2000 Disco II Major Rebuild/Overhaul by RSPTex

6 minute(s) of a 50 minute read

So a few ways we could solve this is to do a few tests:

1. Measure the locations and depths of the holes cut in our different cranks and post them here.
2. Have the cranks tested for balancing. I'm already going to be getting a 4.6 crank and have a 4.0 crank, so I could have my machinist test that. I don't know what it would cost, but I'll check.
3. Give LR a holler and see if we can talk to one of their engineers.  

Which are you up for? I'm good for all/any of the options. I want some definitive answers on this one, personally. I know other people have swapped 4.0s for 4.6 cranks and con rods, so I know it's possible, but it would be nice to know it's not going to die in a few months/years.

7-29-2014

Update:

I have pulled the driveshafts and transmission and transfer case!
My wife standing proudly in front of it:

The drive shafts have been rebuilt before, but when I have new u-joints anyway, and I don't know how long ago they were rebuilt, I'll just rebuild them again. Not a big deal. The bolts/nuts weren't as bad to get off as the exhaust. I thought they would be. Maybe it was the 3 weeks of PB blasting that did it. I really don't like how all of the nuts are rounded by design for half of their width. Some were destroyed with vise grips, and all will be replaced by some happy grade 8 nuts.  

The transmission/transfer case wasn't horrible to get out, but I certainly didn't have the best lifting equipment. I am making a mount for them out of 2x4's to go on the motorcycle lift. It couldn't quite get all the way up there to hold it, so I had to get a bit creative by stacking 2x4s and using multiple jacks and jack stands. I don't recommend that to anyone. really. At all.  

The tunnel is pretty wide open, though. And the engine bay is empty of almost anything that could get hurt by some pressure washing. I'll Cover all the things that are open or have open lines. I'm replacing all the branke lines and the fluid, so I'm not too concerned there, but still not great to get water in the pumps and what not.

I pulled my torque converter and compared it to throne I bought from an 03 D2. Identical in dimensions. Mine wasn't stock. I knew because it said BMW 37 on it.  



It was in good condition, and I never had issues with it, but I bought the replacement before looking to see if mine was stock. I just assumed it was. I now have an extra torque converter. Rickety Tick has first dibs, but PM me if you're interested.

A few concerns I have when I pulled the transmission/t-case and drive shafts:
-Missing bolts/nuts between transmission and transfer case
-2 studs and nuts were used on the bottom cover of the t-case in place of the bolts.
-How does anyone get to the centering ball kit on the read diff to replace it? (as directed in Disco Mike's Major service)

Here's a question for people familiar with the 4.0 to 4.6 conversion:
-Are there any issues using a ZF4hp22 transmission with a 4.6 engine? RAVE mentions the transmission was upgraded to the ZF4hp24 to handle the additional torque. I am about to tear my 22 down and do a rebuild with 24 parts. Any issues anyone could see there?

Another one about the transfer case:
-While having it out, are there any parts on/in the transfer case that wear heavily or should be replaced as the "while I'm in there" mentality prevails? I am replacing the gaskets, but aside from that, I don't know.

I've ordered new Power Stop brake pads and Raybestos rotors. I already have excellent access to one side of the brakes and suspension, so I'll replace those and the brake lines this week, if I can. The other side will be just as easy. I'll just need to pull those wheels off.

When removing the inside-cab transmission/t-case stuff, I realized how much I hate the cig adapter, so I'm replacing it and the ashtray in the back with AC120 and USB outlets. I already have all of the stuff to do it at work. I just need to wire it up and put the wiring through the firewall to the battery and to a different aux fuse.  

I’m headed now to Fastenal to get replacement nuts/bolts for all the ugly stuff that I’ve pulled for the last month. I’d use the replacement rover parts, but I’d rather pay .50/piece for the bolts and have allen keyed fasteners than 5/piece for Philips head. I’ll get spec on all of it for everyone today and post up everything I find so we can all have cheap and effective replacement fasteners!

Does anyone else have/had a room or garage that looks like this: