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5 minute(s) of a 620 minute read
7-21-2011
herbiehind, Your question about getting it exact is correct. The tracing with the sharpie is pretty much the exact size of the original. Now, since it took grinding to remove it I have to figure for material loss right there. Also, my recreation of the bottom part of the frame can deviate slightly from the original frame. When I scan the card board image, the scanner picks up every single little edge and imperfection on the cardboard. So, instead of going in and editing every little imperfection on the scanned image, I simply use the cad system and follow the outline of the image. Then discard the scanned image and send the nice smooth image I've created along with adding slight bits of material in areas, in this case the top and bottom, to the cutter. Now I've got the new brace along with enough material to grind to the perfect fit. You hit it right on the head.
Thanks again for the restoration compliments, I've got a long ways to go before I get involved in the technical work they do for those cars. I kinda perfer tinkering with no time restraints also.
You both are right, I know there's money to be made if one has the talent and time, yet, I do know one rule of thumb, and it was mentioned.
I do this as a hobby, I know if it was my way of putting food on the table it would become "work". As it is now it is a labor of love. I don't count the dollars, I don't count the hours.
What I do search for on the web is peoples projects that detail the work thay have done. Not just the beginning and the end but the middle as well.
I wasn't looking for projects that are bolts ons, I wanted pictures that detailed the heart of the issue, where the grinder meets the metal, where the welder melts the steel.
Not finding much to fulfill my craving, I started my own, and here it is. I'm sure you can tell, I'm in no hurry, but still moving forward. The rust got uglier as I dove in, but yet I never quivered. I still have further to go, but I know I'll grow to the challenge.
This my friends is my view on my projects. Although the time factor pops into my head, I have to push it out. When focussed on time, it becomes a job, yuck.
I also want to thank everyone. I knew that by showing the detail I have shown to everyone that I'd be bearing my soul. I would be open to anyones opinion as to how I have gone about correcting my rust issues. Everybody has been supportive and curious, thanks again.
I would have not have stood my ground if I did get negative feedback, I'd have simply kept on working and I'd change the title of the thread to "How not to re-restore a 50 Willys truck".
Ok. with that said... I'd like you all to look at my rear end. (I'm joking)
Since the leaf spring desperatly need to be changed, I'm getting the rear axle out and ready for inspection. It's a common performance axle, Dana 60. Yes, before we are done with this project we all will see the inside of it. Not just opening the cover but removing all gears and bearings. Luckly I stopped driving just in time, with no load on the wheels when I spin the front yoke it has a bit of movement from side to side, bad pinion bearing. Here we are, I didn't know the depth of need, it doesn't matter, I can rebuild it, this truck will be better than it was. Somehow for you older folks, do you get the image of the bionic man, Steve Austin???
Looking down this axle tube I see a bunch of brackets and hardware, it's all coming off. We're gonna also make new spring perches with the Torchmate machine also. These old ones look terrible.
Oops, sorry bout that, I'm sticking with the original leaf spring set-up.
Here's the new ones vs. old ones.
Ultimate classic truck right there
Posted by CCmyVW on 12/26/20 @ 4:17:42 PM