V3.2 build (F2 procharger , 427, etc. ) by 1dirtyz

10 minute(s) of a 341 minute read

got some more done ,,,, and did i mention how much i hate electrical work !

but at least i'm almost done,, i managed to finish the fuse panel , i had it covered in carbon fiber adhesive wrap to give it that " i'm cool cause i use carbon fiber stickers" look :



and how it looks in the car:



also had the instrument cluster guages all wired up a while ago as well as the center dash panel . the center panel now has trans temp guage , boost, and AFR guages, as well as a methanol pump light , trans brake plug port ( stereo jack used to plug in the trans brake switch if i'm running it ) and switches for the methanol injection, trans cooler fan , and 2 step activation.






all i have to do now is connect a few wires here and there and electrical stuff inside the car should be done. which leaves me with connecting the trans temp guage and t-brake wires to inish , as well as running the main + cable to the starter and running the signal wire. also have to install the front radiator brace (took it off to take it to poweder coating but realized later i didn't have time to get it done)


so up next :

- ground stuff
- install dash
- connect wires
- mount radiator and hoses
- starter cable and signal
- install header on driver side
- bolt up seat and brackets and rear seat support
- connect a battery and see if it works

11/6/2010

ok time for some updates :

been working alot on this thing lately, trying to make the race this wednesday .

i finally got most of the wiring done in the car. i just had a small issue with ignition switch but it should not be an issue. also got the dash in place and bolted up , i just need to bolt up the center console now. ( no comments on how clean the car is )



its amazing how much wiring can come out of a car that has been already worked on




also got the kirkey seat bolted in and bolted in to the stock location using racecraft brackets, all i have to do to finish it is install ( and slightly modify) the seat back brace , but i probably will do that when i come back:



furthermore , i got the radiator bracket back from powder coating and i bolted it up along with the hoses, radiator and fan:



and in preperation for the new bumper brace bracket that i will be making later , i installed the frame horn plates ( these plates will be the base that the nose of the car will be bolted to ) and welded some nuts and a spacer so i can bolt the intercooler on to :




and finally got all the intercooler piping and header installed as well as the coils and what not.

so all that is left is bolt up the nose , drop in the batteries, oil change and coolant, check the shifter and fire it up to make sure all is fine and dandy

later down the road there will be some major weight reduction thats going to take place but more on that later evil:

11/14/2010

well its been an interesting weekend

got the car all done and ready , put it on the trailer and headed east

i managed to get a couple of test and tune runs on wednesday after tech inspection ( the race was thursday and friday) and quickly noticed there was a problem :
the car would not hook ! it would jump off the line and unload around the 60ft. mark .
it almost seemed to not want to weight transfer at all!


so i started to mess around with the suspension setup ( it was setup exactly like last time out and it worked pretty well then); i loosened the rear shocks as well as the travel limiter, wich seemed to help a bit. i don't need mention that on the second run the two step i installed kinda worked , the switch got stuck open and i had to stop using it ( i had it connected to the brake light switch - which was cracked ) and mid run the car just shut off ,,,,,,,, forgot to tighten the + battery terminal


well , come qualifying day and after two test runs the last day i decided to drop tire pressure down to 9 psi from 10 to see it it helps, the first run it hooked better ( looking at the log i only gave it 30% throttle in 1st and around 50% in second ! ) but it just broke traction mid second gear wich netted me with a horrible 10 second pass IIRC , which by the way does not get me in the field . i have to add that the weather was humid and there was condensation everywhere , so that could have been a factor.


so in the second ( last ) qualifying attempt i decided to pull some power off the line by cutting some timing and giving it more suspension travel up front ( about 1.5 to 2 " i think). the car still spun in first and second and got a 1.47 60foot ( even thogh it was half throttle through first gaer and second) but i got a 8.8x@161 mph pass !

off to eliminations , first run i decided to pull more timing and remove the travel limiter all together ; it launched ok-ish (1.4x 60 ft) then unloaded and only spun in first gear , second was full throttle ,,,, wich netted a personal best of 8.6@164mph !!

i was seeing somewhere around 26 psi and the AFR was a RICH 10.2 !

i don't know if it's the hoosier slicks i got on there right now or something else that's causing my traction issues ( slicks have less than 10 passes on them but are about a year old), i always used M/T's and like how they hook , i just went with TNTaddict's advise and tried the hoosiers to see if the work .

in any case , there are some chages on the way along with some major weight loss in the process , i'm thinking 8.0's are really close in my future

11/15/2010

Here are some pics i got off another fourm (thanks again shaker :





you can see how the car twists to one side , even though it has a beefy antiroll bar, i'll have to look into that too

11/27/2010

uggggh, totally forgot about the season opener race in qatar this weekend

sure its only an 1/8 mile track but i really can use the track time to dial in the car .

so in my infinate wisdom i decided to remove the whole rear end and torque arm off the car in anticipation for some goodies , so now i have to put those back on , as well as the transbrake solinoid and blower and blower drive. then i have to scale and adjust the swaybar and pinion angle . i also have to fab up some sort of panel under the engine to act like a containment system to prevent oil leaking on the track in case of a "catastrophic engine failure" , and if i have time fix the 2 step switch

forgot to mention that i had to take all the stuff infront of the engine off ( blower , drive, balancer and waterpump) so i can get to and replace the front main seal wich decided to leak .

i wonder what it would do launching off the trans brake at 4k rpm