1966 404 Coupé Injection Restoration

5 minute(s) of a 255 minute read

The paint has all been stripped from the shell now and the car is back at Coachwerks in Victoria.  Still waiting for the spare panels and opening panels to come back.  Today it was sunny here so it was a perfect day to move a bare metal shell the 22 km from blasting shop to the restoration shop!

Well the blue thing I can get over, it's not like we will be driving our cars together much if at all.  The light grey seats would be offset with  dark blue carpets.  Rather than cloth I would go for leather (not OE for a Coupe but what the hey).  Black vinyl seats were also available with any Coupe but a dark interior with a dark exterior doesn't do it for me, even black leather.  No matter what the seating colour, the dash pads, door cappings etc were all black.

They used colours that were specific to the 404C models, all (other than Noir 1000) of which were different from those available on other 404s.

1962-1966: White Saratoga, then White Arosa 1132; Black 1000; Dark Grey 1055; Dark Blue 1057 on Coupés.

1967-1969: White Arosa 1132, Light Grey Metallic 1162, Light Blue Metallic 1158, Black 1000

I get to choose a colour from the 1962-1966 list.

12-22-2016

Coachwerks recommended a dark colour and the one he mentioned was dark grey, but that's because a '66 911 with immaculately applied grey paint was in the other room...but that car has red leather interior but that's not a 404 interior colour.

I prefer the blue and so does Sandy.  But there is time yet, still to vacillate.

12-27-2016

I have been continuing to clean up the suspension as a priority, so the completed shell can be mounted on it just before the car is returned to me early in 2017 (spring?).  Bear in mind that the car only has 82,000 miles on it from new.

Summary:

• The struts will have new shocks installed (OE Peugeot) and I will have this work done by a motorcycle guy who does this in a big way.
• Both struts will be cleaned to the bare metal and the cast iron parts at the base and at the spring mount coated with Zinga under the satin black topcoat.  The right one is primed already.  I checked the track arm position with my factory tool and it's fine.
• Both front springs are in good condition but need some touch-ups with black paint. I will do that by hand to keep the mostly intact factory paint.
• The upper shock mounts are crap and I have two nearly new ones to use that I have had for decades, with another few decades of life left in them.
• The steering swivel needle bearings and races will be replaced, as will the grease seals.
• New shock bellows, new front wheel bearings will be used.
• Suspension arms are iron - the transverse ones were in good condition but needed a serious de-rusting and new bushings.  They're both cleaned and primed, and once painted, will have the new bushings pressed into place.
• The front diagonal suspension arms are also iron and the first one I took off stripped its threading so I had to order two new ones from Germany.  They're en route right now and will be used in reassembly.  The other original diagonal arm came off intact and I will keep it as a spare.
• The cast iron front crossmember and related cast suspension mounts will be sandblasted and powder coated.
• The steering rack will have new dampers and springs fitted, if needed.
• The rear springs are heavily surface rusted so they will be sandblasted and powder coated black.
• The Panhard rod is also heavily corroded and needs new bushings so it will be blasted and coated, new bushings pressed in.
• The rear shock absorbers are original but seem OK.  They have been primed and are ready for a top coat.  If they're not working properly, they are easy to change.
• The torque tube will be refinished in dark grey after derusting.
• The aluminum rear axle will not be dismantled at this time but will be opened up for a cleaning.  I have new worm and wheel, bearings, oil seals and more, but it seems to be in good condition so I will save those parts for later use.