My new drag toy. 93 lx coupe carbed LS1/th400. (pics) by JRracing

By diyauto
( 4 )

7 minute(s) of a 190 minute read

1-9-2011

A few more pics of the car now that I have it on jack stands. I pulled the radiator and exhaust off last night. I will get out there today and get the motor ready to be pulled. 

We are putting new bearings and rings in it. The motor has two seasons on it. And the rings we put in it were cheap *** Hasting moly rings. And we set it up pretty loose. It has a lot of blow bye. 


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2-3-2011

Here is a link to Horspwer TV. It is coverage of the Holley LS fest. There is a good clip of my car going down the track on it's way to a 10.09 pass. It is at 3:40.

http://www.powerblocktv.com/video/?e...-20&ep_show=HP


Pics or the paint work on the floor and rear axle. Good ol por 15 in gloss black. I put that **** on everything!


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Once I button up the rear of the car and get the tank back in I will work on mounting the shiftnoid electric shifter my lovely wife got me for Christmas and rpm module. And get the nos mini wired back up. I had some sort of RFI interference going on when trying to activate the juice. But with the motor off it did not do it... So I'm moving that bitch clear out of the way and making all the wires stay clear of any kind of ignition item. I think this will fix the problem.

I was going to pull the engine and put bearings and rings in it but that will have to wait til next season. I have family issues at this time that require more of my time and I went through my budget for the season already lol. Like every year. Oh well. I think the motor will be fine for another year. I just wanted added piece of mind. It is going to see a **** ton of bottles once I get going on the juice lol.


2-20-2011

The 8.8" rear end has been great so far. Taking almost 3" off each side will help some. But the only thing I wish I would have done was the sos axle housing brace. It is a simple setup using a short tube with rod ends on both ends. One end mounts to the pinion area of the housing. It has wide wings made into the casting and it is pretty thick here. In fact. My housing has holes already drilled here were it might of had them at one point maybe.
The other end of the rod goes to a set of tabs welded to the front side of the axle tube. Then line up the holes and drop bolts in them. Easy on, easy off..

I can always go back and put one on next year. But if it lives through this year it should be good. It is going to get pounded with the spray once I get a grip on the tune up. I'm hoping for mid to high 1.2 60'.


Little update.

I have been fitting the rear seat panels to the newly fattened wheel tubs. I had to cut into the rear back wall piece. And the arch of the side's do not match the wolf tubs. I got the back wall and bottom piece fitting decent but I will have to modify the side pieces that cover what little bit you can see of the wheel tubs.

I fixed a leaky fitting on the catch can.

I finished up the fuel lines at the tank and pumps. And got the lines secured.

I got screwed on the drive shaft. The guy cut it and it is about 1/2" to long. It will have to be cut again.

I put the headers and starter and diaper back on. The motor is ready for the intake and hook the fuel and nitrous back up.


Guys, I'm trying to decide what to do about my cooling problem...
I have a stock F body radiator with two perma cool fans and not shroud or air dam. The fans pull air really good. Some times it does great just driving around my area. But in heavy traffic on a really hot day it will get really hot.

It got super hot on the true street drive in BG KY.

I did block off the air around the rad. But I have been told that the air dam will fix this problem. And someone else said to get a lt1 radiator. Said it had more capacity.

Or should I look at getting one made? I can get one made for about $250. I can also buy a aftermarket lt1 for about $130 new.

Or try a air dam for about $25?


2-23-2011

I started fitting the rear seat delete panels back in the car. I had to cut inward about 2" per side to get it to fit in between the wheel wells. I had to cut the bottom piece also. The wheel arch pieces will not work at all. Scott rod fab is making me new ones. 

I had a rear package tray made to get rid of the carpet panel. I got it fitted and in place also.


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Comments

Great build!

Posted by Diggymart on 2/1/21 @ 1:15:12 AM