More GTO look, EFI, AMG supercharger, Supertrapps and Magnaflows by bert308

11 minute(s) of a 114 minute read

I made new mounting brackets for the handbrake calipers that move the caliper a little higher so the cable runs a little more like original. Also I got cast metal guide wheels instead of the plastic ones. And I found proper shorter bolts...(the original ones don't have enough thread to shorten them)

I found a drive pulley for the supercharger. It is from a 540-740-840 BMW and has 7 grooves, the SC has a pulley with 8 grooves but I couldn't find an 8 groove pulley.

Then I had to design an adapter to mount the pulley to the crank harmonic balancer.

A local machinist made it for me, he changed the design a little to ease manufacturing. I will fit dowel pins at the crank side to prevent slipping.

I thought I might get the BMW idler pulley as well, fair price at 10 Euro.
And ordered a 7 rib belt of correct length.

Cut out the original rear quarter window surround and made a new one that brings the window out a bit. I can use the original glass window though the shape is now not entirely correct.

Not really happy with the result, I think I will glue the glass in and make a new aluminium surround instead of the rubber.

I did research what injectors I would need and found Bosch red top nr 0280150431 would be OK, they flow 350 cc/min at 3 bar and are used on Saabs Turbo 2.0 and 2.3 were they are good for 200+ HP in the 4 cilinder. I got 2 sets of 4 removed from Saabs.

Bought from Ebay a new little ultrasonic cleaner for only 5 euro (6 euro for shipping) and cleaned the injectors.

Testing the injectors. I used an easy bleed brake bleeder kit for this. The bottle is filled with fuel and pressurized through the valve of an inflated tire. Works great but one injector wasn't spraying and shutting off properly so I ordered 2 more from a specialized Saab wrecking place.

The carb cleaner I used in the ultrasonic cleaner wasn't to kind for the black paint on the injectors (and the plastic lid from the cleaner). Got new caps, filters and O-rings.

I ordered new 60 mm springs because I found the Superformance set (though stiffer than original) still a bit to soft, the Koni shocks can handle much more. These are 12 inch 250 rated rear and 10 inch 300 rated front.

I converted the spring platforms on the shock and made the front ones height adjustable by using M20 nuts and threaded rod. I won't adjust them by threading in or out though, but my making a rod of the correct length that is fully engaged in the nuts.

I still found the rear springs to soft because when the car is pushed down it raises back only slowly, very scientific. So I ordered 350 rated springs and these are already installed and now when pushed down the car raises back quicly to original height but not passing the original height and swing back.

There are cheap sets of height adjustable coil over shocks like QA-1 but I have more confidence in the Konis. A good set of shocks will cost more than 2000, maybe in a year or 2 when my finances are recovered. By the way, Koni fired 320 of it's 480 employees recently, get those original shocks while you can!

Completed the front A-arms. I thought I was clever and wanted to mount the bushes while the arm was still warm from welding, mistake, it was to hot smell of burning rubber. Waiting for 2 more bushes now so I can finally mount the suspension definitive. Also all the bushes still need the spotweld to fix them in place.

I changed my mind again, like many times during this project. I decided to remove the brake pressure difference warning device and route the lines straight from master to caliper, the master cilinder I have now has 3 outlets were the original has only 2. The pressure difference device is not a pressure limiter/brake bias valve for the rear brakes, this car didn't have a brake bias valve installed. The 308GT4 should have one according to the workshop manual. Now with the bigger brakes I have I thought it would be wise to install one and I ordered one from www.compbrake.co.uk . I checked how the valve was build up and thought the lower port would be the inlet. I was wrong though and in the picture it is connected the wrong way. The knob can be reached through the battery cover.

I used the original brakeline that goes from front to back and made all the others new from cunnifer (copper/nickel) but felt a little unconfident. The original steel line I had to straighten in some places and bent in others and you can bent them only like 5 times before they break and it is 30 years old. And though cunnifer is good, steel is better but to tough to make flares with the simple tool I have. Then I found a german ebay seller that sells ready made steel lines in a lot of lengths and I ordered all the lines I need, 14, that includes the 4 lines on each caliper that connect the caliper halves and the 4 short lines from flex line to caliper. When they arrive I can finally fill and bleed the brake system. I ordered a new vacuum servo hose from superformance but unfortunately they don't sell these anymore.

With the new vents in the front hood there would be water leaks to the battery so I made a new aluminium front trunk tray. This gives also more room for airflow at the back of the radiator

But changed my mind again, I want to be able to carry a spare wheel sometime maybe for a long trip so I just converted the original tray. For a spare to insert the alu part needs to be unbolted though.

I am planning the side air inlets on the car to bring air to the intercoolers so the original oilcooler would be sitting there without much air flowing to it. I bought an aftermarket oil cooler with the intention to mount it to the rear of the car behind the exhaust cans, there is room now with the 2 smaller cans on top of each other.

Whenever I have some spare time I am straightening the body, a lot of hard work sanding by hand. The black is guide paint.

I have some holidays soon and hope to have the car painted by week 34. The engine back in, rewiring and trying to get this thing to run.

I have some items for sale:
Bosch fuel distributer, warm up regulator.
A set of 8 new unused Bosch injectors 0-280-150-991 rated 250 cc/min they are good for over 300 HP (Pizzaman? hehe) $125.
A set of 8 Bosch Kjet injectors the new messing design only driven 3000 KM and ultrasonic cleaned, $100.
Superformance uprated 25% stiffer springs, they were mounted and removed but not driven, the coating is damaged here and there, $250.
4 engine mounts, 3 are hard, 1 is softer, $40 a piece for the good ones the other is free is you buy 3 good ones.