Monty the Rwd R1 engined tarmac eating Minus by Alburglar

2 minute(s) of a 160 minute read

The gripper diffs that z's supply are made by D R Engineering, I checked them out and they have a fantastic reputation for making bullet proof diffs for any application you ask them. They work out cheaper through z's I think because they buy 5 or 10 at a time. Z's have to machine your drive shafts to suit it too.

The diff wasn't too taxing to remove, but it is a bit awkward. I removed the offside trailing arm in order to pop the drive shaft out, but you coould try removing the inside bolt and loosening the outside bolt enough to swing the arm away. This might give enough clearance to get the shaft out the hub without removing the whole arm. You can then support the diff (in my case with my knees and some bubble wrap on removal and then I used a ratchet strap either side of the sporcket and over the top roll cage bar to put it back on) and undo the four carrier bolts. When replacing the diff be sure to put the chain on the sprocket BEFORE you bolt it all back together. The bearing carriers are easily removed with a couple of taps from a soft faced mallet.

8-8-2007

I have resin'd a few layers over the centre section of the cross member as it was pulling in when bolting in my gear linkage bracket.

I have finished the restoration of the front floor pans and layed some grp over the painted steel. I then sanded everything, I've just got a few awkward bits around the pedal box to finish ready for paint.

8-13-2007

Front floor is painted, now to start bolting it all back together.

8-21-20