Supercharged K20a2 Vtec - Race Spec by cptkirk

5 minute(s) of a 377 minute read

Some Interior Pictures

THESE BAD BOYS JUST ARRIVED





No more harness digging into the neck, giving me hickies......

Supercharged Badge

So here is the inspiration for the badge, followed by a close up of the badge on the boot. Another great thing about having CAD skills, drew up the lettering sent off a dxf file and got the badge back laser cut in 3mm stainless steel.


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6-22-2010

Update:

Car is away having a full 4 wheel laser align and corner weights done, dropped off yesterday, collect friday.

Made camera mount last week and am in the middle of making a remote on/off for the video camera using a small 12V solenoid and some ingenuity as the camera is too far back to be able to touch. Videos coming soon - watch this space.

6-30-2010

Idle Control Valve:

I took the car for run on Sunday, when the footy was on - as not a footy fan, figured the roads might be quiet - wrong!!

Anyhoo, got back near to home and the engine starts hunting through the revs, from 1->4k, constantly revving up and down. Last night I stripped the bulkheads off and found the Idle Air Control Valve to be hanging on by one bolt and about to fall off all together. I fortuntately had a long M3 bolt in the garage so was able to replace the lost bolt, and this time loctited those barstewards in place, feck knows why they werent tight and loctited in the first place!?!

I guess I am just getting this experience out there incase people have a similar problem.

I will bring you the suspension geometry saga later.......

Suspension Geometry:

I am baffeld as to how far out this was considering it was supposed to have been setup at Zcars before I got the car. Note I have never taken any of the front suspension apart and when taking the rear apart was aaaanaly precise as to what went where when putting it back together as theres so many washers in there you need to have your wits about you. Plus even after settling it shouldnt be that far out.

So figure this out:

Front

Camber N/S 0.6 O/S 0.7
Toe N/S 10mm out O/S 4mm out

Rear

Camber N/S 2.2 O/S 2.5
Toe N/S 7mm in O/S 1mm out

what the hell???

I can tell you exactly how bad it was as it had worn a set of fronts down to the legal limit within 200miles.

It is safe to say that thanks to Tony at Redesign Racing near Brands Hatch that the car is now setup properly and feels like a different motor. I hasten to add that two new front tyres (R888's) and the setup was cheaper than just getting the setup done at Z's - yes that's right I am not a happy bunny about it.........

Edited because I got the name of the Company wrong - duh!

7-2-2010

Good question.

As for Zcars recommendations I can only go on what Chris had posted on here >>Click me for the original post<<:

the settings we now use after tweeking for several years are as follows
front half a degree negative camber each side
toe 1 mm each side
caster 3.5 degrees
rear 1.5 degrees negative camber
1.5 mm toe in each side


I will have to get back to you with my setting as they are written down at home and I am currently at work.

As for the sidewall, yer you get a bit of roll especially in the slower corners but it aint too bad, I will wait until I can run it with some 225/45's before I make a final judgement.

7-6-2010

So I have now ordered the correct spec bolts and will fit them also. I am starting to get a bit fed up with having to fix things that shouldnt be going wrong so early into the life of the car and simple things like using the wrong grade bolts for steering arms just isnt good. I appreciate that there will be teething problems and fully expected that but wheel bearings going so early - errr I dont think so......

Pictures:

On the subject of suspension settings, I found this the other day, I received it 05-May-09 so might be out of date in terms of tweeking/development:

mini_settings_2.rtf