V3.2 build (F2 procharger , 427, etc. ) by 1dirtyz

13 minute(s) of a 341 minute read

got some things done

i pinned the crank , fixed the rear cover , and kinda cleaned the engine compartment ( ddidn't have a shovel big enough ), i also finished fabbing the blower brace:



i also figured out where i'll be running the -10 fuel line and how i'm going to route it . also found out that the magnafuel pump is bigger than i thought so i'll most likely be mounting it up in the area where the rear bumper once was. i'm just trying to figure if i can mount it in a way that it would not interfere with the chute mount i'm planning on getting later on. speaking of -10 hose i opened the box of 20 ft -10 hose i ordered a while back and somehow it got mislabled and had -8 hose in there)

now all i have to do is get the head gaskets and button this puppy up and i'm in bussiness

next on the list :

-get my intake from houston999 who is "testing" it on his camaro
-mount the pump
-route the lines from pump to front of car.
-remove old pumps and some of their lines .
-i "should" start finishing up the wiring inside the car ( ses light , alt light , and low oil pressure light - will do it as a shift light deal thingy)
-if i'm not lazy i might even weld up the travel limiters up front

12/31/2008

small update,
got the intake back and got the 160 lbs/hr injectors on there as well as the rails. i'm holding on plumbing the rails till i get an idea how everything will look after i nstall the alternator ( to see if it clears the inlet to the rails.)
i already routed the fuel line from rear to front, just need to put hose ends on it and fix it in place.

i removed the old pumps and fittings associated with them.

and off course no progress on the wiring or eht e welding of the limiters

the head gaskets should be here in a few days after that its only a matter of hours and the engine is in the car. they got delayed at ups due to the holidays.

1/20/2009

just my rotten luck ! i got the gasket in and i started to put the motor together, then i find out all the nuts for the smaller head studs are the wrong size !

so i call up texas speed and they get in contact with arp and get everything squared away , arp will send replacements, but due tot he fact that i'm in a hurry , texas speed sent me nuts from a package they have and will replace them with the ones arp is sending ,,, now thats service !


other than that , i routed the impedance converter harness , and the fuel system is all plumbed and finished up , i also mocked a junk engine in there to see how the intake and elbow will fit , and then proceeded to slice away at the cowl ( i got pics and will upload them soon ), now the edelbrock low profile elbow fits ( note : low , not ultra low )

i really don't know if i would be able to make it to round 3 or not , but i'll be trying ! i also would like to attend qatar's round 1 happening 1 week after bahrain.

next up on the list i guess is finishe up wiring stuff, travel limiter , and hopefully slap the engine in there and get her all buttoned up and broken in

1/26/2009

so the nuts are on the way , and i had a bit of progress
don't think i'll make it to round 3 , but 4 looks like a definate yes

here are some of the pics i promised :

50mm cog belt and tensioner on the car

you can see how much wider i can go ( i see a 70 mm belt in my future )




edelbrock elbow ( not the ultra low on , but the low one ):





how much it sticks out :




i also have the impedance converter all mounted up and wired, started on the pump wiring and it should be done today , as well as wiring the low oil warning light and the alternator light .
as soon as i get the nuts , i'll bolt the heads on ( and do the whole torque /loosen / retourque deal ), slap the headers on , and plug in all the sensors and hopefully fire her up !

then i have to weld those damn travel limiters ( this was supposed to be one of the first things i did on the car )

hoping to have her fired up some time in the next couple of days

1/31/2009

finally finished the heads , i retorqued the headstuds a few times. also bolted the valley cover finally , the low oil warning light sensor ,the intake manifold, and finished the driver side rockers.



i'm debating weather to run the ultra low elbow ( i think it will clear the stock hood with this manifold ) or go with the one you see in the pic

2/1/2009

well a minor setback but i think i goit it fixed : i installed the alternator , which is relocated to the front of the passenger head , and found out that the fuel feed line doesn't like where the alternator is

so to fix this i need a 180 -10 hose end , but untill i get it , i used a 90 deg hose end and a 90 deg fitting on the rail . good enough engineering at its best :p

i also finally buttoned up the rockers, covers, harness and impedance converter. but found out i have to enlarge a hole and tap it for the knock sensors. the old location had an issue with the headers

should have the thing running by Wednesday i hope

i'm also playing around with the idea of ditching the alternator and powersteering pump , and installing an electric water pump to clean up the engine compartment and free up some horsepower . i will need to add another battery in the rear to make this work .

2/8/2009

WOHOO! i fired her up last night ,,,, got 50 psi of oil pressure right away , which is good

had a few issues to tackle though, the car would not start with the injector driver connected , it had spark but no fuel ( could this be cause the battery was weak ). i had to connect the injectors directly to the stock harness and only then would it fire right up ( ran rich for the 3 seconds it did , but it ran )


i'll go back tonight and recheck the grounds for the converter box and finish wiring the low oil pressure light .

then its off to a buddies shop for reprogramming and tuning ( basically pillage azooz's red mustang tune ) .

i will be getting a new cowl hood , as i really feel bad cutting the vfn one i have now, and a local guy here makes cowl hoods to order relatively cheap.

i was thinking of something like this to clear the elbow and the charge pipe from the intercooler:



what do you guys think ??

well not all is well today ,,, i took the car to a friends shop for the tuning part, but we couldn't get the car to fire . it would start if we had the injector driver bypassed and the injectors connected directly to the harness, but when i connected the impedance converter box it would not , only an occasional pop from cylinder 5 .

i tried re grounding the harness and that didn't help , i tried a new relay and that didn't help either. i also went and used another AEM converter and nothing happened then, so i now have the box being faulty ruled out .

we also went as far as to pull the whole harness out and do a continuity test on all the wires, and they were all ok.

i don't know whats going on here ,,,, why is it not working ??

tomorow we'll get the harness from the red stang and give it a try , at least if that doesn't work we can rule out a bad harness.

2/14/2009

inally figured out what was wrong with the harness ; turnes out i reversed the polarity on the injector pigtails some time ago , which meant no signal to the injector driver .

any how , the car runs great now, i had to fix a leak at one of the tranny coolers , and the travel limiter is on the car now. we also set the pinion angle and weighed the car ,,,, which came as surprise to me cause it weighed in at 3200 lbs without me in it !!! ( still have stuff to replace in the car like chromoly cage and sfc, as well as ditching the p/s and water pump and alt.)

i also found out that the serpentine belt i have is a bit too long causing the tensioner to fully extend .

all that is left now is a few heat cycles, then change the oil , then maybe hit the dyno !

2/15/2009

anyhow, i did an oil and filter change for the car today and and let her idle again ( trying to get in a few heat cycles in the motor before beating on it.

well found out that we didn't fix the trans cooler leak , so the one on there is going off and a new one put in tomorow. another curious thing i noticed is that the headers started glowing red after 5 minutes of idle.... initially timing was set to 10 deg. , so we changed it to 30 and the problem still remained ( afr was at a steady 14.7:1 to 15:1) . so we tried changing the timing in other tables ( the car idles at 1100 rpm and has almost zero vaccume at idle ) and that seemed to help it a bit , we couldn't let it idle longer cause the puddle of trans fluid was getting to be a lake

what is a good number for idle timing do you think i should shoot for ? and do you think this is timing related?


another strange thing is that the car keeps seeing knock at idle ( regardless of the timing we had in it) , some where in the 2 to 4 deg. range.
it i most likely false knock , but is there a way to desensetize the knock sensors at idle or low rpm's and have them operate normaly at higher rpms?

so tomorow i'll slap in a new cooler, put on the intake tube , and if all goes well with the header glow take her out for a spin around the block