cls6 track car by curtwill

5 minute(s) of a 48 minute read

using steel flare-flare connectors...car is not DOT but I know they will work fine...integra prop valve should be fine to deal with the front/rear balance...works for them, CL just has bigger brakes front and rear....should require similar balance...actually will probably run ST42 compound in the rear-a little less bite,more progressive. Our civic runs a different compound in the rear to compensate for the lighter back end under braking...we try to do our braking before the corners and roll into the turns otherwise the potential for a snap loose rear end is very possible...harder to do in autocross when the corners are so close together.

we have a Cobra Sebring halo seat in the civic we may be moving over... visibility is not the best but the safety and comfort level is excellent...in our racing it really isn't the issue of the driver to worry about what is behind them and trying to pass...it is more important to race your race and hold your line...it is up to the passing car to ensure they can make the pass safely.....that said we might use the sparco seat that I posted a couple weeks ago...it is lighter..both of us drivers use a hans with a 5 point harness

we don't currently run an adjustable brake bias control...we are allowed with in the rules and they are cheap enough but it isn't something I really played with ....we may be leaving something on the table by not using what is within the rules....I prefer to landmark for braking zones (probably impossible on an autocross but after a few laps on a road course you get to know the zones-and typically they stay the same year after year,weather dependent) and use the throttle to make the turns ...keep in mind that the corners are much more progressive (although faster) than a typical autocross, as you found on your track day.... think that is why you can get away with less spring and sway bar..the weight shift/transfer is not so immediate and the body roll actually helps the tire limitations we have

headers wrapped

3-20-2016

header I picked up on e-bay that I posted up a while ago is on!...it fits for the manual car BUT....very tight...too tight for it to be wrapped and fir without some dinking around....dream fit for these would be-no wrap and if the exhaust studs on the head were 1/4" shorter then the rear header would slide right on....stil that said there is alot of crap on the back side of the engine that makes it 'uncomfortable' to do the install-lots of knicks and cuts reaching down behind the motor.

ground a bit off the mount to make it easier and realistically, if you remove the rear bracket and THEN put the header on and replace the bracket it would be an easier fit.

I removed the front and rear engine dampers and brackets as I am welding the mounts solid, no need for this stuff (will scale them later for an accurate savings).

with this header, I would recommend (I am going to do it)...replace the rear flange on the j-pipe if you arer doing a custom exhaust...it is restrictive as it reduces down the pipe size to bolt up to the factory catalyst...I will be hacking it off and welding a larger flange over the outside diameter of the pipe and then running straight pipe with 2 large glasspacks back-to-back

tighten the j-pipe to header flange bolts a bit per bolt at a time or the flange will sit crooked and not crush the o-ring gasket properly like the picture above (loosened them off and retightened and all was good)

this is all I ground off the mount...not needed if you don't wrap header...all in all $145 well spent I think

8 more pounds that don't need to go back on...about 1 pound of plate and weld to take their place.....also building custom front mount that should be lighter than the factory oil filled thing