Scorch BUILD v2.0 by dascorcha21

7 minute(s) of a 137 minute read

Well CBI to the rescue once again. This is a perfect example of why he will always be #1 in MO to me. I had a mishap were I lost 1 arp washer so I couldn't finish any further until I had one. He went out of his way to make sure I had everything I needed to finish the install and keep the build moving.
Sir Bentley came out again with and we went right to work! Thanks mang!
With the heads bolted down I was able to finish the fuel lines and let me tell you everything is coming out perfect!







10rib! Laser aligned and everything looks good to go!







Just for you bent! MONEY SHOT lol





Tomorrow I will put the alt&ps belt on and get intercooler and all done! Should be starting up this month! Very excited!!!!! More updates to come stay tuned

3/6/12

getting really really close here...

putting some finishing touches on a couple of things.
i used an ls6 coolant cross-over tube in the rear of the heads instead of blocking it off..and T'd it together up front it cam out pretty nice and discreet.





then ccajun4real came to the rescue with his ported 90mm tb! def a nice piece.



started mocking up all the piping and intercooler in place and everything looks great!



big AC condensor







Got the intake manifold painted and on! Everything







3/17/12

Pretty Much done now.. 4 more items remaining..
1.Pushrods (need to measure them)
2.Pfadt Coilovers ( last update is that with good luck they will be ready by 3/23
3.Decided to go with FIC 2000cc dynamically flowed injectors (fuel injector connection)
4.New Rim and tire package (still deciding)

Finished up the my evac system which consisted of ¾ inch heater hose
Here is the basic layout of it.





-12an to hose barb the attach directly to my baffled valve covers



The finished product





These go all the way to the rear



Now I'm not sure how many people are aware of this but at the 10 rib level selections on belt lengths become slim.. as with my previous project we were forced to run a 51 belt which was truly a PITA to attempt to get on.. the next size up is a 53.5 which is way to long. After a short talk with Brett he informed me just to get a 12 rib belt which comes in a 52.5 length and cut to 2 ribs off it. WALAH! Perfect!



Went on without a hitch!



Now just as an fyi as I'm sure you haven't ran a 2.75 , 10 rib nor a 51 belt. It is my understanding that you want maximum belt wrap along with it being tight. Well with a 51 belt with this combo it is a bit on the short side as u experience when trying to put it on just as when trying to tighten it down. With the 51 belt on there you really can't tighten down the top idler to increase the belt wrap around the HU pulley because at that time the bottom tensioner is already pretty much at the 12 o-clock position. As you can see from the pictures below, once I tighten down the upper tensioner I'm getting full belt wrap on the HU pulley and the bottom tensioner ends up at a 12 o-clock position. If you look at the last pic you can see how open it is that it is very close to the water pump outlet (thermo housing) bolt. I hope this explains the situation better going from a 3.0 to a 2.75 doesn't really make a big difference belt wise it will work the same. The bottom tensioner takes up some of the slack and ends up at the same position. I forget the actual figure in diameter size that brett gave me between the 2 pulley sizes but its rather minute. Unless my theory is wrong about all of this, let me know your thoughts guys.







here is a shot of my other car with a 51" belt the top tensioner not tightened down and the bottom tensioner almost maxed out.



ideally the belt to have is a 52" for either pulley but the the HD green belts dont seem to really have alot of give after a while like the normal gate belts i used to use. the closest to that is a K140516HD in which you will have to cut off 4 ribs which is not a big deal at all.. If this one gives me any issues i will try that belt and that should fix any issues if any at all.