Louie4's YJ by Louie4

9 minute(s) of a 411 minute read

Finally getting the proper stub shafts in. I had a time with the u-joints.

4-28-2020

Here is my game changer. I went on to OfferUp to look for a work bench after asking a buddy how he built his. He said he bought it from a guy and chopped it down to make it shorter. I found this for $30 with a Craftsman vise. Then ran and got it.

5-8-2020

Jeep died last night when leaving the grocery store. Pulled it home with the Gladiator and my tow bar which is really coming in handy.

Checked it today and no spark from the distributor. Spark from the coil but none from the distributor. So I pulled the coil and checked resistance. Secondary was 9.67 kilo-ohms. Which I think is too low. Should be over 11. Anyway, I tested the CPS and camshaft position sensor and they all checked out. Bought a new coil from Napa and checked the resistance it was about the same so I was getting bummed out.

I installed the Napa one and it fired right up. I'm not really sure what to make of it. The one that was bad was replaced 6 years ago from Autozone. I may need to check/replace my plug wires. They are the second set I've put on the jeep since I've owned it. The other set was the OEM ones. New radiator coming Tuesday.

The Napa coil has a brass terminal which at least seems better. Old one

5-13-2020

Just got my new radiator. It's legit. Three rows, brass, and it has welded nuts ready for mounting. I really hope it helps. After trying out a Napa fan clutch, I've determined that it's not as effective as my OEM and I have decided to keep the OEM on.

I've also noticed some driveline movement. I really need to finish my anti wrap bar. My pinion is a degree or two higher than the driveshaft so I have ordered 2 degree steel ships from WFO. I think my springs have settled and wrapped some.

I also plan to modify my isolator stud. It's sitting on the new skid and compressing it. I think there should be a gap.

The u-joint on the axle side of the rear driveshaft has a little play in it, probably from axle wrap. So I'll change it out with a Spicer.

5-15-2020

Installed the radiator. While burping the cooling system I heard a chirping sound. I figured out it was from the upper idler pulley. I've decided to replace both and keep the other as a spare.

5-16-2020

I left out the isolator stud. So far it's drives just fine. I'll probably not reinstall.

All I'm waiting for now are some 2 degree shims so I can correct my pinion angle.

I still need to put my shortened front driveshaft in. I still have my stock one installed. I also need to replace the rear u-joint on my driveshaft. Slight amount of movement.

I also put two new idler pulleys in. One was chirping and worn.

5-17-2020

Actually the new radiator was a little heavier. Both are brass but the CSF is a three row versus the OEM two row.

I think I've been through 4 or 5 pulleys in 20 years. Maybe more. The ones I got were the more expensive ones from Autozone. Probably should get a better brand since the ones I replaced were Autozone ones.

Got my WFO shims and pins. Good quality:

5-21-2020

I tried to install my 2 degree shims this afternoon but when I saw my u-bolts and put a wrench on them... I decided to just order more and cut the old off. The nuts were rusted and not budging.

5-22-2020

So I bought a set of deep 1/2" drive impact sockets with my store credit at Harbor Freight (for the jack stands). I will probably wait until Ruff Stuff does their Father's Day sale and buy a new set.

Aside from the news about Mr. B, I'm bummed because my jeep crested over 210 during a short (maybe mile or two) drive down the interstate. I just put the new CSF three row radiator in hoping to resolve my overheating issue at speeds but I fear it's more complicated than new cooling parts.

7-13-2020

I will start back on my dedicated thread to stop feeding the black hole that is my overheating thread. I will recap as best as I could.

So, to pick up where I left off. I ordered U-bolts from Ruff Stuff during the July 4th holiday savings %17.76 percent. At some point, I'll cut my old u-bolts and install my WFO 2 degree shims to move the pinion nose down a bit.

As everyone knows, I've been chasing an overheating issue with my Jeep and I've become the definition of "throwing parts at it". Which is not very efficient and in my efforts to save a nickel, I spent a small fortune. Here is a recap of what has been done/replaced and what the path forward it.

What I did in 2019 Summer
-Removed my Autozone single core radiator and swapped in an all brass 2 row OEM radiator from an '87 or '89 YJ - (Did not solve problem)
-Replaced radiator caps (did not solve problem)
-Removed winch for air flow (did not solve problem)

What I did in 2020 Summer
-Replaced radiator with CSF three row brass for big bucks (did not solve my problem). I have seen a number of threads claiming these were not very good at high speeds in hot climates. Mainly due to efficiency and number of smaller rows.
-Replaced (old) OEM fan clutch because thermal spring did not operate. Bought Napa one (did not solve my issue)
-Flushed engine twice with Thermocure and removed garbage (did not solve my problem)
-Replaced OEM thermostat with 180F Stant Superstat (did not solve my problem)
-Replaced 180F Stant t-stat with 195 Stant t-stat (did not solve my problem)
-Replaced Napa fan clutch with OEM from Collins Bros (did not solve my problem)
-Removed winch for air flow (did not solve my problem)
-Replaced temp sensor in back of head with OEM (did not solve my problem)
-Replaced Napa waterpump with Flow Kooler pump (did not solve my problem at hwy speeds)
-Bought a engine block tester and I have never been able to confirm exhaust gases are in the coolant.
-All coolant is now Zerex G05 HOAT type 60/40 distilled water to coolant

Here are my next steps.

-I have sourced an OEM water pump from a dealer in North Carolina. Man is it is pricey but I keep seeing the recommendations being to go back to OEM. So I am. Should be here in 10 days.
-I sadly sold my Autozone single row radiator that was working fine back east but never tried it again with all my other modifications/replacements. I found one on Offerup for $25 I want to experiment with. If it goes well, I will source and OEM for a TJ wince the YJ is discontinued.

On a side note, I called Ron Davis who is local to me (jsawduste recommended). His first suggestion was go to back to all OEM (thermostat, pump, fan/clutch, sensor) and see how it works for my radiator I have. I don't think he was a fan of CSF and rightfully so since he knows what works and what doesn't here in the Southwest heat. His radiator is the Final Solution as they say but at a price tag of $775 plus tax...its steep but if I spent that on my system the first time...it may have been the cheaper option.

7-23-2020

I need to focus on my build thread versus my overheating thread.

I installed a new Spectra radiator from Autozone. A lifetime warranty replacement. I think it's my 4th one in the last 10-11 years. I wanted to try it out since it was no cost to me. It's an OEM style with a 1" or larger single row core.

7-24-2020

So far, the spectra is working well. Highway driving and A/C it never went past the 0 on 210.