Louie4's YJ by Louie4

9 minute(s) of a 411 minute read

Looks like I haven't learned much from my past experiences.

I checked on my order for the spring pictured above. It was coming FedEx and they said it was going to be delivered February 15. I checked that day and it said it was delayed to February 18th. Well, this weekend was looking for working on the jeep so I said screw it. I called the dealer and they had one for $4.75 (tax included). I went by and got it, no problem. I came home and my wife and I took the dog for a walk and checked the mail as we always do. It turns out I got a package from Quadratec...which contained my spring...ugh. Apparently, FedEx got USPS to ship it. So now I have an extra.

The good news is I got the transmission installed as well as the t-case. Filled both up with fluid and reconnected the shifters, plugs etc. I also may have forgotten to mention I jerked the wiring out of the reverse light switch when I took the transmission out so I had to fork out the $56 for a new one at Autozone. I also bought a master/hose/slave cylinder on eBay for under $25 shipped...well it's crap. So now I just ordered a new master/slave/hose kit from Summit Racing for $102 shipped.

So for now I've welded the Flowmaster in and need to finish bolting all the exhaust up and I'm now waiting on the master/hose/slave cylinder kit to finish everything up.

Some pics.

2-25-2014

Thanks! I hope the cooling fan works just as well for you as it has for me.

I got back out to the garage last night and made some more progress. I bolted the hanger for the tailpipe to the frame, I put a ratchet strap around the front of the cat and the back of the Flowmaster so I could pull the pipes together and put a clamp on it. The exhaust seems pretty solid now and dumps out the back instead of on the 8.8 axle tube.

I also put in my clutch/hose/slave cylinder pre-bled kit. It worked flawlessly. I can't wait to shift on the road. I also put it in gear and shifted through the 4WD modes and true neutral is good to go.

I got over zealous though and wanted to check out the spring bushings. I found they are all crap and the metal sleeves were rusted and pitted. I have a few spare bushings but they were loose in the spring eyes and seemed pretty cheap. I will order some more here shortly. I also took out my center supports on my booms. I replaced the front ones with a SS bolt and nut on each plate to keep the shackle from inverting. Here is a crappy pic of the spring bushings and sleeve.

2-26-2014

Got a Daystar kit off Amazon for (2) springs for $36. I plan on doing the back and the front at a later date.

3-1-2014

Got this jewel plumbed in today. Figured I would since I'm still waiting on the spring bushings.

I'm going to Raleigh tomorrow for a job interview so wish me luck!

3-7-2014

Got the jeep rolling last night. The speedo is not working but I think it's how I clocked it. Hopefully a simple fix.

Then I had a problem this morning. I was on my way to work and the engine sputtered and gave out. I was able to determine I was not getting spark. There is no spark from the coil which tells me it is the coil or the CPS.

I did clean the CPS while it was down and I was swapping bellhousings.

3-8-2014

I think I found my problem. I tested the coil and it was not in either range for the primary and secondary resistance and it has cracks in the casing. I guess after 310K miles its due.

Here are the values I got:

Primary: 1.6 ohms
Secondary: 9.32 kilo ohms.

My Haynes manual resistance values:

Diamond - Primary: 0.97 - 1.18 ohms, Secondary: 11.3 - 15.3 kilo ohms
Toyodenso - Primary: 0.95 - 1.20 ohms, Secondary 11.3 - 13.3 kilo ohms.

3-16-2014

Thanks Matt. I'm hoping the house and garage (hopefully big garage) will be soon. It depend on if the relocation package will put us up temporarily so we can house hunt. If not, we'll rent for a year and save up a good down payment.

Well it was nice yesterday so I messed around with the jeep but nothing major. I decided to take out my Polk Audio front speakers because the front left always had a vibration that annoyed me plus the mounting was done poorly by Best Buy about 12 year ago. I've had these speakers a long time and they have served me very well.

The first thing I found wrong was the terminals. The non-metallic piece holding them up had broken on each side. So I cut a piece of plastic out of the JIF peanut butter lid as a backing plate and JB welded it all together.

I took both speakers out even though the front driver side was the one making the vibratory noises and when I put the pass. side in it sounded like crap. I took it out and found the cone had separated and it was the same for the drivers side.

At this point it should be time for new speakers which is most likely what I'll do. However, I don't have a paycheck yet and I need some tunes in the mean time. My problem is how to glue the cones back to the frame and hopefully get another few months out of them. I didn't want to spend any money so I grabbed a tube of RTV. I don't know if this will work but its better than nothing.

I'm going to install them today. The RTV should have cured by now.

3-16-2014

Well I jacked up my speakers on my own accord putting them in. I now know why the Best Buy guys didn't tighten the nuts holding them in too tight. I did and it pushed the tweeter and the back plate on the magnet came unglued. So no more bass. I guess I'll just need to get some more and install them properly. I already put a couple nuts on the studs in the firewall for spacers.

3-18-2014

Good. I hope to see some build thread updates.

Well I had a time with the spring hanger bolts on the frame. I wanted to change out the spring bushings and install new sleeves. As usual the bolt and sleeve were stuck together. Luckily I had a portable vise to press them out, just awkward due to the size. Some pics.

3-21-2014

Tunes.

3-22-2014

I looked over the speakers and determined I need some hardware. I went to Home Depot to get some wing nuts for the#10-24 studs that hold the speakers in place. With the new Polk speakers (and like the old ones) the tweeters protrude past the mating surface of the outer frame. If you don't use a spacer it will push the tweeter in and pop the back plate off the magnet, thus ruining the speakers.

So I actually found some 1/2" #10 aluminum spacers that worked great. I also put a washer in between so the spacer wouldn't go through the larger holes. Then I used wing nuts on the studs to hold it all down. Now I have speakers that are mounted solidly mounted to the dash. My previous speakers were not and it was something that always bothered me over the years.

I also like to reuse the magnets from old speakers. Here is what I picked up in my gravel driveway. I found more on the second go.