tank holds 17.17 gal (65L). I would go smaller, just to get the tank further away from the rear corners (crash zones). But I’m still day dreaming of running alcohol someday, and the extra volume would be nice.

I already have a new in-tank Walbro 341 fuel pump, and have decided against an external surge tank. ATL makes an internal sump for $190 with 3 trap doors , that eliminates the need for a second fuel pump, a second tank , and another set of lines and fittings. 

Below is a list of current costs of the 22 gallon cells I’ve been looking into. (smaller cells are slightly cheaper)

FUEL SAFE NEW

$284

SC122A SPORTSMAN STEEL CAN 34" x 18" x 9.5"

$424

ac122a-sb race safe al can 34" x 18" x 9.5"

$437

RS122A race safe hard plastic like enduro but with nice fill plate

$555

race safe cell with steel cont

$496

enduro core = assemble req. with top, no can

33.625" x 17.500" x 9.063"

$736

ED122A enduro complete 20Gauge steel (nascar's are 18)

$416

RB322A enduor replacement bladder

$1050

SM122A sportsman soft complete

$686

RB222A sportsman bladder

$1354

PC122A procell complete

$860

procell blader

ATL NEW

$382

aluminum can 15 lbs

$318

STEEL CAN 25 lbs 34.00 x 17.50 x 9.50

$1090

SUPER CELL, soft rubber and FT3+, no alcohol

$790

22g sports cell, 43lbs, hard plastic with steel can FT3+

$501

SAVER CELL, 22G SA122C 22LBS, 33.18 X 17.06 X 9.25

$732

super cell bladder

$452

saver bladder only

$1,100 

BANTAM is kevlar and FT5+ bladder (only 3 lbs!)

EBAY

$515

18G NASCAR EXPIRES LATE 2011 - 33" X 17" X 8", no lid

$850

expiration 03/10, 3 DOOR SUMP, 22G, NASCAR, KEVLAR, remote lid

$650

expired, 3 door sump, 22 G nascar, remote lid included 33" wide x 9.25" tall x 17 deep

$500+

mustang 16g Aluminum (not FIA)

“I've been trying to figure out an economical way to roll with a fuel cell rather than trying to source a stock fuel tank.â€Â

…FAIL

8/18/09

I spent all day running down parts and installing a new fuel pressure regulator in the miata. I started to feel comfortable street tuning the upper rpm ranges of the miata and I was leaning out a tad (11.5 AFR). I kept trying to increase the fuel until I noticed my duty cycle was well over 100%. After a little research it also turns out that the stock miata FPR is only maintains a 1:1 boost reference to about 15 psi. And with my new pulley I've already seen 16.8 psi out of my whipple! That's a supercharger, and that's at the manifold, after the IC!!!

I had to use a SARD adapter and 90 degree fitting to get my VISHNU dual feed fuel rail to dump into a -6 line. The 90 fitting was $34 for -6. Really? Fuck SARD. Oh and the adapter had the holes drilled a full half inch too close together. I had to notch the shit out of it.

I'll be on my way back to Jersey to hit up my old shop TTP for dyno tuning and a little schooling on my AEM EMS by the owner/tuner Matt Sorian. Check 'em out they're always building something bitchin.

TT Performance Parts Inc - Where Shopping Is At The Speed You Want

I'll post the miata dyno sheet tomarrow, presuming I don't blow it up!

I've been trying to sign up for the Oct 9th Watkins Glen Last Chance Drivers School hosted by the NE SCCA. But none of the links are up for signing up. Is it normal for the sign ups to only be available near the events?

8/31/09

Dyno Session for the miata at TTP didn't work out. I got bumped by a paying costumer's problem child twin turbo mustang. It was cool watching Matt tune in another 200+ hp though. It was making well over 700hp by the time I left. While I was there though I installed a new walbro 255 to replace the 190hp. FYI a 190hp is NOT ok at 300 crank hp in a supercharged application. Now I'm debating even using a walbro at all for the LS7. Corky Bell told me to stay away from the walbro and go bosch or pierburg. I don't think you can score the bosch for less than 200, and I'm still hunting for a good place/price to get a pierburg. 

I also just scored a nice used ATL fuel cell on ebay. Should be here in a week or two. It's p# SU122E which is a soft rubber bladder 22g tank 33"x17"x9". I'm thinking about using 1" square tubing to mount it. Anybody know anything about mounting fuel cells? Any circle track regulations that might be a good guidline etc? Can it be mounted leaning forward, or would it be much smatter to mount it flat with the pick ups in the back. I think it has a pick up in both back corners, right now, but I havn't ruled out putting a sump in the front middle.

The Fuel cell has an expiration date of March 2013. I'm going to feel like a jack ass if this car isn't running by then.

10/7/09

I just got a refund from ebay for my fuel cell. And I had to get my credit card to refund me for a largus front sway bar after I tried to buy one from

streamlineparts.net

That never showed up either. I also ordered an air nibbler, to make an aluminum radiator shroud, from harbor frieght. It took them 5 days before they even processed my order and another 6 to show up. It sticks about every 12 inches, but it got the job done. Now I'm on the hunt for a rivnut tool to attach the fans and shroud them selves. If you don't know what a rivnut is you should google it, pretty cool. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SN7w_...layer_embedded

A little nonsense: I think I'm going to need a license plate that reads "RB70SE"

10/23/09

Bunch of little stuff lately. I've been trying to do projects that don't cost any cash, but then my argon/CO2 tank went dry and I spent $40 bucks on bolts a bit more on cut off wheels and a nibbler. Later C note...

It's crazy how many hours these little projects suck up!

I'm using the same .75" willwood master as everybody else, but I lost the nissans original so I couldn't swap over the original clevis. I fabed up my own clevis by welding steel stap to two sides of a coupling nut. The clutch pedal has a very strange size hole for the original clevis, its close to 9mm or 11/32". I didn't want to just drill it out because it has a thin steel bearing type insert. So I turned my drill press into a make shift lathe and filed down a shaft bolt. Turned out great.

I don't think that these plates are really necessary, but I made one anyway.

On one of the silviav8 forums I saw that some guy manufactured a bunch of plates like this but with studs to make this a true bolt on affair. But the fire wall is doubled at the MC and the force is pushing towards the firewall so I don't think that the plate is necessary. It did make a nice template for drilling holes though. On the inside of the fire wall I welded square bolts for the willwood directly to the firewall, so that I don't need a second person to tighten the nuts/bolts from the engine compartment.

a little shroud work

Stillllllll working on my crazy ramp/flat floor seat mount platforms

I've agonized over tearing out the sunroof since I bought the car. No going back now! I'm going to see if I can't talk my uncle in Florida into pulling a mold off this thing and making a couple out of carbon fiber. Mike at cognition made one for his time attack S14, but then the mold broke when he pulled the first piece 

My Weights and Measures Division, NIST calibrated harbor frieght scale said 25lbs... At least! I'm glad it's gone, even if it is one more thing to do. 25 lbs feels heavier than it sounds if that makes any sense.